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Oh yeah, the small stuff seems great. Though I've been using onlinecarbide for their 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" end mills. They're ZRN coated and rip pretty well. I don't think they have much in advanced geometries, but they work great for me and are cheap.
I also have a tool supply about a mile from work and they have YG1 for great prices and seem to have everything in stock.
I've been looking around at different manufacturers lately just to see what's out there. Seems like everyone sells a plethora of different coated bits. Have you messed around with different coatings? Is there a certain coating that'd be best for dry cutting aluminum?
Cant really do spherical on both, its just a two point member and not straight. So it will sag without one end to locate it in rotation. Might be able to do that with a spherical and filling with urethane or something though?
Although pretty heavy, could some sort of sealed roller bearing pressed in to the arm work instead?
I've been looking around at different manufacturers lately just to see what's out there. Seems like everyone sells a plethora of different coated bits. Have you messed around with different coatings? Is there a certain coating that'd be best for dry cutting aluminum?
ZRN is the **** for aluminum. Also, anything with an "a" in the acronym has some amount of aluminum something and will stick to aluminum. Those are for ferrous or other materials.
Originally Posted by bee-raddd
Yea our last race is in april haha
Hah, thats what I thought. When Ive been to whistler during out winter its full of Australians because its their summer. So they go back and forth between the seasons.
Originally Posted by TimC909
Although pretty heavy, could some sort of sealed roller bearing pressed in to the arm work instead?
It actually does need some amount of articulation because the arc path isnt a single plane. Im wondering if I can actually make a 2 piece control arm for the rear and get rid of the multi point connection. Do something just a little different than OEM while still using all the factory mounts.
ZRN is the **** for aluminum. Also, anything with an "a" in the acronym has some amount of aluminum something and will stick to aluminum. Those are for ferrous or other materials.
Glad to hear. I just bought a 3 flute zrn coated carbide endmill from Helical today. I'm really excited to see how much better it's going to do over the uncoated 2 flute HSS endmill I was using before.
I noticed on the Tormach that after going over 1/4" I wasn't really getting much more in removal rate (MRR). It just didn't have the spindle power to push a bigger end mill harder. The biggest difference was being able to get deeper. Always an issue trying to get deep without chatter.
I've been reading the tech articles on Helical's website and they're really helpful for a noob like me. I don't think I can go a ton faster with the motor I've got but I should be able to get much better surface finish. I'm going to try and change my toolpathing a bit and reduce RDOC and increase ADOC.
I made a desktop cnc to play around with at home. It's not too bad for only being a little project. Nice thing is, I work in a machine shop. So I can test out a lot of different tools before purchasing them for home use. If you don't need a big LOC. Ingersoll makes a nice chip surfer. The spindle I used on my machine takes ER20 collets. You can buy an ER20 collet with threads and buy a chip surfer you want that actually screws into them. Makes it nice when you don't have a tool setter and you want repeatability for your tool library. They also have high polished inserts for aluminum. I have always been a fan of ingersoll tooling. This wk at work, I been drilling 3.125 diameter holes thru 8" thick stainless steel. Each ring has 26 holes. I'm doing all 26 holes in 96 minutes and on the same index
WTF, thats mind boggling to drill that deep with that small of a tool in stainless. Can you even do through spindle coolant that small? Seems like it would have to much of an effect on strength of the drill at that size.
Maybe he meant 3.125" holes? But that's a pretty massive drill bit. Regardless, it's pretty nuts you can do that many holes in stainless on the same index. Must be some quality bits.
The mill I've been using has a puny ER11 collet so I'm pretty restricted on the tooling I can use. Fortunately it's got an auto Z zeroing feature so being relatively consistent between tooling changes isn't too hard.
I've been trying to think of an easy way to rig up a simplistic coolant system for it. Right now I stop the mill every 5-10 minutes, vacuum off the piece and flood the piece with some WD40. But on longer ops it's kind of annoying to have to stop it so much.
WTF, thats mind boggling to drill that deep with that small of a tool in stainless. Can you even do through spindle coolant that small? Seems like it would have to much of an effect on strength of the drill at that size.
3.125" not .125" lol. I'm running thru the spindle coolant. 400rpms at 2.3IPM. It's an adjustable Q drill by ingersoll. Eventually I'm going to try and push it a little harder. But it's not that slow and I'm getting great tool life
Made 2 sets of these coaxial spring perches to go with the 303ss spacers that showed up friday. Was just out of some scraps I had sitting around so dont yet have a batch done but ordering material to do both the other parts for 10sets.
On the rear trailing arm theme, it seems I was generating some more grip this weekend at Laguna and did quite a job on the right side.
Before just replacing the arm to get more clearance, has anyone figured out where the most likely compliance is in the system to cause the contact?
I've installed the Energy front bushing on the trailing arm, and Whiteline toe correction bushing. Otherwise it's all stock back there. Replaced the rear wheel bearings maybe 5k ago.
Wheels are RPF1 17x9.5+38, 255/40-17 RC-1's. -2deg camber with the slightest toe in.
Little bit of rubbing on the rear trailing arm.
Yup, pretty deep.
Last edited by Nimpoc; Feb 28, 2018 at 12:59 PM.
Reason: Forgot some details
Feb 22, 2018, 08:47 AM
