lots of advice here. i'll give just one in addition to what everyone said: dial in more neg camber in the front.

i track PR quite a bit from porsche's, bmw's, evo... and that track is just notorious for eating up tires and brakes. that damn turn 3b is a killer on the right front tire. make sure you swap the front tires side to side (if you can).

better yet, just take a trip down to PIR and your tires will look like new after a full track day... and you'll have more fun!

 

With the RA-1, 44 hot is way too high. You should be shooting for hot pressure around 37. Run 3-4 lbs higher in the rear.

 

Are you running the 255 on stock rim?.. if so .. thats a big nono.. you would get faster times with a 245 just due to the sidewall stiffness...

and yes.. the whiteline kit worked wonders on my car.. i also have Deck ball bearing Bushings for the front control arms.. total solid feeling front..

 

I'll second this one. I just did a day of testing on these tires and ended up running 24psi front / 28psi rear (cold pressures). They ended up hitting 35 psi hot, which was just about perfect. I was all over the map with pressures before settling on that, so this isn't just conjecture.

As for the other feedback, I'll second the comments on the front sway bar. Not many people do this, but I did a binch of digging and Ralliart recommends a 26mm front / 24mm rear bar for racing. I'm currently running the WORKS rear bar, but I'm struggling with pretty terrible understeer as well so they are installing the front sway bar as well this week. I'll post my impressions as soon as we have it on the car.

 

Tried them out today at Road Atlanta, I ended up with 25 fr and 28 rear cold to get to 37 fr hot so it sounds like we all agree on where to start out. I may run hoosiers tomorrow for the race though, Im still debating
Marty

 

 

Are you running the rear bump-steer correction kit? That will help. More info in this thread: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=263315

l8r)

 

This thread has some of the most ridiculous types of advice.

 

no kidding. Some of it is pretty good, but only one other person has suggested modifying the driver first before throwing more parts on the car.

Try braking a little earlier and a lot harder so you can properly accelerate out of the corner. then monitor your tire temps like wtz suggests and go from there.

 

I agree: brake harder to get the nose down (more grip), initiate the turn while the front suspension is loaded, then accelerate out. This should help the car rotate much better.

 

Well you can't say way too high. Perhaps for your car it is. For me, in order to not totally ruin the outside of the fronts, I have to run the tire this high - hence the title of this thread - 'comabting understeer'

 

I have been thinking a lot about my driving and how driving the evo is much more like a FWD than a RWD car. My last track day I concentrated on slightly slower turn-in, REALY smooth transition off the brakes into the turn, and easier throttle to not unload the front so much. That seemed to work - 1:36 at Pacific Raceways

Marek

 

There are both good and bad advice ... but majority are good, you just have to know who to listen to.

 

roll axis

 

Coilovers would help a bit, certainly over springs.