I agree with you Playa with your key points to run them. The Jap cars that run this type of lower control arm are always sitting on the ground as far as ride height. I would assume these arms help them to get their desired specs as far as geometry and alignment. Having an extended lower control arm wouldn't increase track though, because the strut top is mounted solid, and the bottom is only getting extended. So from what I can see, it is automatic negative camber increase.You would have to run some sort of custom lower bracket on the coilover like the Cyber STi to offset the hub properly and make use of the increased length. I don't know if I'm making sense haha..This makes sense in my head but not sure if I am making sense.

 

The HRS LCA's come with longer axles as noted in the OP.

And wouldn't an extended LCA increase track in the same way a spacer on the Hub would ?

 

It wouldn't, you have to look at it as one unit that needs to be extended equally to gain full advantage of the setup. There are 4 things that need to be increased equally.
- LCA
-Axle
-Tie Rod
-Strut mounting position (key part which is not extended) If you extended the mounting point properly, you would then gain overall track with up front.. It would be the same effect as a spacer but it would be far better because you would not have the wheel pushed so far out putting a ton of force on the spindle assembly. If you don't extend it, your just stuck with more negative camber which could be desirable to some..
Hope I'm making sense.
It is easier to show on an Evo or any Mac strut car. I just showed my boss what I was talking about and he understood what I was saying.

 

You could, although a modified lower ear on the strut is probably easier. Here's -8 degrees on my car.

 

Makes perfect sense to me

 

That's also a RWD Holden. Front camber is just going to keep it hard to hold straight. I do agree tho, braking would be scary.



Also a n00b question, does roll center refer to the strut's axis of rotation between the upper strut bearing and lower ball joint?

 

Not exactly correct here. You missed one key adjustment. On my car you run the camber plate all the way "in" to get the camber I run. If you move the lower control arms ball joint out 1 inch, you just move the top camber plate out 1 inch and you should be at aproximately the same camber but with +1" track width. You can probably get away with +1/2" with the stock axles, maybe more. The adjustable tie rod ends should have enough thread to be able to move them out +1" also. . .

 

I will agree with you but that would depend entirely on how much camber you want to run. If wanted more negative camber, then you lost your effective track. I said full advantage, by this I mean being able to leave your strut placement the same and moving the hub out leaving you with the same range of adjustment you had before. You could certainly do as you are saying, but you've lost some of your adjustment capabilities.

 

Once again, not really. If you keep the bottom pivot stationary and pull the top plate "IN" to get more camber you are pulling the top of the tire IN. If you keep the plates stationary and move the bottom pivot point "OUT" to get more camber you are pushing the bottom of the tire out - effectively increasing your track width. . .

And you don't "lose" adjustment by pushing the bottom pivot point out - you just shift the adjustment range. . .

 

You can't be serious are you?

 

run the stockers....much more reliable. the rear mount on the lower control arms gives out from what robi told me with continued abuse..... EEEEEEEEEEEK

 

What part specifically? The rod end wears out? The arm itself breaks?

The rod ends are cheap to replace if that's all it is. . .

 

HI guys I rally a Evo 1 RS which is all Evo 3 running gear susppension and so on and I am looking for some full addjustbill front arms, I see the ones in this post for the Evo 7 and I am hopping ther is some one making some for the CD9A Evo 1 to 3 ?

all so some better addjusters for the rear tow would be nice as well

ok hopping some one can hellp out as I do have pics of the works Mitsubishi rally parts in the homlergasion papaers but ther not very good pics and would rather just buy some good off the shelf stuff rather than spend hrs making some

ok eny info E mail me at shane40le@hotmail.com

thainks guys for eny hellp

Shane

 

Shane:

Check out Lancerregister.com they have members with early evos. Here in the states we only got the 8+, so there are only a few people who know about them.

 

thainks man