Just go with the 17x8.5 +30 rpf1's. Fits 255's on coilovers, no spacers, no rolling.

 

Haha see now you are making this harder

 

More on going with a larger offset, you can always add a spacer for a little extra clearance but cant take it away. Also, you want to be able to rotate front/rear so stick with common offset.

I do have a 2 year old set of 17x10 +38 with 255 zII's and maybe 30% life left on them that I'll be getting rid of here soon. Dont even remember what I paid for them at this point, but they have maybe 3k miles on them and bunch of autoX runs at the local course (hoosiers at the bigger course).

Havent posted them for sale yet, but my 18x10's are going to take over street tires for 285s and just ordered PF01 in 18x10.5 for the hoosiers. All +38

 

I still think you should get a used set of Volks. If you just want to run a 255 tires, look for 17x8.5 +30 and 17x9 +35. There are deals out there

17x9+35 CE28s with Dunlop direzza tires for $2500 negotiable.
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/1112...e-time-attack/

CE28N 17x8.5 +30 in Rays Black Chrome (RBC) coating $1900 obo.
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=1093049

Ce28n Bronze 17x8.5 +30 $1950 FRIM.
https://hashb.ag/teknice33/771793987522023237

Gunmetal 17 inch volk ce28n $1700shipped
https://hashb.ag/wmalone_s2k/772639087275134536

 

having been through 8 sets of wheels on my car, i'd still say stick with 9.5" wheels for 255 tires, in case you ever want to run larger 265 or 275 tires.

 

[QUOTE=honda-guy;11401324]having been through 8 sets of wheels on my car, i'd still say stick with 9.5" wheels for 255 tires, in case you ever want to run larger 265 or 275 tires.[/QUOTE

Thanks for all of that research nemsin! Unfortunately just a little out of my price range at this moment. Honda-guy makes a very good point. I will eventually go wider. Everyone here that has made an imput thank you. All info was helpful I'll keep it updated. Most likely will purchase the +18 all around only because I bought the car will rolled femders already and have multiple responses on no rubbing issues on a autocross course as well as on a track. Just makes the most sense to me at this point.

 

This will be my last attempt and then I'll give up. Do not get the +18. This is the motorsport section where people actually test these sorts of things as their cars are put through the paces and the suspension will go through its entire stroke as its loaded during hard cornering, braking, hitting the curbs etc.

We are all telling you that the higher offset wheels is the ones to go with i.e +38 not +18! Not to degrade what other people folks are telling you but please bare with me for a second. You mentioned that people say the +18 is fine but there are a lot of variables to consider. Ride height camber tire size specific tire type of driving just to name a few. Not all 255 tires are the same width and more specifically generally speaking high performance tires will run wider than a typical all season tire.

Why limit yourself with tire size down the road and risk it when the clear better setup is the +38 with a spacer?

 

You will run into fitment issues with 255+ tires and +18 offset wheels. Remember its not just the fenders you have to worry about, with such a low offest you will rub your front arches on full lock.

People have been test fitting wheels to Evos for years. The results are in: 17/18x8+38, 17/18x8.5+30, and 17/18x9+35 are the best fitments for Evo 8/9.

That's the info. You decide how/if to use it.

P.S. You can run up to a 265 tire on a 9" wheel.

 

Im running the rpf1's 17x 9 +35 255/40 toyo R888 tires. I am just running a 20mm spacer and extended studs up front. This will be my first year getting into some autocross events.

 

will the extended studs be an issue when I put the stock BBS's back on?

 

Nope not at all. You'll just need to source some open ended mag seat lug nuts or alternatively just cut off the caps of your stock lug nuts. I choose the latter since I have snows on my stock wheels that I use for winter duty and they have been holding up fine. There is no structural part to the tops of the lug nuts in case that is a concern.

 

JM fab spacers are 50 bucks cheaper than Ichiba spacers. Is there any reason to pick one over the other?

 

the JMFab spacers are pass through and needs extended studs. aren't the ichiba bolt in style spacers? id recommend pass through style spacers for track.