I think we've hijacked this guy's thread long enough lol.

Now this OT convo is ON TOPIC

Getting the right pads on the track has been a serious point of frustration to me. Only the Hawk Blues so far have had adequate stopping power without fade. With everything else it seems like I'm braking WAY before everyone else, and getting long pedals in the process. The best gripping tires I've run on the track at PIR (Portland International Raceway) are Falken RT-615's so they really shouldn't be too much for Hawk Blues to cope with. After all, they are a sprint pad. Yet they were totally gone, along with my rotors, after 1 event. I really want to try the Pagid RS29's as soon as they are available from somewhere. They are supposed to be long-lasting and rotor friendly...

I agree Ate is crap, I ran it once and holy squishy boiling fluid! RBF600 is great though, especially w/ the brake air guides.

As for the Toyos, after hearing how well they are holding up and even streetable (!) I really want a set. I wish they weren't on backorder for the usual outlets around here.

And as for not using the brake pedal effectively, that is quite possible. I'm hard on the brakes at the track, but I'm not enducing ABS so obviously not THAT hard...any suggestions?

Oh yeah, I'm not an Auto-x-er, not really my bag. I did a few but I don't plan on doing any more. I even tried Rally-X once. Fun but our suspension isn't really for offroading...and not much on-track time compared to chasing cones and getting dirty as cars drive by...

 

see, thats the thing, i've boiled and boiled til the cows come home.

Had a guy pyro my calipers after coming off, 640 in the pass front, 550 driver front.

that'll boil anything under the sun

However, i never lost brake feel or control, thats the thing. I'd roasted pads before in my rsx, and i know what a mushy pedal is, but i've never had that in the evo.

Gotta get on them quick and hard, and bleed the speed, then as it gets closer, you're letting up on the pressure, transitioning.

 

to quantify some of my suggestions... i was over-heating the oem replacement rotors from rotorpros.

Was told by robi and nils that the PF front rotors would be a better fit for me. They are, they work great.

I fried my ccr pads, again, one suggestion was the pf 97 pads. Both of those guys have done enough tracking to know what works, and what doesn't. Their opinion is worth a good bit, and when you're looking for some better advice, knowledgeable people are helpful

 

Portland shouldn't be that hard on brakes.
Try the ferodo 3000 or the Hawk 14, or 10. Last year I ran about 6 events, between portland seattle and bremerton with the 3000 and they were still half pad when I changed them. (watch out for rotor wear)
I was over braking before the corners, but it kept the brakes cooler as I would get the braking done and get off them. I believe the over heating comes from dragging the brakes though the corner or holding moderate braking instead of really getting on them and then off.
If you do it right you get real big in the rear view mirrow of the car in front of you, and that makes a big impression on them when they get out on the passing zone.

 

I run PFC 97s with Ate Blue on RA1s with the stock rotors and calipers. The brakes do get hot in a 30 minute session. After the first track day or two I had brownbos, now they are more like blackbos. If I'm gentle on them I can get them to last a whole session without the pedal getting soft. If I trail brake a lot or really get on the brakes hard the fluid will boil. At least now I know, more or less, where the boiling point is. I'm going to upgrade to Stop Techs when my rotors wear. I drove the black time attack car that took second at Buttonwillow ( http://superstreetonline.com/eventco...11_timeattack/ ). It had a full interior, sunroof and that thing slowed down in a hurry with the Stop Tech big brake kit. The difference between those and the stockers was huge.

The Evo is a relatively heavy car. Add a passenger and after 30 minutes on the track you're asking a lot of the little Brembos.

 

hmm.. interesting. pad fade with the 97's, or just boiled fluid?

Any ducting, or cooling?

 

Also, in terms of wear... I get about 6-8 track days out of a set of pads and about the same with RA1s. I think wear has a lot to do with the driver and track. I've seen beginners rip through RA1s in a day or two from over-driving them.

 

Well I have some Pagid RS14's for the next track day, I wonder if I can get more than a day out of THESE...

 

I've faded 97's as well, with Motul 600, PF 2piece rotors, 255 RA1s and 320 mustang dyno whp.

Funny thing is, I moved to the PM MAX900 and didn't fade them once at the same track. They must fit my braking style more or something.

The true test will be this week at buttonwillow in 95F temps.

 

suggestion for raybestoes ST43s still stands, i know, i didn't beleive these were any good either, my buddy in a 350z tried them and were both converts.

These are simply amazing, great stopping power and won't overheat easily. After 4 days at the track, they barely seem to have decreased in thickness.

Also Motul RBF 600 is the only way to go. Im seriously considering brake ducts at this point too, just for the added safety and to be nicer on my rotors.

-heeltoer

 

Yea I have heard good things about them as well.

That I have a hard time believing. I usually go through almost half the front pads at an event, although with almost 200 on track miles.

Nice to your rotors? I don't know what you're talking about.

 

please note i said "nicer" not nice

went to the garage to recheck thickness since i had em off. Ok so they have decreased in thinkness but they have at least 3/4 thickness left in them after 4 hard TT competing days. There are some downsides like a ton of noise (stock brake shims and grease used, plus proper breakin) and increased rotor wear (this is why i use cheapo ebay blanks), but they stop good and last long, what more can you ask for.

 

The noise I could care less about since I use normal pads for the street. I'll check them out next set. How much do they go for?

 

259 f
129 r
this is where i got mine
http://www.livermoreperformance.com/raybestos.html

 

Wow never thought I would see $259 for an axle full of Raybestos pads, but hey if it works it works. Better than $259 for Hawk Blue racing pads that last one day lol.