Im not tryin to make fun but very little you do on the street will transfer to the track... Some will argue this, but heel toe down shifts from 45mph to a red light is NO where near a heel toe down shift from 100+ mph into a hard right or left. I murdered my poor car trying to learn this and be consistent. And consistence is key, Im not perfect at the heel toe yet.... It can be frustrating!! I suggest getting a larger gas pedal!! HAHAHA, worked for me!!

 

^^^ Or just nice set of shoes

 

I would totally agree with this and found it to be totally true this past weekend at the track. I thought my heel-toe was pretty nice on the street until I was heading into a turn at over 100, threshold braking and all of a sudden couldn't figure out how to bend my right foot over to the gas pedal. It took many laps to figure out how to get it right and it will take many many more to make sure I can do it consistently.

 

yea, well where i live we dont have stoplights and no i dont street race or anything but ive had my moments of spirited driving on these mountain roads... please dont flame me, im not a dumb ricer..

so heres the good news, i got a fairly good deal on a new FP RED w/ stainless oil lines and in-line oil filters..

the bad, my ACD pump is smokes and so is my transfer case.. ShepTrans is telling me its gonna cost around $2k to fix and i just spent almost all my money, so i guess im going to be seeing a bit more downtime.. or alot more downtime

 

Okay so I purchased an FP RED with stainless oil lines and filters, I also got a transfer case from an 03 (non-lsd, non-acd). The transfer case is definatly a downgrade without the lsd but now i can take time and rebuild my old one..

I was going to send the old one off too ShepTrans and get the Stage 2 build with a RoadRace Wavetrac differential for better reliability?

Any suggestions?

EDIT:
Sorry about the cocky comment earlier ^ I was pissed that my transfer case is shot, lol

 

Okay here's some pics I just took with my Blackberry, sorry for the quality:

Interior is not finished but will be as soon as I can find the time, I still need to remove the speakers and wiring, finish removing the sound deadening tar and painting the floorboard, and I need to make a bracket to mount the harnesses.









Here's the new Energy Suspension front control arm bushings and Perring PSRS kit installed



New manifold soon to have an FP RED and all stainless lines bolted to it with an FP 02 housing



And heres the replacement bumper uninstalled and unpainted and the canards are not bolted to it yet

 

Not sure what set of rules your cage was built to, but I always worry when I see cages that are bolted together). A local team showed up a shop that builds rally cars with a Cusco "roll cage" and it was promptly removed and a proper weld-in cage fabbed up. Your's looks to be worlds better than the Cusco, with some nice triangulation behind the driver. The A-pillar bars seem like they were designed for ease of installation rather than protecting the occupants. Not sure if your rules would allow it, but replacing the bolted bars with solid bars would help to eliminate failure points at the bolts.

I know you're probably scoring some good deals on the go-fast goodies you're picking up, but as others have said, leave some $$ laying around for stock parts that may wear and brake...just like a T-Case. I've broken a front and rear diff in the past year, so I feel your pain! A stock Evo is argueably the wrong car to start out in since it does such a good job of hiding driver mistakes. I sold off my AWD car to start doing track days in a Miata, and I'm glad I did. Parts are sooo much cheaper for an old Miata.

Have fun and drive safe!

Dave

 

The cage is built by AutoPower and is top notch. There are some actual pics I saw on this website awhile back before I bought it because I thought the same thing, that bolt-ins are weak, but after seeing guys that have rolled 3 or 4 times and the cage hasnt collapsed convinced me.

The cage IS SCCA and NASA approved for Time Trial and Competiton so its legal to race in a series as long as I weld 1 door bar in on the drivers side. I highly recomend this cage, very high quality!

 

Cool, sounds like you've done the research. Its good that all you'll need to do to be fully legit with the two sanctioning bodies is to weld up one bar.

My one word of advice is if you plan on doing any mods to your pedals (or anything else under the dash), do it while you can still remove that door bar. Working on a fully caged car really sucks some times.

Dave

 

See as of right now the car is completely legal (minus fire extinguisher) for Time Attack and Hillclimb.

If I wanted to race in lets say SCCA T2, actual wheel to wheel racing, then yes I musy weld in the extra side beam for impact protection.

I got the whole cage for $400 shipped

 

Just out of curiousity, how much did the cage weigh or do you know what thickness & diameter the bars are? For reference, the FIA cage I put in my car was ~110 lbs. Its legal for rally, but I can't use it for wheel 2 wheel road racing because it doesn't use "nascar style" door bars.

I didn't think Time Attack even required roll cages...so I guess I'm out of the loop on those rules just a bit.

Dave

 

After reading your entire thread, I just want to know. Have you ever driven on a road course?

 

Im not too sure on weight, it really didnt weigh as much as I thought it would but i would say around ~100ibs.

It is all 1 3/4" with a .125 wall thickness.

And no time attack doesnt require cages but its a good idea, and plus im planning on doing hillclimbs and i dont really want to smack a tree at 70mph without a cage.. Ive done it before

 

I got a chance to get on VIR once but it was limited. Other than that no, just local Auto-X

Im going to the HPDE events trying to get my HillClimb cert...

 

If you're planning on hillclimbs where trees are close to the road, do yourself a big favor and look at rally car cage design and try to incorporate some extra bars into your cage. Road racing accidents are usually of a completely different nature than rally cars, since road courses usually have crash mitigation built in.

I'd say one of those "hope for the best, but plan for the worst" sorta things. I had a friend with a SCCA ProRally legal cage (circa 2003ish), who put a 36 inch "dent" in the side of his car with an impact at 100mph. Trees & rocks aren't to be messed with!

Dave