Another alternative is the cusco adj frt bar end link mount. I believe it may be legal for stock. I think it can go down to around 85% and up to 113% of stock stiffness. For a pic see the cusco Evo topic in the Evo General forum.

 

I know a front sway bar can be changed, but I'm not sure about the end links. I'll check the rule book this weekend when I pick it up from a friend.

It looks like a nice piece and would probably work with the stock swaybar. The problem is I don't see it for sale anywhere. Vivid only list the sway bar. Maybe the sway bar comes with these. I emailed Adam at Z1. Maybe he can get them.

 

Here's another really nice pic of them. It definitely looks like you can buy them seperatey.

 

SS RX7 r2, from the email I exchanged with Doug Gill, tech guy at the SCCA, "The Winch" is just going to have to suck it up and try to use his big boy voice when congratulating the Evo that beats him.

 

Hmmm. I don't autocross at all anymore, and wasn't that experienced in the genre to begin with. I stick purely to road courses (sucks though because it is harder on the car, and a lot more expensive). I haven't had any alignment issues that some have been complaining about, although it is still at the factory settings. Maybe the push you all are experiencing is speed related? I know it doesn't make a lot of sense, but I can say that I have had absolutely no problems getting the rear to come around. I was used to driving RWD cars (I had a 96 SS camaro, which anybody knows had no problems rotating) before the EVO, but still have no problems. I have found it easy to step it out both with lift throttle as well as left foot braking. I wish I had some empirical data to offer. If it helps, I haven't upgraded the sway bars or added coilovers yet, but I have cusco front/rear strut bars, a cusco rear trunk brace, and the trunk has been completely stripped of everything (spare, tools/jack, panels/carpeting). Hope this helps? I dunno, I'd like to hear more from you guys who are plowing.

 

Oh, I forgot, I'm running TE37's 18x8.5 w/G-force KD's 245/40.

 

I autoXed last weekend, first autoX after my four-wheel alignment with maximum negative front camber... Otherwise stock.

I got three dry runs and two wet runs. In the dry, the car rotated nicely into corners, but pushed on exit. I suspect that on entry, the weight transfers forward, and the increased front camber helps turn-in a bit. On exit, the weight transfers rearward, and I'm still running toe-in at the back, so the rear pushes in hard -- no looseness at all. The car felt well balanced in constant-speed "slalom" sections.

In the wet, the car was comfortably loose -- very easy to induce and control four wheel drifts. I think my wet times were faster than my dry times, although that probably had more to do with the fact that in the wet, I just left the car in second gear, while in the dry, I was going back and forth between 1st and 2nd several times per run (which was probably not the best strategy).

If I have time, I'll try going to neutral toe on the rears for the next autoX.

 

I'm starting to think that might be partially from driver error (i.e. too fast corner entry speed). After I put suspension on my Lancer, it started pushing in all the hairpins (yeah, the sweepers and slaloms were amazingly better, though), but I found my lap times were about the same, so I think the car's new capabilities have me going too bold into the sharper corners. I have an event this weekend, and I'm gonna try slightly slower entry speeds and more gas coming out of it. Let me know if you want to hear the results.

edit: also, if your rear sway bar is adjustable, tighten that sucker up, it'll bring the tail around easier. Maybe add a rear strut bar??? And what about throttle steer? Too many possibilities.

 

I think you're right mostly. I took the cat to a faster course today and got 8 runs in. The car was spectacular. I started out doing the same as last week and I was carrying too much speed into the corners and the times were just ok. I then slowed down on the corner entry to apply the "point and shoot" method and the car was amazing. I was still on stock street tires and I was within 1.5 seconds of the fastest cars on race tires. Those cars were modded M3s with full coilovers and some pretty fast F-Bodys and s2000s. I couldn't believe the times the car was making. I had a really good run going, but spun out. That was was about .5 seconds faster than my best. This car becomes easier to driver the longer I am behind the wheel.

My braking was another problem. I wasn't taking advantage of the braking power. I was braking early, but too soft and carrying too much speed. I started counting one-one-thousand after I wanted to brake and braked a lot harder. That helped with the trail braking and the car rotated a lot better. I now feel that trail braking is key with the car in stock trim. It made a huge difference.

Oh yeah, You can't touch the rear sway bar if you want to be in the stock class. The front is ok, but the rear is off limits.

 

With respect to the Evo, that's true.

But if there is some car out there that has an adjustable rear sway bar as a factory option, owners of that car can equip the factory adjustable rear sway bar and adjust away all they want.

I think an adjustable rear sway bar is either standard or is a factory option on the Caterham Seven, although that isn't a legal car in SCCA Stock.

 

yeah, I was just wondering if the stock Evo's sway bar was adjustable. Although I didn't expect it to be, was just wishful thinking. I'm in STS, so I can go ahead with that rear strut bar as well as the sway bar. Also, I noticed my car being more balanced at the road course today. I guess it's just the hairpins that upset my car. I'll work on that.

 

I wish I could run STX, but they disallowed the Evo and STI form that class. I may switch to ESP so that I can really do some serious suspension work.