GTisRule

iTrader: (5)

I've had some major chatter issues coming from my brakes on the last few track days I've attended. At this point, I just purchased a brand new set of Gyrodisc 1 piece veined rotors, put the DS3000's on and ran out to the track. Bedding was done during the first session, mostly by just not braking hard or as deep as I usually would. But as the session continued, the chattering started and remained until the brakes cooled completely. The next session you could feel the chatter starting pretty early. I tried a few "stand on them" methods trying to clean off pad resedue, but after each session I could visibly see brake deposits all over the new rotors.

Am I just cooking the pad? Maybe I need a higher melting point pad? I've been plagued by brake problems with this car since I bought it new. I'm running Motul 600 which was fresh for yesterday's event.

I wouldn't say I'm a slow or inexperienced driver, the brakes do get used, but this is getting really old. Without confidence in the brakes, it makes driving fast very hard.

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

Let's try and figure out what level you are driving at. Do you have cooling ducts? What type & size of tires are you using?

Because street vs r-comps vs slicks create differing levels of heat.

GTisRule

iTrader: (5)

Sorry, a little more detail,

No cooling ducts, but I have the factory MR air guides. Tires are 255/40-17 Dunlop Direzza star specs. I have Gerrard spec Ohlins that have been corner balanced. I don't race, just do track days at the moment, so it's hard to say what level I drive at. At Portland Int'l Raceway I'm in the advanced groups, this was my first time in Seattle so they had me in intermediate this time around (Other than the 2 evo's running, we lapped our entire group in 3 sessions .)

meanmud

iTrader: (74)

Pretty sure that that is not the way to properly bed the pads/rotors. That chattering is uneven distribution of material(s).

Talk to some of the experts.

scorke

iTrader: (18)

I just had the same exact issue as you.

Bedded them in as recommended, first hard session on the track had horrible pad deposits..

Scorke

kwlevo

iTrader: (1)

you need to bed the pads in properly to have them work at there best. if you have chattering you either haven't bedded properly or you have warped rotors...

Ferodo bedding procedure:
"When bedding in the car always try to bed on used rotors. If bedding on new rotors follow the rotor bedding instructions of the manufacturer, as it is important to heat cycle them first before bedding the pads. After fitting the new pads prepare the car by blocking off 50 percent of the brake cooling / air ducts to speed the “heat up time”. When leaving the pit lane apply brake gently at low speed to ensure pads are fitted correctly, build up temperature progressively to approx 350° C (670° F). This enables the heat to distribute around all areas of the pad.

When brakes are at suitable temperature begin bedding process, achieve approximately 70 percent of race speed then perform 25-30 brake applications at half normal race pedal pressure holding on for 4 seconds.
When this is completed use a slowing down lap to allow brakes to cool. Return to the pit lane and allow pads to cool completely, check rotor appearance. Transfer film should be constant around rotor face, any “patchy” deposit will result in brake pedal judder. The use of temperature paint on rotors enables more accurate bedding procedures."

The DS3000 is a great pad for quick races where you need constant bite out of the gate. you won't get super bite out of them tho. if you want to get tons of bite go to performance friction.

c_reber

iTrader: (13)

Same here, followed the insturctions pretty close that came with the pads, and I have really bad brake judder/chatter. I also posted about this problem in the evo x tires/suspension section on the forum.

I wish there was some way to fix the problem, but it seems like it gets worse for me each track day (even after resurfacing rotors). When I can afford them, my next race pads will prob be ST-43's.

TxEvo8

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like they weren't bedded properly, did you let them cool down completely after you bedded them?

GTisRule

iTrader: (5)

Well they were bedded during the first session. They were never brought to 100% braking pressures, then set for 45 mins or so between sessions.

I'm coming to think bedding these are just impossible for me. Ferodo recommending 120 - 10MPH braking sessions x2, I just don't have the space or ability to do this without using a freeway at 3AM.

meanmud

iTrader: (74)

Exactly - didn't get enough heat into them, let alone getting them back to ambient.

scorke

iTrader: (18)

To all that had the chatter did switching pads get rid of the issue for any of you?

Scorke

c_reber

iTrader: (13)

Can't afford new pads yet. But I'll definetly be switching pads, that's for sure. Especially with a lot of people on here having the same exact problems with the DS3000s

GTisRule

iTrader: (5)

Took the car down to a local race shop yesterday and stripped the front brakes down. We also contacted Martin from Gyrodisc to discuss. I melted the pads which left a considerable amount of transfer to the rotors. DS3000's are not capable of handling the weight and speed of a Evo driven fast it turns out. Going with some Raybestos DTC-43's which should be here next week.

c_reber

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the info. Even though that kinda sucks since my 3000's have at least half the pad left on there. and they weren't cheap either.

Did you get your rotors (stock rotors still?) turned then? Or you think the new pads will wipe off the "deposits" from the rotor face?

I've heard of the ST-43 pads, how do the DTC-43 compare? Whats the difference?

delongedoug

iTrader: (20)

I think he was mixing up Hawk's DTC line with the Raybestos ST-43 pads.