no honeycomb
no honeycomb
ok guys, i thought to post it here. im tuned on stock ecu with honeycomb on it
however, it was sucked and destroyed by too much boost so, decided removed it.
now, my car feels more responsive but afr more erradic on normal driving.
wot still 11.2, idle unchange.
Is this safe? im planning drag race soon but im unsure if its safe.
however, it was sucked and destroyed by too much boost so, decided removed it.
now, my car feels more responsive but afr more erradic on normal driving.
wot still 11.2, idle unchange.
Is this safe? im planning drag race soon but im unsure if its safe.
From someone that actually has experience with this, I have been without mine for almost a year with no issues. Lots of people run without them, as long as you make sure nothing changed in the tune your fine.
I did not mention that we have dynotested with and without the honeycomb complete with wideband and evoscan datalogging. Our recommendation was based on our professional testing.
Ok now were talking, I have yet to hear anyone actually do this. So your results were not repeatable? My car runs very consistent, on pump and e85. What all changed during the testing?
My idle is actually pretty good, considering I also have kelford 272's and pte 1200's. Every car is different though. Im happy with it. Your WOT pulls were consistent though?
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The honeycomb is intended to reduce turbulence in the air as it goes across the air flow sensor. With the honeycomb removed, results may vary. It might give you an extra .5 HP but it might also make the car idle rough. It probably won't break anything if that's what you're asking.
Just a thought, but the honeycomb in the MAF I assume is what your talking about, and I don't doubt that you may have ran clean for a year. The honeycomb is in there for vilocity flow, or organization like windtunnel aerodynamic type flow. To maximize mixture or account for all air. With out the honecomb, what does this do to the MAF?
Would you not get the same results by removing the MAF and going to the conversion I have seen posted here somewhere?
Not something I am thinking about doing, but still none the less a thought is a thought, and you think it works, but TTP shows real data that is inconsistant, what is the downsides to this MOD or removal?
Thanks in advance.
EDIT:
...lol, damn ninja post answered the question for me, thanks EVO_Someday.
TTP your conclusion or results?
Would you not get the same results by removing the MAF and going to the conversion I have seen posted here somewhere?
Not something I am thinking about doing, but still none the less a thought is a thought, and you think it works, but TTP shows real data that is inconsistant, what is the downsides to this MOD or removal?
Thanks in advance.
EDIT:
The honeycomb is intended to reduce turbulence in the air as it goes across the air flow sensor. With the honeycomb removed, results may vary. It might give you an extra .5 HP but it might also make the car idle rough. It probably won't break anything if that's what you're asking.
TTP your conclusion or results?
Last edited by Raceghost; Sep 30, 2009 at 08:49 PM.
The honeycomb is intended to reduce turbulence in the air as it goes across the air flow sensor. With the honeycomb removed, results may vary. It might give you an extra .5 HP but it might also make the car idle rough. It probably won't break anything if that's what you're asking.
.i swear car is more responsive especially where the lag is.
EDIT:
I have had mine out for about 5 months or so.... I have had ZERO issues... I watch my wide-band, and log almost every time I take my car out.... NO ISSUES. I have beat on my car heavily, on the road, in the real world, under real driving conditions, no issues! I couldn't even show you in my logs when I took it out. OH RIGHT... I can tell you when I took it out.... ON MY WEDDING DAY on my way to my wedding cause it sucked through, and the car ran like absolute dog crap!
I dont know, and cant show you dyno graphs of anything, but I can tell you my a/f has been consistent as ever, my idle is always spot on, my cruising is spot on, and my butt dyno felt no change!
I have had mine out for about 5 months or so.... I have had ZERO issues... I watch my wide-band, and log almost every time I take my car out.... NO ISSUES. I have beat on my car heavily, on the road, in the real world, under real driving conditions, no issues! I couldn't even show you in my logs when I took it out. OH RIGHT... I can tell you when I took it out.... ON MY WEDDING DAY on my way to my wedding cause it sucked through, and the car ran like absolute dog crap!
I dont know, and cant show you dyno graphs of anything, but I can tell you my a/f has been consistent as ever, my idle is always spot on, my cruising is spot on, and my butt dyno felt no change!
Last edited by denver; Oct 2, 2009 at 09:19 AM.
I'm glad it's worked out for you; folks have been doing this for a long time without seriously adverse effects, so that's not too surprising. But the honeycombs are there for the same reason the OEM airbox plenum is there: provide consistent, repeatable airflow across the sensor. When you change those things, the repeatability of the sensor's readings can go right out the window, which can make your low fuel trim basically useless in extreme cases.
Hence, it's just a small warning that lower-airflow conditions (idle, mid-shift, possibly cruising) may give inconsistent results. Don't take it as a personal affront, and please don't mock people for posting testing results ("HAHAHA ooooook" doesn't constitute a rational critique), or they simply won't post it anymore, and then we're back to people playing secret-squirrel with useful information. Great for your ego, bad for everyone else.
(Personally, I like fixing the problem by removing the MAF entirely, but that's just me.
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