Its not impossible to get this done. But, you are going to have to get a group of cars together in your area (some preped sti's and evo's who show up to races in T1) go to your scca division with the argument that we have these cars which are outclassed in T1, but have good participation. And you want your own regional class within the division. Call it T3 or whatever. You will have to run in T1 if you want to participate in a national race, but in the normal regional/national weekend you could have your own race on saturday and run in T1 on sunday.

I know this would be difficult to get done, but it is how new national classes eventually get started.

 

Not a bad idea. I just want to get the car finished and get on the track already....

 

Just an update: My cage is going in now and the vinyl is going on. The car is set to do a shakedown on the 23rd of January. Never meant to hijack the thread, but I since we both been discussing our progress, I thought here was as good a place as any.

 

post pix when its done.

 

Why wait until it's done, post some pics please

 

If you want some power sneak in cams, a fuel pump, and bigger injectors and raise the boost to 24 lbs. Get that reflashed and you probally are making as much power as you can. No one would know about the pump or the cams, and 24 lbs of boost can be made with the reflash and some work on the boost lines.

 

I have been thinking about these mods but honestly right now, I want to be able to extract the most out of the car. Makes no sense having a really fast car if you don't have a really fast driver. I will seek more power once I feel I am driving the car as hard as it can be driven but up until that point, I would rather spend my money on getting track time.

 

Hey,

I just got back from testing the Evo a the PBOC winterfest event at Sebring. The biggest thing I learned this weekend is that racing truly is a team sport and if the team isn't working right, there is very little the driver can do to go fast. Thank god I learned this lesson in testing.

Anyways, the Evo was a blast and I love being back on sebring. It took a couple of sessions to adjust my line as I learned the track in a RWD Panoz. Driving the Evo required alot of trail braking to kill understeer and finese on the throttle exiting some of the corners or understeer would pop up there too.

I was running the Yokohama A032R Hard compund tires. They felt really good and gave nice feedback, but with the low temps at Sebring over the weekend, it was hard to keep them at optimal temps. The cage added alot of rigidity and with some of Sebring's high speed corners you could really feel the difference. The car felt more settled.

I ran 0 alignment, being 0 camber, 0 toe all round to feel out the car. The wear on the tires was interesting as the weave (the pattern the R compounds make when they get hot) crossed over on the sidewall of the tire more than we expected. This car rolls alot, and the tires take up alot of that slack.

I also did not get my ECU flash yet either. I really wanted to just baseline the car so I had an idea of what I was working with. Wehn we started I was turning lap times of about 2:52, but as we got the tire pressures dailed in (and I shoook off some of my rust), my lap times, dipped into the 2:40's, then the 2:30's and by the end of my last session, I was clicking off high 2:36's. I thought that was a hell of an improvement considering it was my first time with the car on the track and all we changed were tire pressures.

I have some pictures so I will post a few now and more tomorrow.

 

Misc Pics of the Evo and others

 

Nitrogen in the tires will help you keep the right pressure once you find it. Also, trail braking seems to be the best way to get the nose-heavy SOB to turn in, but be careful when it rains as trail braking will make it easy to spin out. I wouldn't advise going into a corner off-throttle when it's wet out.

Does your car have a front LSD? The main reason I want an '05 or IX is because the inside front tire loves to break loose coming out of turns, especially tight ones.

EDIT: I have an '03 that's why I don't have front LSD.

EDIT2: I would run as much camber as you can get up front, especially w/ stock springs. There is a bolt on the front camber settings with 2 positions: -1 and -2. In actuality my car on the -2 setting is more like -1.8, but it's still a great improvement. In the back I have -2 just to stay on the safe side. I tried it with -1.8 on the front and 0 on the back, and it became a little too tail happy. Your results may vary. This is all with 0 toe. If you play with the rear toe I'll bet you could make it as tail happy as you wanted it to be, and some toe on the front might give you a bit better turn-in.

 

More pice. Wicked little M coupe, and one of the RTR M3s.

 

No LSD. Replace the transfer case with another sotck unit. Going to put the Quaiffe LSD in the old transfer case once itcomes out.

Knew about the nitrogen, but we didn't have any availilbe. I also plan to leave the drives side static camber lower cause I am really fat and I think my weight will change it. Kaylaap (user here on EvoM) recommend some suspension setting that sound similar to yours except he has a bit of rear toe. Going to play with it a bit and see what I like.

 

Last set for now.

 

FYI The shop where I had my camber adjusted let me sit in the car while they did it and the camber wasn't significantly more on the driver's side (I weigh about 220 lbs). Also, if the tracks are run clockwise that seems like an even better reason to have more negative camber on the driver's side, but IDK I don't do real-deal racing. It's good you plan on playing with the camber and toe settings though, because I can feel a huge difference from the different settings.

 

Here are some pics of the evo on the track taken by a REAL camera man.