replacement turbo for track car
I don't think you're going to notice much if any difference in spool between the oe unit and the bbk. I would at least ask/talk to chad about it. The green is laggier from what I understand.
Considering the fact that you're on track and not autox, the difference in spool isn't noticeable. On most tracks, you'll always in the powerband. In your latest post of faster spooling stocker, or having a better powerband on top, I would aim for the latter. Also, there is a few good threads that discuss spool characteristics between JB and BB turbos. The spool-up is not very different, but the transient response that is noticeable. The BB will win there. However, you do take the downside of BB not being rebuidable, or more expensive, if they are to go bad. I'm running the HKS personally, and I think its a great turbo for spool and power.
I talked to Chad last night. He gave me good info to chew on. The new BBK full-BB has a slightly different compressor wheel than the JB full.
I fell asleep looking at various dyno charts last night. Focusing mainly on torque curves and where they come in and how quickly they build. (Some of that stuff looks like it would be difficult to drive.)
With my interest mainly being in transient response I'm leaning more towards the BBK full.
Interesting that at least with my information filter the OE 9 turbo is pretty damn good. And the above mentioned are incremental in improvement?.. Yet look really good when compared to an 8 blower.
I fell asleep looking at various dyno charts last night. Focusing mainly on torque curves and where they come in and how quickly they build. (Some of that stuff looks like it would be difficult to drive.)
With my interest mainly being in transient response I'm leaning more towards the BBK full.
Interesting that at least with my information filter the OE 9 turbo is pretty damn good. And the above mentioned are incremental in improvement?.. Yet look really good when compared to an 8 blower.
I talked to Chad last night. He gave me good info to chew on. The new BBK full-BB has a slightly different compressor wheel than the JB full.
I fell asleep looking at various dyno charts last night. Focusing mainly on torque curves and where they come in and how quickly they build. (Some of that stuff looks like it would be difficult to drive.)
With my interest mainly being in transient response I'm leaning more towards the BBK full.
Interesting that at least with my information filter the OE 9 turbo is pretty damn good. And the above mentioned are incremental in improvement?.. Yet look really good when compared to an 8 blower.
I fell asleep looking at various dyno charts last night. Focusing mainly on torque curves and where they come in and how quickly they build. (Some of that stuff looks like it would be difficult to drive.)
With my interest mainly being in transient response I'm leaning more towards the BBK full.
Interesting that at least with my information filter the OE 9 turbo is pretty damn good. And the above mentioned are incremental in improvement?.. Yet look really good when compared to an 8 blower.
I got the FP red bb because it was the same price as the green bb. I want the option to run more power when the engine is built latter on. Low boost on larger turbo is just more reliable and better for turbo and motor, the charged air is not as hot. You give up on initial spool but not much in transient spool with bb turbo. I'll be runing 18-20psi for DE events.
Last edited by honda-guy; Apr 3, 2013 at 08:29 AM.
I got the FP red bb because it was the same price as the green bb. I want the option to run more power when the engine is built latter on. Low boost on larger turbo is just more reliable and better for turbo and motor, the charged air is not as hot. You give up on initial spool but not much in transient spool with bb turbo. I'll be runing 18-20psi for DE events. 

Man all this info is awesome. I have a ton of shaft play in my evo 9 turbo so it needs a rebuild or a new turbo. I was leaning towards a FP red BB but I hesitate now since it seems like the BBK line is the prefered roadcourse turbo. The car right now has a stocl Evo 8 long block. I plan to add cams in the next year or sooner. So my goal is a round 400 on pump.
Not many people do this, so I am going to post about it. I am running a 2.3l with the stock 8 turbo, 10.5 hotside, and it is CRAZY! The torque comes on so strong that it is alarming, dangerous to drive in the rain. It is really a fast car though, just a tick quicker than my FZ1! I've only had it on track once, my next race is in a few weeks, we will see how it stacks up then and I'll report back.
Although a bolt on stock frame turbo is an easy fix and offers good power I have a few concerns over it.
After reading somewhere that the EGT's get a little high after a couple laps I started to grow concerned. That person didn't name how high they were but it was an issue. That was 26 psi on a popular stock frame turbo after a couple laps.
The stock housing is only going to flow so much air no matter how ported/coated it is . This plus higher boost/backpressure could elevate the egt's and reduce turbo life or burn/bend valves in the longer run. It could also put more of a strain on the cooling system because of the added exhaust gas temp. I know one guy that drag races a small turbo at high boost/backpressure and his exh valves were bent on both rebuilds.
To the guys that have tracked their stock frame turbo for 20+ minutes, did you have an EGT gauge? Or backpressure sensor? I would be really interested in the data.
From the research I've done so far, the HTA 3076R seems to make great power and spool like an FP Red( 4000-4400) if you get into the T3 stuff.
After reading somewhere that the EGT's get a little high after a couple laps I started to grow concerned. That person didn't name how high they were but it was an issue. That was 26 psi on a popular stock frame turbo after a couple laps.
The stock housing is only going to flow so much air no matter how ported/coated it is . This plus higher boost/backpressure could elevate the egt's and reduce turbo life or burn/bend valves in the longer run. It could also put more of a strain on the cooling system because of the added exhaust gas temp. I know one guy that drag races a small turbo at high boost/backpressure and his exh valves were bent on both rebuilds.
To the guys that have tracked their stock frame turbo for 20+ minutes, did you have an EGT gauge? Or backpressure sensor? I would be really interested in the data.
From the research I've done so far, the HTA 3076R seems to make great power and spool like an FP Red( 4000-4400) if you get into the T3 stuff.
Last edited by Abacus; Oct 14, 2013 at 03:55 PM.






