Reconsidering class
Reconsidering class
So I've been thinking, I was going to build my car for TTU, but now I'm thinking TTS.
As of right now I have 0 track time in the evo, maybe it would benefit me running a smaller, 245 competition DOT like a Hoosier A6 and running around 360whp instead of 450whp until I learn the car a little better.
I know the cars are wicked fast on the track, mine was before this build, so I think it wise to keep the speed down.
Any other suggestions/ideas?
As of right now I have 0 track time in the evo, maybe it would benefit me running a smaller, 245 competition DOT like a Hoosier A6 and running around 360whp instead of 450whp until I learn the car a little better.
I know the cars are wicked fast on the track, mine was before this build, so I think it wise to keep the speed down.
Any other suggestions/ideas?
I would stop worrying about the car and worry about the driver. What is it with people wanting to build a damn car without having an ounce of track experience? GET SEAT TIME
Throwing money at the car is fun, but that doesn't make it fast. Spend the money on getting your TT license BEFORE you decide what you're going to do with the car.
Also, when it comes to being competitive in TTS/TTU... well... take whatever budget you had in mind for the car, and triple it. It will probably be about that much just to not be a backmarker. So don't even worry about that part yet...
I realize it is a little late - but the rules seem to push towards the way of upgrading incrementally and focusing on small upgrades (punitive points on larger/$$ upgrades like new turbos/cams/aftermarket ecu/coilovers (esp remote reservoir!)).
Fastest way to get fast - get on the track all the time and get comfortable with the car and the mods...which means upgrade a little at a time and let the car become a garage queen.
(I have a monstrously mod'd LS1 RX7 that is a weekend of work away from being ready to hit the track (for the first time!), sitting in my parents' garage for the past few years, which helps remind me of the above suggestion).
Fastest way to get fast - get on the track all the time and get comfortable with the car and the mods...which means upgrade a little at a time and let the car become a garage queen.
(I have a monstrously mod'd LS1 RX7 that is a weekend of work away from being ready to hit the track (for the first time!), sitting in my parents' garage for the past few years, which helps remind me of the above suggestion).
I realize it is a little late - but the rules seem to push towards the way of upgrading incrementally and focusing on small upgrades (punitive points on larger/$$ upgrades like new turbos/cams/aftermarket ecu/coilovers (esp remote reservoir!)).
Fastest way to get fast - get on the track all the time and get comfortable with the car and the mods...which means upgrade a little at a time and let the car become a garage queen.
(I have a monstrously mod'd LS1 RX7 that is a weekend of work away from being ready to hit the track (for the first time!), sitting in my parents' garage for the past few years, which helps remind me of the above suggestion).
Fastest way to get fast - get on the track all the time and get comfortable with the car and the mods...which means upgrade a little at a time and let the car become a garage queen.
(I have a monstrously mod'd LS1 RX7 that is a weekend of work away from being ready to hit the track (for the first time!), sitting in my parents' garage for the past few years, which helps remind me of the above suggestion).
TTS and TTU it doesn't matter what you do to the car as long as the adjusted weight/power is good. The only things that affect that per se are AWD, non DOT Tires, Sequentials, 4-doors etc. There is no base on mods other than that.
But NEVERMIND that.......
OP
Are you MAD son? Talking about going straight into competition without any track time at all. By 0 track in the Evo I really hope you mean you have track time in other cars, just not this particular one.
That is rediculous. BAN.
J/K
After looking at his part out thread, he has to have experience in some car to just go and gut the thing to build a race car. That or he's watched F&F or read too many magazines. Going to give benefit of the doubt till he proves me wrong.
Trending Topics
I have driven 65 Shelby Cobra's at VIR on open track days, other then that not much and I'm not looking to go straight to TT, I am doing HPDE this season in hopes of getting my TT License at the end of this season or the beginning of next season.
I'm just trying to get the car close to the power output I will need for TTS so I can get a better feel for how the car will run in competition trim. I am done spending money on the car for now. I'm already making 400+whp so I would be de-tuning it to 355-370 for TTS (which is free).
I wish I could go back to stock trim and start over but those days ended over 3 years ago when I started modding this car for the street. I never intended to race this car but now that its eating me up inside not being able to race I grew a pair and decided to go ahead with the race build and permanately take it off the street. I do not have much of the stock parts, so there is no going back without me spending money.
Mods:
Drivetrain:
2.3L stroker
Stage 1 head
FP Red
3"TBE
Tomei BOV
ETS 3" I/C
780cc PTE's
Walbro 255lph
AEM intake w/ carbon heatsheild
Shep stage 2 transfer case
Perrin solid shifter bushings
Exedy HD Twin Disc
stock ECU
Energy Suspension rear diff bushings
All Redline Fluids
Brakes:
StopTech front BBK
Brembo rear Gran Turismo BBK
BFGoodridge SS lines
Motul 600RBF fluid
Suspension/Chassis:
Tanabe 7 Series coilovers w/ Pro210 race springs
front and rear chro-moly swaybars
complete underbracing set
Energy Suspension Poly Bushings
solid aluminum front control arm bushings
camber plates
electronic rebound/dampning (TEAS)
Cusco rear strut tower bar
custom 6pt welded roll cage (NASA CCR/TT Spec)
Wheels/Tires:
Enkei NT03+M's 17x8.5 +35ET
255/40/17 Sumitoma HTRZIII (Good for HPDE) (upgrading to Direzza Star Specs)
Interior:
Sparco Rev seats on 6061 1/4" side brackets on custom fabricated mounts
G-Force 5pt camlock/latch-link harnesses mounted to custom welded in plates
Sparco steering wheel
NRG quick release hub
fire extinguisher
custom gauge pod
boost/oil psi/wideband gauges
Exterior:
APR GT front bumper
custom brake cooling guides (made from C5 corvette brake coolers)
custom splitter and front undertray (currently in development)
APR front splitters
APR rear diffuser
carbon hood
APR GT mirrors
lamiex headlight film
^ SEE
There is no going back for me, I got most of that stuff for free or very little money and I sold the stock stuff to pay for the 2.3L and FP RED
I'm just trying to get the car close to the power output I will need for TTS so I can get a better feel for how the car will run in competition trim. I am done spending money on the car for now. I'm already making 400+whp so I would be de-tuning it to 355-370 for TTS (which is free).
I wish I could go back to stock trim and start over but those days ended over 3 years ago when I started modding this car for the street. I never intended to race this car but now that its eating me up inside not being able to race I grew a pair and decided to go ahead with the race build and permanately take it off the street. I do not have much of the stock parts, so there is no going back without me spending money.
Mods:
Drivetrain:
2.3L stroker
Stage 1 head
FP Red
3"TBE
Tomei BOV
ETS 3" I/C
780cc PTE's
Walbro 255lph
AEM intake w/ carbon heatsheild
Shep stage 2 transfer case
Perrin solid shifter bushings
Exedy HD Twin Disc
stock ECU
Energy Suspension rear diff bushings
All Redline Fluids
Brakes:
StopTech front BBK
Brembo rear Gran Turismo BBK
BFGoodridge SS lines
Motul 600RBF fluid
Suspension/Chassis:
Tanabe 7 Series coilovers w/ Pro210 race springs
front and rear chro-moly swaybars
complete underbracing set
Energy Suspension Poly Bushings
solid aluminum front control arm bushings
camber plates
electronic rebound/dampning (TEAS)
Cusco rear strut tower bar
custom 6pt welded roll cage (NASA CCR/TT Spec)
Wheels/Tires:
Enkei NT03+M's 17x8.5 +35ET
255/40/17 Sumitoma HTRZIII (Good for HPDE) (upgrading to Direzza Star Specs)
Interior:
Sparco Rev seats on 6061 1/4" side brackets on custom fabricated mounts
G-Force 5pt camlock/latch-link harnesses mounted to custom welded in plates
Sparco steering wheel
NRG quick release hub
fire extinguisher
custom gauge pod
boost/oil psi/wideband gauges
Exterior:
APR GT front bumper
custom brake cooling guides (made from C5 corvette brake coolers)
custom splitter and front undertray (currently in development)
APR front splitters
APR rear diffuser
carbon hood
APR GT mirrors
lamiex headlight film
^ SEE
There is no going back for me, I got most of that stuff for free or very little money and I sold the stock stuff to pay for the 2.3L and FP RED
Last edited by MitsoKid; Feb 26, 2010 at 08:37 AM.
But just for the heck of it, I'll throw my opinion in on the topic. An FPRed in TTS or even the lower HPDE ladder probably isn't the best way to go. Something that modded with the type of powerband it has is going to be difficult to learn, drive and maintain. Not to mention costly.
But you say you are where you are. So crank down the boost, get a good healthy safe tune and get track time.
I know, I shouldnt have gone with the FP Red. MY stock turbo blew up and this was a cheap alternative. I picked it up new for dirt cheap for a Red.
I'm gonna bump the boost way down, shooting for 320awhp, should be pretty easy to make the car run strong at that power level. I'm waiting to see what my min. comp. weigh in will be. I'm thinking 2900lbs w/ driver and 1/4 tank of gas.
I'm gonna bump the boost way down, shooting for 320awhp, should be pretty easy to make the car run strong at that power level. I'm waiting to see what my min. comp. weigh in will be. I'm thinking 2900lbs w/ driver and 1/4 tank of gas.
I want to preface that we are here to help you. There are many thoughts running through my head, but i dont have the time to tell you everything. Besides, you need to learn part of it on your own. I can tell that you realize that youre not doing this the right way, but i dont think you realize by how much youre in over your head with this build. I understand, when you first started with this car 3 years ago you just wanted to mod it. At some point you decided you wanted to some day start competing in TT, and now here you are. Whatever i tell you i say it because im trying to help you. So please do not get discouraged. Youve posted a thread or two about this topic before. We tried to help you then, and we will try to help you here again. But despite what we advise you with, i think youre going to end up learning the hard way. There is no way around it given all the mods you have going on, and everything you keep planning for. I dont recall what you said exactly, but i think you said youve blown a turbo, engine, and trany thus far? Ive done 2 seasons of TT, and 1 season of racing, and none of that has happened to me yet. If you have 0 track time with your Evo and all that has happened already, prepare for the worst. Beyond all that, youre not going to learn how to drive your car in 1 season of HPDE/TT. The first time i felt like i really started learning how to drive my car was when i started racing last year. I knew before then that i didnt know anything, well, now i feel like i know even less than what i thought. If you are serious about competing in TT, understand this, you will change parts and adjust your setup as you gain experience and as the season unfolds. Everything youre investing into your car now is potentially useless. I think that weve tried to explain all this to you, but i dont feel like you really understood it. I honestly feel like ive failed at helping you out. All that is left is for you to learn the hard way. As for the FPred, i would not touch it if someone gave it to me for free. I dont care what anyone says about it. I wish you the best and maybe we will meet someday.
^ what division do you run in? I've seen your site before on the NASA forum. ^
Its just that I can't go back ya know. If I could start over I would probably sell the Evo and get a C5 vette cheap and leave it stock other then racing seats, harnesses and a cage. But I can't and I'm stuck. I'm not trying to spend to much money on the car but when I hit 80,000 miles things started to break but I believe the drivetrain is well sorted now.
As far as the suspension I built it to use more with R-Compounds, big mistake.
So should I stop worrying about how over-classed I am and just drive on street tires? I'm registering for some HPDE 1 events at CMP in 2 months, hope the car is running by then
I'm also thinking about local Auto-X just for the seat time
Its just that I can't go back ya know. If I could start over I would probably sell the Evo and get a C5 vette cheap and leave it stock other then racing seats, harnesses and a cage. But I can't and I'm stuck. I'm not trying to spend to much money on the car but when I hit 80,000 miles things started to break but I believe the drivetrain is well sorted now.
As far as the suspension I built it to use more with R-Compounds, big mistake.
So should I stop worrying about how over-classed I am and just drive on street tires? I'm registering for some HPDE 1 events at CMP in 2 months, hope the car is running by then
I'm also thinking about local Auto-X just for the seat time
Last edited by MitsoKid; Feb 26, 2010 at 02:32 PM.
^ what division do you run in? I've seen your site before on the NASA forum. ^
Its just that I can't go back ya know. If I could start over I would probably sell the Evo and get a C5 vette cheap and leave it stock other then racing seats, harnesses and a cage. But I can't and I'm stuck. I'm not trying to spend to much money on the car but when I hit 80,000 miles things started to break but I believe the drivetrain is well sorted now.
As far as the suspension I built it to use more with R-Compounds, big mistake.
So should I stop worrying about how over-classed I am and just drive on street tires? I'm registering for some HPDE 1 events at CMP in 2 months, hope the car is running by then
I'm also thinking about local Auto-X just for the seat time
Its just that I can't go back ya know. If I could start over I would probably sell the Evo and get a C5 vette cheap and leave it stock other then racing seats, harnesses and a cage. But I can't and I'm stuck. I'm not trying to spend to much money on the car but when I hit 80,000 miles things started to break but I believe the drivetrain is well sorted now.
As far as the suspension I built it to use more with R-Compounds, big mistake.
So should I stop worrying about how over-classed I am and just drive on street tires? I'm registering for some HPDE 1 events at CMP in 2 months, hope the car is running by then
I'm also thinking about local Auto-X just for the seat time
As for your situation, i understand. Youre stuck, i get it. Here is what i would do. Just get the car to a point that you can safely drive it on track. That means, your brakes work, your fluid is fresh, your pads have way more than 5mm, and so forth. Beyond that, a simple alignment so that your car drives straight. Thats really it. You want to be able to drive it with confidence. If youre not comfortable/confident, youre not going to be able to focus on learning how to drive your car. Once you get out there, you may start realizing that i wish i did this, and i wish i did that. I wish they told me to do this and that, and so forth. But there is not much you can do without experience and seat time, and there is even less we can advise you because we havent seen or driven your car. That list is pretty much endless, so you need to get out there and just start driving with a car that is safe and comfortable for you. As for autox, ive never done it. But i would recommend that you get as much seat time as possible, so if you want to do some autox also, go for it. The more the better.
^ that was a pretty helpful post. Thanks 
Oh and I meant region not division, sorry
I got new Hawk pads waiting.
Fresh RBF600 Motul
Fresh Tranny/Diff fluids
New engine w/ Rotella race oil
1/2 way worn street tires
I should be good to go once the engine gets here next week, the build keeps dragging on for some reason. I also have an awesome tuner, so I will have the car de-tuned as much as possible.
Alignment is set also:
Front camber -2.6, 0 toe, +4.75 caster
Rear camber -1.8, 0 toe, OE caster
Then I'm gonna hit the track, hopefully at CMP in April
Oh and I meant region not division, sorry
I got new Hawk pads waiting.
Fresh RBF600 Motul
Fresh Tranny/Diff fluids
New engine w/ Rotella race oil
1/2 way worn street tires
I should be good to go once the engine gets here next week, the build keeps dragging on for some reason. I also have an awesome tuner, so I will have the car de-tuned as much as possible.
Alignment is set also:
Front camber -2.6, 0 toe, +4.75 caster
Rear camber -1.8, 0 toe, OE caster
Then I'm gonna hit the track, hopefully at CMP in April


