Curious what you guys are using, either track or auto-x for brake pads. This is specifically for cars running Hoosier A6/R6, Kumho V710's, BFG R1 or R1's or non-dot slicks.

Please post your weight, WHP, Tire size, brake pad, rotor selection. And lastly, typical life duration for rotors and pads.

2930lbs
397whp
285/30/18
Hawk Blue
Baer Eradi Speed II

I've had accelerated wear in auto-x only conditions. Rotors are just over a year old, pads have about 6-7 events on them. Both are almost in need of immediate replacement.

Hawk HP+ lasted over 1.5 seasons but did not have the necessary braking power.

 

The accelerated wear that you are experiencing is probably because you are not getting the Blues up to temp. I would do some testing with a laser pyrometer to see what temps you are reaching in auto-x, and then look for pads to suit those conditions.

My car:
3265 lbs
370 hp
255/30/18 A/R6
Hawk DTC-70
Perf. Friction two piece rotors
2" ducts
Ti shims

 

3002lbs w/Me
398whp
245-40-18 A6/R6 and 265-35-18 R1S
Brembo GT Brakes, 355X32
Hawk DTC70's on all 4.
NO ducting.

I went all last season on one set of pads. 3-Blackhawks, 1-Brainerd, 1 Road-Merica plus a few autoX's

 

Agreed, blue's are far too ancient and aggressive for auto-x, shed at cold temps, and generally ruin everything they touch including wheel finishes. I'd do a pair of carbotech's if I was doing AX again. XP8's likely on A6's or the new AX specific compound. 10's or 12's or DTC70's or Fed DS1.11's etc etc any of the usual suspects for full length tracks of course.

 

3200lbs with me after a race
345whp at RRE
265/645/18 (its narrower than a 275/35/18 r6/a6)
Raybestos ST43
Girodisc 2pc

When i was racing in ST2 id usually change my pads/rotors after 3 weekends. Something else id keep in mind...dynos vary. Thats nothing new but worth keeping track of. Here in CA there are dynos that read around 10-20% lower than RRE. So you cant purely compare setups based on what power people say they make.

 

3031 lbs with myself.
340 whp
245/40R17 Kumho V710's
Hawk HP Plus
Centric Premium blanks

This was my Autox setup. Non ABS car. Pads lasted 2 seasons along with the rotors. Once I started to DE the car I moved back to street tires with Carbotech pads.

I liked the pad bite and feel without abs. Probably could have gone with a more aggressive pad, but it worked great for my budget

I briefly used DBA 4000 series rotors with the HP PLUS'. I noticed faster wear due to the slotted rotors.

Cb

 

3550 lbs
320 hp track tune on dyno jet
BFG R1's 265/35/18
Power Slot Rotors
ST 43
Ti Shim
Air Guides/fog delete
8 DE 4 Autox
Rotors and pads still have 20% life. Just bought new ones and switched to the Colbalts for this season.

Bueller - are your 265/645's non-dot? Are you running a baffled oil pan? I'm thinking of going to non-dot but am scared to do it without extra oiling.

 

I run raybestos ST47 fronts and ST43 rear. SOOOOOOoooooo much better than any Carbotech I've ever had.

Weight = 3400
Tires = BFG R1 255/40/17
Rotor = Racing Brake solids

 

^+1^ for ST47 all around

 

The Hawk blues have the best intitial bite and trailing control. They operate at very high temps best but have a high wear rate on good iron rotors. When operating well your iron will be deposited as rust on your body. A decent trade off with the staggering performance blues have. I switched to DTC pads which are linear and consistant with less rotor wear. Caliper stretching became a issue. I upgaded to a full pro set up and switched to PFC 01 pads. They are similar to the DTC but are hard to compare with the balance bar used.

 

3250 lbs with me in the car
310-350 whp
275/35/18 a6 for TT, 275/40/17 nt05 for DE
Centric blank rotors
2" brake duct

I mainly use st43 for DE on street tires, they provide enough torque and last pretty long. For TT, ive used dtc60/dtc70/st47/rc6/dsuno/xp12

I do about 30 track days a year and go through about 2 sets of front rotors and 3-4 sets of front pads. About 2 sets of rear pads.