installing brake proportioning value?
I kno all about being lazy! lol. I think i had to look up the order the first 10 times i've bled the brakes because i always mixed them up.
Did you run Beaverun the with EMRA the other day?
Did you run Beaverun the with EMRA the other day?
Exactly. Works great. You need a proper rake too. But with that bpv you can set up the car better for weather, tires,pads and tracks. And alla those combinations.
this ABS deletion kit from Chase is plug and play and comes with proportioning valve. $400 seems kinda expensive considering you can buy the valve separately from them for $85
http://www.chasebays.com/product/mit...subishi-evo-49
http://www.chasebays.com/product/mit...subishi-evo-49
there's also nothing preventing you from replumbing the brake lines into a F/R setup instead of a diagonal setup (same thing the chase bays kit does) and using a regular 45 dollar prop valve instead of the fancy 85 dollar version. Still need an ABS MC for that though too.
unbent factory brake lines for the under hood area are likely way cheaper than the teflon hose, and more reliable too.
Last edited by griceiv; Jun 1, 2012 at 09:09 AM.
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didn't know there were that much difference between the MC with ABS and without. don't they have the same ports.
i think converting to front/rear split would be kinda dangerous if one line fails, especially if the front fail and only the rear works.
i think converting to front/rear split would be kinda dangerous if one line fails, especially if the front fail and only the rear works.
I'm not sure having a brake failure is any more or less safe in a track environment either way. Plus the car is AWD, so each brake has the ability to apply force to all wheels depending on what the diffs do.
Last edited by griceiv; Jun 1, 2012 at 11:46 AM.
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doesn't the ACD release during braking, hence why i'm getting rear lockup during heavy braking. i guess with viscous coupling, there's always some lockup between front and rear.
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was at track this past weekend and ran hoosier 285 R6 that my friend let me borrow for the first time and didn't get any rear lock up at all, or not that i notice. brake seemed very balance with these tires. but i only use hoosier if there are contingency. so i will still have rear lock up issues when i use NT01 and NT05
Interesting. I had the same problem with my RS when I was on street tires, stock pads, and springs. This all was when I first bought the car. At first it was an autox car, so star specs and hawk HP plus' made a huge difference in reducing rear lock up. Then I installed my Ohlins and had a local race shop corner balance and align the car. That plus r-comps and I've never had an issue. I recently went back to street tires and have done few track event at Road Atlanta(which isn't too had on brakes except for 1 hard braking zone). I've never had lock up at the track, but brand new front rotors got super hot. Evo's are just nose heavy and I've accepted that and adjusted my driving. I really would like to see what you come up with... Maybe once I get a little more competitive
So is there not a system we can buy that would include a dial of sorts to 'dial-in' the brake bias front-to-rear?
Throughout the tracklife of my car, I seem to burn through front pads at about 4-1 compared to the rear. I know the cars are 60-65% front heavy once gutted and before significant weight relocation, but I still think the rear brakes should be doing more. I have nearly always ran the same compounds F/R.
Throughout the tracklife of my car, I seem to burn through front pads at about 4-1 compared to the rear. I know the cars are 60-65% front heavy once gutted and before significant weight relocation, but I still think the rear brakes should be doing more. I have nearly always ran the same compounds F/R.
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this plug and play kit will allow you to dial rear bias but it will also delete the ABS. as stated in earlier posts, cars with ABS use the ABS to control rear bias. so i don't know how you could put a mechanical bias on top of that.
http://www.chasebays.com/product/mit...subishi-evo-49
i think it's normal that you go through more front pads than rear. the front does most of the braking because the weight transfer to front during braking. from all the endurance race i've seen on TV where they have to change pads during race, i don't think i've ever seen them change rear pads.
front and rear pads wear more evenly on street because street tires doesn't transfer as much weight as rcomp tires. and you don't threshold brake on the street.
http://www.chasebays.com/product/mit...subishi-evo-49
i think it's normal that you go through more front pads than rear. the front does most of the braking because the weight transfer to front during braking. from all the endurance race i've seen on TV where they have to change pads during race, i don't think i've ever seen them change rear pads.
front and rear pads wear more evenly on street because street tires doesn't transfer as much weight as rcomp tires. and you don't threshold brake on the street.
Last edited by honda-guy; Jul 3, 2012 at 10:53 AM.
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Nate, if you're not sure the rear is braking as hard as it can, you can disable the ABS and see if you'll get rear lock up before front. if you do, then the rear is braking as hard as it can and the ABS is preventing rear lockup (ABS controlling rear bias). i drive other Evos with ABS on track often and i can definitely feel the ABS working in the rear during hard braking, but usually the car owner don't notice it till point it out while on track.
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