Road Race/HPDE Evo 8 track-ability
Hondabond is unbelievable stuff.
I don't track my evo but I have kept up somewhat with track folks and talked to fellow Evo time trial guys over the years (so that I might have a head start if I ever totaled my current race car). The two things that come to mind in regards to mods needed for a track Evo 8/9 are:
1) camshaft position sensor heat shield (moreso if your exhaust manifold is not properly shielded)
2) front lower control arm ball joint heat shield
I don't track my evo but I have kept up somewhat with track folks and talked to fellow Evo time trial guys over the years (so that I might have a head start if I ever totaled my current race car). The two things that come to mind in regards to mods needed for a track Evo 8/9 are:
1) camshaft position sensor heat shield (moreso if your exhaust manifold is not properly shielded)
2) front lower control arm ball joint heat shield
Last edited by TSiAWD666; Jun 16, 2015 at 12:38 PM.
you'll definitely need heat shield for lower ball joint and tie rod if you remove the rotor heat shield for brake ducts.
If you're possibly looking for an evo IX, I'm probably selling mine. Basically just a DE car that I drive to/from the events. Doing a two day event at Lime Rock next month, and that might be the last event for her before I put it up for sale. Have had zero issues since buying it in 2008, and I feel I've gotten it to a great point of being drivable on the street but feels balanced and predictable on the track.
I've been digging for these nuggets over the years and kinda came up with the following list in order of perceived importance; wished there was a sticky. My chick and I HPDE my ~300whp DD typically back to back so ~40min duty cycle in the faster street car groups (NASA 3/4, etc).
0. Obvious, but make sure you've done all the maintenance on the car (all hoses, belts, seals, good fluids, boost leak check -> throttle seals, fuel pump / filter, and probably EGR delete). The cars are getting old. I had a rubber turbo water line let go which was a bummer.
1. Older cars will likely have beat intercooler (oil coated interior) & oil coolers (flat fins), probably should replace those.
2. Seems universal to run a Kiggly HLA and overfill a bit at minimum for oil control.
3. This might be more specific to Californians with our awesome fuel, but do as much as you can to reduce back pressure and get a safe tune. Not suggesting this for power, but reliability. Also enable the knock CEL so you can curb the enthusiasm if the motor gets too hot. We've run the fuel tank pretty low and haven't seemed to have any issues.
4. When getting a tune consider SD so you can make it off track when you pop an intercooler pipe. Had to get towed for that once, managed to limp off other times.
5. Everyone has their brake pad opinions; we're on PF08s / centric blank rotors and probably should have cooling but don't yet. The rear brakes don't seem to do much at my level. ABS is amazing to me on split mu surfaces, curbs, etc...
6. As stated before insulate the lower ball joints. I threaded safety wire thru header wrap then wrapped it in metal tape. Seems to be working well. Also if you're running a roll center kit you can get the superior factory rubber boots vs. crap white line bits.
7. I've tried a couple tranny fluids and found the factory 6-speed stuff to be the best shifting. Be sure to do the clutch adjustment procedure to save your syncros since you'll be shifting at high revs all day. Also when the clutch comes out install the ACT Monoloc. We had the TO bearing come loose and had to drive the car 5-hours home w/o the clutch once. Lastly, replace the front motor mount to get some of the drivetrain lash under control.
8. There's a thread for tow hooks. I've not suffered too bad not having one yet, but did see a car pulled by the A-pillars a couple events ago.
9. Re-stack the rear diff. Consider having the transfer case serviced and big bolts installed. Jack's installed a used front RS LSD for +$200.
10. Stock suspension handles 'well' but eats tires. This is a very personal decision but I'd advise going straight to quality coil-overs (AST, Ohlins) and both swaybars. In my experience the rear bar alone sucked, leading to understeer all over the place. I'd also advise being selective if electing to install aftermarket bushings. For the most part the stock ones have a nice performance vs. NVH balance.
0. Obvious, but make sure you've done all the maintenance on the car (all hoses, belts, seals, good fluids, boost leak check -> throttle seals, fuel pump / filter, and probably EGR delete). The cars are getting old. I had a rubber turbo water line let go which was a bummer.
1. Older cars will likely have beat intercooler (oil coated interior) & oil coolers (flat fins), probably should replace those.
2. Seems universal to run a Kiggly HLA and overfill a bit at minimum for oil control.
3. This might be more specific to Californians with our awesome fuel, but do as much as you can to reduce back pressure and get a safe tune. Not suggesting this for power, but reliability. Also enable the knock CEL so you can curb the enthusiasm if the motor gets too hot. We've run the fuel tank pretty low and haven't seemed to have any issues.
4. When getting a tune consider SD so you can make it off track when you pop an intercooler pipe. Had to get towed for that once, managed to limp off other times.
5. Everyone has their brake pad opinions; we're on PF08s / centric blank rotors and probably should have cooling but don't yet. The rear brakes don't seem to do much at my level. ABS is amazing to me on split mu surfaces, curbs, etc...
6. As stated before insulate the lower ball joints. I threaded safety wire thru header wrap then wrapped it in metal tape. Seems to be working well. Also if you're running a roll center kit you can get the superior factory rubber boots vs. crap white line bits.
7. I've tried a couple tranny fluids and found the factory 6-speed stuff to be the best shifting. Be sure to do the clutch adjustment procedure to save your syncros since you'll be shifting at high revs all day. Also when the clutch comes out install the ACT Monoloc. We had the TO bearing come loose and had to drive the car 5-hours home w/o the clutch once. Lastly, replace the front motor mount to get some of the drivetrain lash under control.
8. There's a thread for tow hooks. I've not suffered too bad not having one yet, but did see a car pulled by the A-pillars a couple events ago.
9. Re-stack the rear diff. Consider having the transfer case serviced and big bolts installed. Jack's installed a used front RS LSD for +$200.
10. Stock suspension handles 'well' but eats tires. This is a very personal decision but I'd advise going straight to quality coil-overs (AST, Ohlins) and both swaybars. In my experience the rear bar alone sucked, leading to understeer all over the place. I'd also advise being selective if electing to install aftermarket bushings. For the most part the stock ones have a nice performance vs. NVH balance.
Last edited by Nimpoc; Oct 20, 2015 at 05:32 PM.
I was PM'ing with Balrok a couple months ago about this. Here's what he said. Hopefully he'll see the thread and chime in more:
"As far as the two pans, the Bush pan doesn't add but 1-2 psi so it's worthless. The AMS pan leaks no matter what you do so i'm not too impressed with it. There is an option in NZ but we haven't seen it stateside yet."
For now I'm currently just overfilling a bit. I'm not on rcomps, only 255 rs3, so hopefully the pressure loss isn't overly bad.
"As far as the two pans, the Bush pan doesn't add but 1-2 psi so it's worthless. The AMS pan leaks no matter what you do so i'm not too impressed with it. There is an option in NZ but we haven't seen it stateside yet."
For now I'm currently just overfilling a bit. I'm not on rcomps, only 255 rs3, so hopefully the pressure loss isn't overly bad.
^^ not as much comment as I would have thought on brakes/cooling above. are we ok with good fluid and aftermarket pads? no need for any ducting etc for the 350whp and down range?
general question: what does the car/engine do when it oil starves?
A completely stock Evo VIII is just fine. I ran mine all day without any problems (Buttonwillow). I do suggest pads and brake fluid in case you are aggressive. There's nothing more disappointing than having to cut the session short due to brake fade.
No need for all the fancy stuff or to over think it.
I even used the same wheels and tires I drove to the track on and had a blast.
No need for all the fancy stuff or to over think it.
I even used the same wheels and tires I drove to the track on and had a blast.
Last edited by kaj; Dec 3, 2015 at 12:43 PM.
A completely stock Evo VIII is just fine. I ran mine all day without any problems (Buttonwillow). I do suggest pads and brake fluid in case you are aggressive. There's nothing more disappointing than having to cut the session short due to brake fade.
No need for all the fancy stuff or to over think it.
I even used the same wheels and tires I drove to the track on and had a blast.
No need for all the fancy stuff or to over think it.
I even used the same wheels and tires I drove to the track on and had a blast.
You can easily cook the seals in my opinion. Ever since I went to the rb stainless Pistons I replace my deals at minimum once a season but usually more, and I still get some weeping when cold
Those pads are okay. My first track day was with OEM pads. I wasn't happy LOL.
Other than that, just go and enjoy yourself. Even with all OEM stuff, I had a ton of fun, I just wasn't setting any lap records LOL