Brake faliure on the track... no idea why
Fireball,
What you're talking about sounds like pad knockback I've felt it also at Grattan but not RA it's caused by the suspension flexing in the turns allowing the rotors to push the pads back in some. After about 1/2 day I found exactly where it was happening and gave the brakes a small tap before the braking area. Low vacuum would just make the pedal hard.
What you're talking about sounds like pad knockback I've felt it also at Grattan but not RA it's caused by the suspension flexing in the turns allowing the rotors to push the pads back in some. After about 1/2 day I found exactly where it was happening and gave the brakes a small tap before the braking area. Low vacuum would just make the pedal hard.
None of the SCCA guys have any problems with vaccum assist, fade or mushy pedal. We all run Castrol SRF fluid, Blank rotors and Hawk DTC-70 or PFC 05 pads as well as the AMS brake cooling kit.
The exception is when the seals on the calipers go and require a rebuild, but this will be a consistent mushy pedal feel. You boiled your fluid.
I would not waste my money on fancy rotors unless you are using a true two-piece floating design.
The exception is when the seals on the calipers go and require a rebuild, but this will be a consistent mushy pedal feel. You boiled your fluid.
I would not waste my money on fancy rotors unless you are using a true two-piece floating design.
Two piece rotors and a good set of padsFTW! I have yet to have my fluid boil and i have almost cooked the paint off of my calipers!
Fireball,
What you're talking about sounds like pad knockback I've felt it also at Grattan but not RA it's caused by the suspension flexing in the turns allowing the rotors to push the pads back in some. After about 1/2 day I found exactly where it was happening and gave the brakes a small tap before the braking area. Low vacuum would just make the pedal hard.
What you're talking about sounds like pad knockback I've felt it also at Grattan but not RA it's caused by the suspension flexing in the turns allowing the rotors to push the pads back in some. After about 1/2 day I found exactly where it was happening and gave the brakes a small tap before the braking area. Low vacuum would just make the pedal hard.
Only cure I've found for this is to move your left foot over on the brakes for a gentle push to 'prime' them while your right foot is still pinned. Makes them nice and hard for when your right foot moves back onto the brakes.Dave
hey Dave...
100% agree with this. This is a very common thing to have happen on rally stages or at hillclimbs where its bumpy and the first time it happens it can cause a huge oh s!it moment. Maybe I should see if "Depends" wants to sponsor my car.
Only cure I've found for this is to move your left foot over on the brakes for a gentle push to 'prime' them while your right foot is still pinned. Makes them nice and hard for when your right foot moves back onto the brakes.
Dave
Only cure I've found for this is to move your left foot over on the brakes for a gentle push to 'prime' them while your right foot is still pinned. Makes them nice and hard for when your right foot moves back onto the brakes.Dave
MidO is hard on brakes. It has some sections where you build a lot of speed and then have to stand on it. As such you are going to eat some parts. I do not like the HP line at all for the track and I am sure Hawk would agree.
I know that I had a LOT less problem with heat when I went to Racingbrake 2 piece floating rotors. You may not have to do this but you should consider some new pads and a bleed with the Motul.
I know that I had a LOT less problem with heat when I went to Racingbrake 2 piece floating rotors. You may not have to do this but you should consider some new pads and a bleed with the Motul.
Get 'em checked out to be certain there isn't some thing wrong.
Goood fluid & bleeding
proper pads
maybe SS lines if OE are getting worn
keep your foot off the pedal
"until" needed
You're solid
everything that's been said before except the e-*****
Goood fluid & bleeding
proper pads
maybe SS lines if OE are getting worn
keep your foot off the pedal
"until" neededYou're solid
everything that's been said before except the e-*****
The right caliper is darker normally because it sits behind the oil cooler, not because of corner loading. I never experienced pad knockback at MO (even abusing the curbing), and you didn't have enough laps in the session to have the pads in general overheat and boil the fluid. I still think that something is up with the LF caliper, which caused it to overheat and boil the fluid.
The right caliper is darker normally because it sits behind the oil cooler, not because of corner loading. I never experienced pad knockback at MO (even abusing the curbing), and you didn't have enough laps in the session to have the pads in general overheat and boil the fluid. I still think that something is up with the LF caliper, which caused it to overheat and boil the fluid.
Will you be at MO in August Greg? I have signed up for TTA which will be my only TT event this year in the EVO. I feel so bad neglecting it.
_____
Jason
the knockback statement
The right caliper is darker normally because it sits behind the oil cooler, not because of corner loading. I never experienced pad knockback at MO (even abusing the curbing), and you didn't have enough laps in the session to have the pads in general overheat and boil the fluid. I still think that something is up with the LF caliper, which caused it to overheat and boil the fluid.
Fireball,
What you're talking about sounds like pad knockback I've felt it also at Grattan but not RA it's caused by the suspension flexing in the turns allowing the rotors to push the pads back in some. After about 1/2 day I found exactly where it was happening and gave the brakes a small tap before the braking area. Low vacuum would just make the pedal hard.
What you're talking about sounds like pad knockback I've felt it also at Grattan but not RA it's caused by the suspension flexing in the turns allowing the rotors to push the pads back in some. After about 1/2 day I found exactly where it was happening and gave the brakes a small tap before the braking area. Low vacuum would just make the pedal hard.
Am I the only one still with red (not brown) calipers who has seen a lot of track time? My car must have been built on a good paint day. DTC pads and ATE fluid. No problems with fade or loss in feel over the course of a session, but I change the fluid every couple events. $10/can is cheap insurance.
Am I the only one still with red (not brown) calipers who has seen a lot of track time? My car must have been built on a good paint day. DTC pads and ATE fluid. No problems with fade or loss in feel over the course of a session, but I change the fluid every couple events. $10/can is cheap insurance.
I had a helluva time getting used to that pad, since I went from the "OMIGOD I need to stomp on the brake pedal with the force of a freight train" HP+ pad to the "If I don't float like a butterfly, I will trigger ABS" PF-97 pad, which has equalled super dark calipers.
l8r)


Now that I think about it, a lot of times I get that mush pedal through the kink (right after the carousel) and turn 12, which follows the kink.
I'll have to play with tappin the pedal as I'm coming out of the carousel.






