I started out thinking this was just an alignment screw up. One day at the track I noticed the rear had very strange characteristics during hard braking and right turns. After 2 sessions I corded the outside of a new RA1 on my back driver side tire. Knowing something was out of whack I peak underneath and 'eyeball' the camber being what looks positive.

I jacked up the car and cranked on the camber adjustment bolt until that rear wheel kicked out. I know the toe was probably screwed at that point, but you just can't run with that kind of camber without dropping serious coin on tire replacement. I used a Sharpie to mark my setting on the adjustment bolt. By the end of the day it had not moved. Problem solved right...nope.

After getting back that weekend I had my alignment guy adjust everything and make sure all bolts were torqued down properly. I marked the settings again with a marker just in case.

Last night (two weeks later), I was installing my new rear sway and noticed the markings had slipped a little. My marks have separated by 1/16", not much, but it has moved. I grabbed my torque wrench and verified it was torqued to a minimum of 65 ft-lbs.

I'm on stock suspension with Espelir GT springs and using -2 camber in the rear with 0 toe.

Any ideas to make this thing stay put?

 

I have wondered the same thing. For the longest time I thought, "that drivers rear has WAY more camber than the passenger rear"? But I wasn't really sure.

When I finally got around to measuring it I was off by a full degree. I know that they were correct and equal after the alignment (long ago) and overtime it re-aligned itself.

 

Mine is going from negative to positive, but movement is movement.

 

Hmm, I'll have to check mine to see if it has moved any. I haven't noticed any strange handling feel though. Are the lock washers still there? If so, perhaps they've flattened out? That can happen if the are tightened too much or too many times.

 

This guy?

 

Yep. If they flatten out, the ends won't dig into the nut or the flat washer behind it and the nut can loosen up. It's a stretch, but you never know...

 

I had this problem before. The camber bolts have stretched or started to strip threads. In my case, it was because the jack-**** alignment tech used a airgun to tighten down the camber bolts

The only thing to do is replace all of them (camber and toe), The total cost should be under $30 from mitsubishiparts.com, and then NEVER let the alignment shop over torque those bolts.

 

same thing happened to me- the camber adjustment bolt stripped. these bolts are quite soft. when i called san rafael mitsu to order a replacement, the parts guy told me it's very common and as a result they always keep them in stock. BTW, my local mitsu dealer, brad benson in NJ, didn't even know what a camber adjustment bolt was, and couldn't figure out how to order the part even when i brought the stripped bolt in for them to reference. sadly his dealership is no better than he was as a football player...

 

Yup, same here. Stripped nut. I had really bad tire wear and the reason was because the nut caused the alignment to slip.

Like people above said, its pretty common. I have ordered a couple just in case if it happens again.

 

+1

 

Wow, i'll have to keep a look on that..
thanks for the heads up everyone onthe striped nuts/bolts...

 

whoa!!time to buy an extra set just in case.

 

Good info here ...

 

Hi All,
If you want to fix this problem for good, here's a solution. Get some size big 12 mm fender washers, 7/16's also work, and cut the edges so they fit in the camber adjustment slots. Make up a number of different sets with the center hole at different offsets. Bolt them in place with a 4" grade 8.8 M12 bolt and nut with lock washer and problem solved.
Cheers,