*sigh*

I just got new tires and alignment and when I told the tech that I wanted max camber front and rear with zero toe, I think he might have taken it a bit too literally!

With me in the car (w00t for good techs!), I've got 3.0* up front, and 2.7* in the rear. 0 toe up front, slight toe in in the back.

Now that I sit here and day dream while coding, I realize that the camber in back should have been less (I'm thinking 2*)...

In any case, my car is on Stance GR+Pro SSD coilovers (14/14 spring rates) with star specs.

I autocross heavily and do some track days too. Mostly short, tight, technical courses (since the Miata guys are thick here ). But my car is also my daily driver...

Luckily I got the lifetime alignment, because after the autocross this weekend I'll likely be back to get a touch up!

 

Seems like way too much to me. 1.2-1.5 is about where I like to keep it.

 

i agree

 

Way too much in the back!

- Andrew

 

With track or aggressive street setups our rule of thumb is to run about half the camber in the back that you are running in the front. You'll be better off running about 1.3-1.5 negative in the back. I would run 0 toe in the back as well, and maybe a tad bit of toe out in the front if your running short, tight courses.

good luck

-Bill@WORKS

 

2.7 in the rear is too aggresive especially for the spring rats you are running.
I agree with Bill, about half the camber in the rear and toe out up front. I run 285 V710's and 3/8 total toe out up front.

 

Yeah, you should've done a bit of research and given exact specs to align to rather than asking for "more negative camber". Now you know what to get, though.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I took it back and had it reset.

We'll see how this works and touch up as needed.

Lifetime alignment ftw

 

Good call, right now I'm set at -1.7 with 1/8" toe out in the rear. Up front -2.25 and zero toe.

Mr.

 

It would be almost perfect if you fix the rear diff...the real cause of the push and the reason everyone has to mess up their cars with 1/2 as much camber in the rear as the front.

Having to straighten up the rear tires to make the car balanced is a band aid that does not address the real problems, and ultimately leaves seconds on the table.

 

^ I am sorry what are you exactly referring to as straigten up the rear?

 

-2.5 front camber, -1.25 rear camber, Zer0 toe all around

 

they mean running less negative camber in the rear. they are saying you should be able to adjust the understeer with the rear diff allowing you to run similar camber numbers all around.

not my point of view im just translating.

 

I agree, but at the same token, not many people have the $1000+ or more to put down for a diff.
For people that have a few hundred dollars, a front bar is a good start. But if you have the money for the suspension, you should save it and put in a diff.

 

You go to Jon@TRE and make sure its done right...he has a 400 flat rate and does more than the local shop rearend shop would do, though the local shop can be a good deal and knowledgeable as well, though you have to do your own research.

Or you can go all the way and custom setup a KAAZ like I did. More like 1.5k when done but worth every penny.

Anyone can get the rear diff in and out in about an hour...much easier job than replacing a front sway bar.