I have come off the track with the rotors smoking before, but I never had a pyro. I kinda thought 600 wasn't bad, but I've never had a warping problem before on track. After looking at rotor temp paint it became obvious that heat wasn't the problem - or at least excessive heat anyway.

 

well, if your calipers are 600, you've boiled your fluid, and thats a problem.

I regularly boil it, but i don't even seem to notice it

 

I would bet money that it's a problem with pad deposits. Try getting the rotors shaved the _bare_ minimum and/or try a new compound. Cooling isn't necessarily an issue if you're still within the range of the pad.

When I used to only have the one car for doing track events, I ended up changing pads _and_ rotors between events because the two sets of pads didn't like each other and would always ruin the rotors.

 

The calipers aren't 600, the rotors were. Temp paint goes to double that, so it's not the heat. If it were pad deposits they should shake all the time, and I've been able to drive through pad deposit problems in the past. This just got worse the more I drove, and once things cooled down I had no more vibration (and still don't).

 

gotcha, sorry, misunderstood

 

Bump

My pedal gets mushy during every lapping day. A quick bleed normally corrects the problem but that must mean the calipers are getting too hot. At what temp does the nice red color turn to brown?

 

Mushy brake pedal = overheating pads and/or boiling fluid. Use Motul RBF600 for track days. People swear by Ate Super Blue but that stuff boiled pretty much instantly for me and was like tar trying to bleed it out afterwards. Use at a minimum something like Ferodo DS2500's although I even have to baby those. It's best to use a proper race pad on the track if you are going to push at all. The cooling ducts work well too.

 

I'm using Carbotech XP10 pads ....they seem to be great.... but I hate not having a pedal after a few aggressive laps.

 

Change your fluid to something high temp. Motul is good, but $$$. Ate Blue is very good (I run it in my racecar to good effect), and much more reasonably priced. With the pad you're running, you should be okay once you deal with boiling the fluid.

 

What kind of fluid?

Also, it POSSIBLY could be air bubbles in your ABS system. I had that problem when a shop TOTALLY drained all my fluid before putting new fluid in, and it took bleeding it 4 times to get ride of the air bubbles after that. Every time I activated ABS, mushy pedal again, re-bleed. Never bleed your system all the way dry.

 

Well the vibration started to come back during street driving, so I pulled the rotors and had them turned. It took 4 passes to get them true again - I guess you could call that warped!! So I'll try the stockers again at Beaverun in two weeks, taking my old set of stockers as a backup.

Does anyone have any input on other cooling options beside the overpriced Mitsu kit and the expensive and somewhat cumbersome Forge kit? I want something I can install and not have to worry about.

 

I would say go for the Mitsu kit as it is relatively cheap compared to the Forge kit. I had the Forge kit and the tubing made my car a PITA to work on. I always worried that the tubing would rub against my wheels or get snagged on something. In the end, I decided simplicity was better for me.