Yes, obv as in pulling HARD left on the road atlanta back straight when I was about 90ish mph. It started turning better left then right on the first lap then I was like WTF during that straight run. Had very very little play when I jacked it up but once I took it apart in the garage the bearing housing litterally fell out of the hub. The "grease" around the ball's were all gummy and hard. My rears weren't nearly as bad but I don't launch like ya'll do for AX. So in RR you'll loose fronts first, in AX you'll loose rears sounds like.

 

this is a perfect reminder to torque your axle nuts properly (which may not be the torque value the service manual recommends).

if the axle nut is not tight enough you will fatigue both the hub and the splined portion of the axle and it will break off.

I torque front and rear axle nuts to at least 250 ft-lbs, though the math says (75% yield) a nut that sized could be torqued to near 400 ft-lbs without issue. the 159 ft-lbs the manual recommends is perfectly fine for street driving.

 

How do you get yours torqued that high? Im guessing car running to power brakes and a mega torque wrench? Id guess Im somewhere around 200lbs but my wrench doesn't go that high so its just tight as hell + a little.

 

i stand on just over a foot of breaker bar. then tighten more until the cotter pin lines up.

 

So I don't know if this is a location where I would use the 70% yield rule but I may check mine just in case since I know I didn't put much thought in to the torque.