Trailer Tie Down Locations
I just drove 12 hours with the body strapped down and then 12 hours back with the straps through the wheels.
In my experience it was better strapped to the wheels. With it strapped to the wheels the straps stayed tight and when the trailer took a bump the car damped the trailer. Things where more in control.
I think when you strap to the sprung weight of the car all of the weight and energy is transfered to the springs and shocks of the trailer, therefore putting more stress. Also as the car wants to bounce as well the straps don't stay taut and slowly loosen. We stopped every 150 miles or so and the straps were not rock solid, however when we strapped the wheels, it stayed taut for the entire trip and the trailer was easier to drive.
In your case since the angles of the straps are so acute, I don't think you would have the same problem, try the wheels or the A-Arms next time and let us know.
In my experience it was better strapped to the wheels. With it strapped to the wheels the straps stayed tight and when the trailer took a bump the car damped the trailer. Things where more in control.
I think when you strap to the sprung weight of the car all of the weight and energy is transfered to the springs and shocks of the trailer, therefore putting more stress. Also as the car wants to bounce as well the straps don't stay taut and slowly loosen. We stopped every 150 miles or so and the straps were not rock solid, however when we strapped the wheels, it stayed taut for the entire trip and the trailer was easier to drive.
In your case since the angles of the straps are so acute, I don't think you would have the same problem, try the wheels or the A-Arms next time and let us know.
Corey #89 STU
Our FSAE teams drives cross country at least twice a year with our open wheel car. After many blown shocks, we found the only way to keep the suspension in good order for a long trip is to first put the car on blocks then strap it down. You don't actually have to get it all the way up in air, but high enough that there's no travel.
EDIT: I should probably add that simple physics will tell you that the ride on a trailer is not going to be signficantly worse than the road it's on. If your cars suspension is cable of handing regular street driving, then there's probably no harm in just strapping it down by the chassis. We learned the hard way that a even a single speed bump can ruin a set of dedicated race dampers.
d
EDIT: I should probably add that simple physics will tell you that the ride on a trailer is not going to be signficantly worse than the road it's on. If your cars suspension is cable of handing regular street driving, then there's probably no harm in just strapping it down by the chassis. We learned the hard way that a even a single speed bump can ruin a set of dedicated race dampers.
d
Last edited by donour; Feb 21, 2007 at 10:47 AM.
Not trying to argue or anything, but I found the exact opposite to be true. When I let the car's suspension work it always made the trailer feel disconnected with the tow vehicle. With the car ratcheted down directly to the trailer it felt way better. Must just be a preferance thing.
Corey #89 STU
Corey #89 STU
Dave
As far as the RE-01Rs, I'm really liking them so far. Comparing them vs the Advans, the cost savings not withstanding, the Bridgestones are still better.
Back on topic, I towed again this weekend and I experimented a bit with trying to use the rear tie down holes. I have come to the conclusion that A: you can't cross them because of the fuel/brake lines on the driver's side of a IX and B: the rear tires are in the way to properly strap down going straight back with the location of my d-rings on my trailer. Basically, I'm going to continue to use the axle straps over the rear sub-frame.
Also, I agree with Corey and Dave. I like the "feel" of the car's movement on the back of the trailer.
Last edited by McCall; Apr 10, 2007 at 09:58 AM.
Sorry for the bump,
http://www.mrproducts.com/ doesn't seem to have those t-hooks on their website. Did you guys call them directly?
http://www.mrproducts.com/ doesn't seem to have those t-hooks on their website. Did you guys call them directly?
Sorry for the bump,
http://www.mrproducts.com/ doesn't seem to have those t-hooks on their website. Did you guys call them directly?
http://www.mrproducts.com/ doesn't seem to have those t-hooks on their website. Did you guys call them directly?
http://www.bimmerhaus.com/tech/thook.html
Sorry for the bump,
http://www.mrproducts.com/ doesn't seem to have those t-hooks on their website. Did you guys call them directly?
http://www.mrproducts.com/ doesn't seem to have those t-hooks on their website. Did you guys call them directly?
Bob Tunnel @ bimmerhaus also sells t-hooks.
http://www.bimmerhaus.com/tech/thook.html
http://www.bimmerhaus.com/tech/thook.html
"The BMW Factory E36 Towing Manual specifies only one way to secure an E36 car to a flatbed truck or trailer -- by using something called a T-Hook.
Four T-hooks are inserted into a special access holes built into the E36 chassis and tie-down straps or chains fastened to the T-Hooks are used to secure the chassis to the flatbed or trailer. This is the best method for securing your car because:
~ suspension movement is limited, saving wear and tear on suspension components and providing a more stable load,
~ it is the only method approved by BMW, and
~ it is the quickest, cleanest, and easiest method by far!"
So if this tie down procedure is specified by the engineers at BMW, you would have to think its the best way to strap down an Evo as well. Of course if I could just figure out how to use t-hooks in the rear on my IX I would be set.
could you post the points in front and especially rear that these t-hooks go into?
Also, someone posted that a good way is to strap the wheels down. Could I see a picture of this as well?
I am a n00b to towing and plan to buy a trailer in 2 weeks and would like to learn as much as I can.
Also, someone posted that a good way is to strap the wheels down. Could I see a picture of this as well?
I am a n00b to towing and plan to buy a trailer in 2 weeks and would like to learn as much as I can.
+1 for pics of a "t-hook" setup for all 4 corners on an Evo.
I also agree that it's better to do the chasis rather then the wheels because it's a LOT easier to mess up the alignment via the wheels then it is via the arms.
I also agree that it's better to do the chasis rather then the wheels because it's a LOT easier to mess up the alignment via the wheels then it is via the arms.
Last edited by Balrok; Oct 13, 2008 at 10:38 AM.
if you mess up the alignment by simply holding the car down... I'd be scared to drive the thing on track.
Only if the lock nuts aren't tight or something would it "tweak" the alignment.
Only if the lock nuts aren't tight or something would it "tweak" the alignment.