I just picked up my tow rig for the Evo: 07 Chevy 2500HD w/ LBZ Duramax and 6spd Allison. Totally overkill for a little evo, but I wanted the longevity, fuel mileage, and torque.

Now I need a trailer.

I don't have the space nor the budget to buy enclosed, or large trailers. I'm considering a entry level 18' treated wood deck trailer - 16' with a dovetail. This one has 3500lb axles with electric brakes. It includes 4' ramps, which I'm worried may not be quite enough to load my evo, especially if it is lowered.

Is it easy to buy/build bigger ramps?





The final details would be straps, tiedowns, d-rings. I want to be as safe as possible, but I don't need to spend a fortune. It seems like I can either use axle straps, or wheel nets, perhaps a combination. What works the best? Wheel nets look very convenient, but seem to be more rare. I like the idea of the suspension not being loaded by the straps.

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/category/WheelNets

What do people here use? I'm a trailering newbie, so assume I know nothing.

 

There's a towing thread on this motorsport forum if you search, been awhile since we've seen it but it's there.

Welcome to Duramax land, you won't be disappointed, exhaust and tune will get you 23+mpg.

We all shy away from wheel anything so look for T-hooks which slide in on the OEM locations under the chassis. Axel straps in the rear are fine, there's T hook locations there too. Again reff the older towing thread for pics. MAC's is the place for all of that, for sure, so your on target there. I'd suggest the direct bolt option esp if your car is low on a shorter trailer like that.

Trailer wise it's to each their own. I personally have a wood deck trailer like that but it's open in the middle so just 3 2x6's on each side. Thompson treatment is your friend. Ramp wise if you are low and have a big splitter crank the trailer up so the deck goes low in the rear, and if that's not enough you can cut 2x12's and extend it out from there on the cheap. Use 2x6's or 4x4's under the board/ramps to keep the weight distributed.

If you want longivity out of an open desk trailer i'd suggest looking at the alum ones as well. It's not like the duramax can't tow it, but you wont' have to mess with the yearly sometimes monthly paint touchups to keep the rust at bay. Plus they hold their value much better if/when you decide to trade up. Also ask for the all stainless hardware option if you get one built.

 

I can only contribute to this thread by posting the link to the thread Balrok is referring to. I read through the thread for a good informational read and to see how you guys tow your evos...some very nice tow rigs out there!!

GL!!

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...-have-use.html

 

The truck has a EGR Delete, PCV Reroute, Downpipe and Turboback exhaust. Never been tuned... yet.



As for the tiedowns, I didn't know about the factory tiedown locations. Photos would definitely help. I looked at the link SilverShadow posted, and have seen this thread first, but all I found was talk about which trucks. Not the tiedown gory details....

Looking at the MAC offerings, it sounds like I want either:
Regular Ratchet Pack
Direct Hook Ratchets

I'm not sure which ratchets are better. Anybody have a strong preference?

 

For tying down, I personally hook to the front center hook on the subframe and run that to each side corner of the trailer. In the rear, I loop the strap over the subframe and bring one end straight back and one end to the corner. I get the rear tight and synch it from the front.

Its worked great for the last couple years, but always willing to entertain other ideas.

I personally don't like tying to the wheels though. Id rather compress the suspension and have the car held down rather than floating around.

 

I've been trying to do a little research on strapping down by either the sprung or unsprung (wheels or frame/suspension) and I can't find any consensus.

On motorcycles I've heard more people complain that cranking down and loading the suspension is harder on the springs/shocks than strapping down the wheels and allowing the suspension to work unloaded.

For cars, I can see either way... my only thought is that when shipped from the factory they use factory holes (i guess the ones for the T-hooks?).

I guess the real question is, which causes more wear, compressing the suspension (car + strap weight) or fixing the wheels (car only)?

 

I too am just now venturing into my track car becoming a trailer queen. I ended up with a similar trailer except in steel (didn't want to deal with fluids damaging the wood). I haven't even towed the car with it yet but I might have some info that's helpful.

First on Mac's Custom Tie Downs, their custom wheel nets are $100. EACH. That's a ton of money man. Very expensive. Plus lead time was I think 2-3 weeks.

Other places make nets but every place I talked to actually tried to talk me out of them because they said they are a pain in the *** to use. I would have thought once you adjusted them to your tires they would just throw over the tires and strap down but everyone was telling me that isn't the case and you spend a decent amount of time fiddling every time you strap in the car. I don't know if that's true but I believed them. With Mac's of course that wouldn't be an issue since they are custom sized to your tires and method of strapping but you gotta pay quite a bit for that

My track car has a lot of low profile aero and is pretty wide so I couldn't use your typical solutions like strapping outboard of the car (was concerned something might ding the car). I opted to go with the E Track system to allow me to route straps down and flat along the trailer bed. With that I am going to be trying out these:

http://www.autohaulersupply.com/cata...-x3-552225.php

I'm not entirely sold on the idea but have been told they work just fine despite no obvious side support like with a net. We'll see as my next track event is next weekend.

As for clearance, if your ramps are too short you can look at some Race Ramps which will basically extend your ramps and give you a shallower incline. I will be exploring those as I have a huge splitter only 4" off the ground and I don't want to pop the bumper cover off for loading/unloading every time if I can help it.

 

You gotta think farther. Say you're in an accident situation or the trailer has stepped out at 70+mph, but then swings back violently the other way so forth, or both of you are going sideways in the grass/ditch/ice, you really think those kind of G's, and tire "nets" are going to cut it? Or would you rather "attach" the actual car structure to the trailer. Esp in open trailers. It's your 60k+ race car


Here's the older threads we were referring to:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...locations.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...ler-setup.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...formation.html

Should likely merge and sticky these, it doesn't come up often, but considering the other stickies this matches, either that or merge these into the two rigs lol.

 

FWIW. We have always ran straps through the wheels on all the Porsche Cup's and RSR's. Not the nets or the tire straps, but through the wheels... More than one way to skin a cat

 

^^ How often are the valve stems in the way?

Use to do it that way on my old car, always seemed to be one right in the wrong spot.

 

True story lol. I guess with the BBS wheels there is enough spokes to choose from to avoid that issue.

 

Thanks for the links! I definitely am glad to have a visual on the front t-hooks. Unfortunately nobody put up a photo of the rear points?

I feel like starting a poll of where people strap their evos down from. It's surprising that there isn't an established standard or well explained reason for chassis vs wheels.