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oil temps
has anyone upgraded the oil coolers on their cars? my oil temp goes up to 120C (or a little past that) during HPDEs and i'm wondering if i need to or should upgrade anything.
thanks |
I hit 120c regulary at the track. I saw 135c+ 3 weeks ago at buttonwillow in 97F+ heat but that's because my head studs got cranky and decided to stretch. :eek:
One thing to keep in mind is your water temps go hand in hand with oil temps. 128c+ oil temps is when you want to slow down. It really depends on your oil type too. Some are ok to 140c I use a 10w-30 and 20w-50 oil cocktail to be safe. |
I did my hottest road racing this past weekend (90+) in La Junta, CO, and I was peaking at 110C*. It was a 1.5-mile course that was very fast to the point that I was averaging 92.3mph on my best lap while running 25-26psi. 110C is the highest I've seen it go in any occasion. At my last track event in March, it was only 50-60* outside, and my temps stayed at 100C or lower. I have no upgraded cooling items - stock FMIC, stock radiator, stock oil cooler, stock Mobil 1 oil, etc, but I do spray alky, which cools the intake charge.
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kzevo, where is your temp sender located?
that makes a difference... n |
When I HPDE my Eclipse, my oil temps get to be pretty high. First few runs were ~230-240*F, and by the end of the day the gauge was maxed out a little past 250*F. Getting way up there... I am still on the car's stock oil cooler and from what I've ready, 2g oil coolers suck. I should upgrade it but I'd rather put the money into my Evo, but we'll see. I had AMSoil 1030 synth. in there which is good oil. This was going around Mid-Ohio, which is ~ 2.25 miles which has that nice long straight...
Hell, my oil temps get to be ~ 230 on hot days battling traffic on my way home from work. What did you mean buy water temps and oil temps go hand in hand? My water temps were pretty stable the whole weekend not going above 210, though the oil temps kept rising as the day went on. Just because one is rising doesn't mean the other will do the same. |
Originally Posted by Talon
What did you mean buy water temps and oil temps go hand in hand? My water temps were pretty stable the whole weekend not going above 210, though the oil temps kept rising as the day went on. Just because one is rising doesn't mean the other will do the same. |
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I did my hottest road racing this past weekend (90+) in La Junta, CO, and I was peaking at 110C*. It was a 1.5-mile course that was very fast to the point that I was averaging 92.3mph on my best lap while running 25-26psi. 110C is the highest I've seen it go in any occasion. At my last track event in March, it was only 50-60* outside, and my temps stayed at 100C or lower. I have no upgraded cooling items - stock FMIC, stock radiator, stock oil cooler, stock Mobil 1 oil, etc, but I do spray alky, which cools the intake charge.
I noticed a difference between the two on my MR. |
n - the oil temp sensor is located in a sandwich adapter that mounts to the oil filter housing.
Originally Posted by nils
kzevo, where is your temp sender located?
that makes a difference... n |
Originally Posted by KZEVO
n - the oil temp sensor is located in a sandwich adapter that mounts to the oil filter housing.
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there are 2 plugs by the oil filter plate.. one is before the oil cooler & the other is right after the cooler... so depending on where you put the sensor you will see dramatically different temps.... I am assuming you put your after the cooler.
Mine is located before the cooler, so I see the very hottest temps the oil will ever see..... 140c during hotlapping. n |
on my old 03 EVO I used to be at 260 F easy
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Originally Posted by nils
there are 2 plugs by the oil filter plate.. one is before the oil cooler & the other is right after the cooler... so depending on where you put the sensor you will see dramatically different temps.... I am assuming you put your after the cooler.
Mine is located before the cooler, so I see the very hottest temps the il will ever see..... 140c all day. n |
Originally Posted by razorlab
Where did you put yours on the filter housing? I put mine in the upper spare input. Not really sure if that is before or after the cooler. I should have payed more attention. :updown:
n |
Originally Posted by nils
there are 2 plugs by the oil filter plate.. one is before the oil cooler & the other is right after the cooler... so depending on where you put the sensor you will see dramatically different temps.... I am assuming you put your after the cooler.
Mine is located before the cooler, so I see the very hottest temps the oil will ever see..... 140c during hotlapping. n |
Originally Posted by meanmud
140C - that's testing a good synth; change it out after each event?
n |
On my first track event back in May, I saw no higher than 110C. My second event, a week later, saw 120C. This past weekend, in 100+ degree heat, I saw 130C. The car is detuned from the factory calibrations.
On my 20 minute sessions yesterday, I would see 130C after 10 minutes of running hard. The heater was set at 2 during that time. For one lap, approximately 2 miles, I'd shortshift into 4th and run with the heater full blast. After that the car would stay around 120C for the next 10 minutes. This particular track, the Miller Motorsports Park west track, has me between 5k and 8k rpms in 3rd gear almost exclusively, with one half of the west track almost flat-out. I do fresh Mobil 1 10w30 before each event. I sure wish there was a 15w40 out there from Mobil 1. Any ideas what is needed to blend up some oil that isn't super sludge, but a bit more heat resistant? -Jon |
I use a blend of 10w30 mobil 1 and 20w50 syntec
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On my '05 RS on a 90F day at Thunderhill I saw 110C on the stock gauge/sender.
TBE, Works P2, and a fluttering stock DV. |
Hmm, I just got back from the track and saw 150C on the oil temp gauge....
Royal Purple 20w50...is there something wrong with my car? Seems to be ok still through... |
temps like that would worry me.... specially if you ran it hot like that for a long time.
Oil temps are all over the place in here... some see really low temps.. some see super high temps. n |
Originally Posted by KZEVO
(Post 3173916)
has anyone upgraded the oil coolers on their cars? my oil temp goes up to 120C (or a little past that) during HPDEs and i'm wondering if i need to or should upgrade anything.
thanks https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...p+issue+solved |
Originally Posted by razorlab
(Post 3176227)
Where did you put yours on the filter housing? I put mine in the upper spare input. Not really sure if that is before or after the cooler. I should have payed more attention. :updown:
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anyone know where the mitsu guage cluster oil temp sender is located
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Originally Posted by exacc
(Post 5731651)
Hmm, I just got back from the track and saw 150C on the oil temp gauge....
Royal Purple 20w50...is there something wrong with my car? Seems to be ok still through... If you have a stock bottom end or tight clearances, part of the problem will be too high Viscosity oil, and the Royal Purple... Thicker is not always better. Stock Bottom, you should be running a 30 wgt oil in most cases, and make sure it is a True Synthetic.. AMSOIL or Mobil 1 EP are going to be the best you can buy... If your track times don't exceed about 30 minutes before you come in, AMSOIL SSO 0W-30 would be the ticket... Plenty of protection, and a HP Boost over 20W-50, along with proper flow that the engine was designed for. If your track times run over 30-40 minutes, AMSOIL AMO 10W-40 would be the recommendation.. We are running 1400 HP out of a 2.3 EcoTec on the Salt Flats with that 10W-40. Doc |
Question for those folks with high temps..... do you have your downpipe wrapped? With the car moving you wouldn't expect the heat to trasfer that much but it does especially with the undertray on there.
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
(Post 5746506)
Question for those folks with high temps..... do you have your downpipe wrapped? With the car moving you wouldn't expect the heat to trasfer that much but it does especially with the undertray on there.
Excellent Point as well... I remember reading about that and it does make a difference from what I read. Doc |
One thing I have noticed is a actually took some basically reflective butyl material (essentially dynomat extreme) and put that on the oil pan. This helps reflects the heat and doesn't allow the oil pan to absorb the heat. I don't have concrete data if it helped but I can tell you for autoX doing 3 or 4 runs back to back and idling at the line for 10min at a time my oil temps never exceed 210-220F on my Defi.
I could also contribute this to running a Tanabe downpipe as there is so much room around it I can slide my whole hand between the oil pan and the downpipe. When I had my TurboXS 3in it was about 1cm clearance and I think that really doesn't help at all. |
Originally Posted by puckadog
(Post 5744973)
anyone know where the mitsu guage cluster oil temp sender is located
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Like someone said, oil and water temp go hand in hand.
I added ralliart radiator thermostat and my car never saw above 110C on a 95+F track day. I've read some literature that above 100C you want to add radiator themostat, 110C add OIL cooler thermostat, 120C+ add or upgrade oil cooler. I assume 120C is the magic number, from what I read. JMO |
^ Are you sure? In most cases the thermostat is open during the first lap and stays open because the temps are always high. You can have it open sooner but it wont make any difference.
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
(Post 5749756)
^ Are you sure? In most cases the thermostat is open during the first lap and stays open because the temps are always high. You can have it open sooner but it wont make any difference.
A stat shouldn't stay open. It closes when the cooler liquid contacts it, keeping it in the block until it reaches temp. Then does it all over again... If the stat would stay open, you would overheat for sure as the water has to stay in the radiator for a while to cool down. Doc . |
Doc- What temps should we shooting for on the track? I hear that we want to hit 100c to get rid of moisture and such but don't want to go much hotter? Whats the ideal condition for a motor?
Oddly I rarely get over 100c and if I do its back down to 90c or so by the time I get into the paddock after a session. I don't mind the quick cool down but fear that I'm actually not getting hot enough at times. Is this reality? |
Seeing that my old brain is still on F. for temps.... If you are running a Premium Petroleum oil, 225-235 is it's Upper Lubricating Limits..
After that, I have to be cautiousas too many people call every Mobil 1, Castrol SynTec and the rest of the Hydro-Cracked Products "Synthetic" So, this is going to be strictly for AMSOIL..... I wouldn't worry until 265.. and that is not so much for the oil temp.. your coolant temps are probably way above where they need to be... I have run over 270 on my MotorCycle. But it does shorten the life of the oil. So... 225-235 Degrees F. Doc |
D.... sorry I cut the other reply off...BTW.... Nice looking website.. I'll have to check it out a little more and see what you guys are up to...
Yes, it is possible to be too cool, but, although I work in F.... 100C is 210 degrees which is considered operating temp.. where the oil is designed to run, 210, until it's upper lubricating limits, can be a fine line.. I normally run about 210-220 on my bike with AMSOIL Racing oil, so those occassional 270's don't bother me. Doc |
Originally Posted by dsycks
(Post 5750501)
Oddly I rarely get over 100c and if I do its back down to 90c or so by the time I get into the paddock after a session. I don't mind the quick cool down but fear that I'm actually not getting hot enough at times. Is this reality?
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On my car all of that is stock. My first track day I used redline and had some high temps but switched to Mobile 1 and the temps went down.
Sadly as has been pointed out Mobile 1 is now differently formulated and not of the same quality and I am just about out of old stock. Time for me to find something new. Amsoil is highly thought of and I am of the idea that DTM uses it in their TT cars I may be switching in that direction myself. |
Originally Posted by dsycks
(Post 5751359)
On my car all of that is stock. My first track day I used redline and had some high temps but switched to Mobile 1 and the temps went down.
Sadly as has been pointed out Mobile 1 is now differently formulated and not of the same quality and I am just about out of old stock. Time for me to find something new. Amsoil is highly thought of and I am of the idea that DTM uses it in their TT cars I may be switching in that direction myself. Doc |
Originally Posted by Oil Doc
(Post 5750065)
A stat shouldn't stay open. It closes when the cooler liquid contacts it, keeping it in the block until it reaches temp. Then does it all over again... If the stat would stay open, you would overheat for sure as the water has to stay in the radiator for a while to cool down.
Doc . I'm not talking a 50 second autox I'm talking 30 minute lapping sessions and driving at 100%. |
my water is rock solid.
I have 2 oil coolers now. we took timing out of the car, i know we are running safe. AFR's are safe too. we customized the DP away from the oil pan. we put a thick heat reflector sheild on oil pan. 100-105f outside, prolly hotter on pavement. .... I am still over heating. It has to make a difference where the oil temp sender is located. Where have you guys put yours? Mine is by oil filter, right before oil goes into oil cooler. |
What are you calling overheating ? What Brand and Viscosity oil are you using ?
Doc |
How did you heat shield the oil pan? Stick on heat shielding or some sort of metal shield?
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Originally Posted by Oil Doc
(Post 5777424)
What are you calling overheating ? What Brand and Viscosity oil are you using ?
Doc it goes up quickly once I start hot lapping.... 90-110c during highway cruising, then it jumps 140c plus once I hit the track & start abusing ma bischle. :beer: n |
Originally Posted by shadow1
(Post 5777437)
How did you heat shield the oil pan? Stick on heat shielding or some sort of metal shield?
n |
It would have been interesting to see what the temp differences are after the coolers, before and after you upgraded them.
I would imagine the after-cooler oil temps are much lower now. |
Originally Posted by razorlab
(Post 5777879)
It would have been interesting to see what the temp differences are after the coolers, before and after you upgraded them.
I would imagine the after-cooler oil temps are much lower now. we are going to relocate the temp sender to get a 'medium' reading.. but these temps are worrying me. I have seen 140c meny times before, this is not uncommon... atleast not for me. Accusump system up next... oil pressure dips way down when during hard G' right hand sweepeers, thats gotta hurt. n |
Originally Posted by nils
(Post 5777834)
Amsoil 20-50, built engine.
it goes up quickly once I start hot lapping.... 90-110c during highway cruising, then it jumps 140c plus once I hit the track & start abusing ma bischle. :beer: n Need to look into and check the guage.. Doc |
Originally Posted by Oil Doc
(Post 5777983)
I don't know your build, but unless that bottom end is super loose, I'm Gonna say the oil is too high a viscosity for starters. That will add to oil temps but that seems to be considerable temps. Are you sure your guage is correct ? Just taking a guess but in F., 100 C is 210 so that has to be close to 300 ? Your coolant would be effected as well and boiling all over.
Need to look into and check the guage.. Doc nothing wrong with the guage i dont think... n |
I tried the Thermo-Tec stick on sheet on my oil pan. Supposed rated at 2000 deg F. Peeled itself right off before my next oil change. Nothing left except the clear adhesive layer on my oil pan. Waste of $15.
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Originally Posted by shadow1
(Post 5778579)
I tried the Thermo-Tec stick on sheet on my oil pan. Supposed rated at 2000 deg F. Peeled itself right off before my next oil change. Nothing left except the clear adhesive layer on my oil pan. Waste of $15.
I'm sure this would help with oil temps. |
Originally Posted by shadow1
(Post 5778579)
I tried the Thermo-Tec stick on sheet on my oil pan. Supposed rated at 2000 deg F. Peeled itself right off before my next oil change. Nothing left except the clear adhesive layer on my oil pan. Waste of $15.
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Originally Posted by nils
(Post 5778567)
140c is about 284f.... I let off at about 135 today but know it will go alot higher.
nothing wrong with the guage i dont think... n I need to look into upgrade cooling as well. |
There are 2 ports on the filter housing. I think the guys that see lower temps put their sensor in the cooler return spot, the guys that sees higher put them in the cooler feed spot.
think im gonna weld a bung on my oil pan & put the sensor there.... I want to know what my temps are in there. Oil pressure is also an issue, during HARD right hand sweepers I loose oil pressure, I know the oil slushes around in the pan .. so others must have this issue too. |
ok when you guys are talking about 100c-140c or so, is this on the stock oil gauge?? what does the stock gauge read in?? i have never seen my stock oil gauge go over 85-90!!
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Originally Posted by bbyevo8u
(Post 5779353)
ok when you guys are talking about 100c-140c or so, is this on the stock oil gauge?? what does the stock gauge read in?? i have never seen my stock oil gauge go over 85-90!!
we are talking about tracking your car on a road course, 85-90c doing that is impossible. |
Trackday last friday at SOW. Temps were WELL over 100*F outside. Oil temps never exceeded 120*C on Mobil 1 10w30 extended performance. However, I was only out there for 15-20minutes at a time.
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How hard and long are you guys with the oil temp issues pushing your car on track? I was at VIR this past weekend and still didn't see much over 240F, even in low 90F weather. I do shift at 6500 rpm most of the time, almost never exceed 7000 rpm, and rarely sustain revs above 6000 rpm, all in the interest of keeping my stock motor together. When I do push it, I only do so for maybe 10 minutes max at a time before backing off for a lap. I also usually am trying to conserve brake pads somewhat in the interest of economy, so I don't wind the car out on every straight. Are you guys driving 10/10ths for 20-30 minutes at a time, the way you would in a wheel-to-wheel situation?
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I go pretty hard and don't see the sort of temps Nils is getting. Then again he is making a good bit more power as well.
Nils- Please document your Accusump install. |
Originally Posted by currahee474
(Post 5780665)
Trackday last friday at SOW. Temps were WELL over 100*F outside. Oil temps never exceeded 120*C on Mobil 1 10w30 extended performance. However, I was only out there for 15-20minutes at a time.
n |
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
(Post 5780785)
How hard and long are you guys with the oil temp issues pushing your car on track? I was at VIR this past weekend and still didn't see much over 240F, even in low 90F weather. I do shift at 6500 rpm most of the time, almost never exceed 7000 rpm, and rarely sustain revs above 6000 rpm, all in the interest of keeping my stock motor together. When I do push it, I only do so for maybe 10 minutes max at a time before backing off for a lap. I also usually am trying to conserve brake pads somewhat in the interest of economy, so I don't wind the car out on every straight. Are you guys driving 10/10ths for 20-30 minutes at a time, the way you would in a wheel-to-wheel situation?
n |
Originally Posted by dsycks
(Post 5780850)
I go pretty hard and don't see the sort of temps Nils is getting. Then again he is making a good bit more power as well.
Nils- Please document your Accusump install. |
Mine goes up 135c or so after a 3 or so hot laps as well. I haven't been to the track in awhile but when I was tracking regulary it would do that every time.
It would pretty much stay there though, not get any higher than 138c or so. This is with 340ish whp on a mustang dyno , with a track tune, with a green. I would rev to 7900 or so if I needed the gearing. At the time I had stock radiator as well. My water temps where always fine. At the track I used a cocktail of 15w-50 and 10w-30 redline motor oil. |
Originally Posted by razorlab
(Post 5781251)
Mine goes up 135c or so after a 3 or so hot laps as well. I haven't been to the track in awhile but when I was tracking regulary it would do that every time.
It would pretty much stay there though, not get any higher than 138c or so. This is with 340ish whp on a mustang dyno , with a track tune, with a green. I would rev to 7900 or so if I needed the gearing. At the time I had stock radiator as well. My water temps where always fine. At the track I used a cocktail of 15w-50 and 10w-30 redline motor oil. how has your motor held up? :beer: n |
Originally Posted by nils
(Post 5781270)
good to know.... im starting to think it is normal... robi says the same thing as you.. he sees 140c all the time.
how has your motor held up? :beer: n I do have some leak down now but I strongly believe it's head related, a valve seal or something as I do rev the piss out of it and it still has the stock valvetrain. Time to upgrade. ;) The Evo 9 we ran at the last buttonwillow TA that got 2nd place in street makes 365whp on the same mustang dyno, with a green, revved to 7900 or so if needed. Stock oil cooler, upgraded radiator. Full weight. It also hits 135c+ oil temps. |
From an artical I saw some time ago: Oil's " effectiveness" is constant until about 220f, and for every 10* increase in temp an oils ability to maintain its lubricating effectiveness is cut in half... so by 240*f an oils effectiveness is cut to 25% of it effectiveless at 220*f.... I think thats whats been asked and it loosly fits with what has been expressed in the last 5 pages..Just sharing what I base my judgements on oil temp on.. I am sure there are exceptions to the rule and someone oil is better then someone elses...but for all the rest..this is what I use to be sure I don't have a problem.
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I've seen over 125C in 90F weather
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time for some upgrades before the summer track days
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Originally Posted by meckert
(Post 5781360)
From an artical I saw some time ago: Oil's " effectiveness" is constant until about 220f, and for every 10* increase in temp an oils ability to maintain its lubricating effectiveness is cut in half... so by 240*f an oils effectiveness is cut to 25% of it effectiveless at 220*f.... I think thats whats been asked and it loosly fits with what has been expressed in the last 5 pages..Just sharing what I base my judgements on oil temp on.. I am sure there are exceptions to the rule and someone oil is better then someone elses...but for all the rest..this is what I use to be sure I don't have a problem.
With a Petroleum oil, that is correct....225 is upper lubricating limits.. AMSOIL will continue lubricating well beyond that.. I am still leaning toward a faulty guage, sending unit or something other than 290 being the oil temp especially when it is a sudden jump in temp... oil just don't jump 80 degrees right away when you hit the throttle. I have hit over 270 on my bike, but we are talking an air-cooled V-Twin riding at 5 MPH for 11 Miles with the Ambient temp close to 100 ... No air circulation and still only 270.. Doc |
it might be the temp guage or sender.... or it might be the location of where the sender is. Im gonna switch it & see what happens.
n |
Nils, have you had your used oil analyzed? If it checks out okay, then the temps are probably no big deal. If its full of bearing material, well...
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Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
(Post 5791716)
Nils, have you had your used oil analyzed? If it checks out okay, then the temps are probably no big deal. If its full of bearing material, well...
thas a good idea.... oil doc, you do testing, right? |
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thx.... just signed up for a free kit... we'll see what happens.
n |
Ya man send it to blackstone. Also Nils I would run alot less weight as well. 20/50 is like diesel oil haha. I run 5/30 still, and usually switch to 0/30 in the summer.
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you & doc say to run thinner oil but all my racing buddies along with most EVO race engine builders (like Buschur, DTM) say to go with 20/50....
im gonna try the amsoil 20/50 TRO next... then after that I'll try the Amsoil thinner weight.. n |
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Originally Posted by nils
(Post 5793105)
you & doc say to run thinner oil but all my racing buddies along with most EVO race engine builders (like Buschur, DTM) say to go with 20/50....
im gonna try the amsoil 20/50 TRO next... then after that I'll try the Amsoil thinner weight.. n I was out at SMMP all day in may, was pretty warm but not too bad and my temps never went over 110C on the stock guage and I was out there about 30 mins at a time. Was just using stock mobil 1 5w30 that I just changed. This is off the Redline website: VISCOSITY GRADE SELECTION The proper viscosity grade to use depends on many factors such as ambient temperature, miles on the engine, bearing and piston clearances, and type of service. A general rule of lubrication is to use the lowest viscosity possible which will provide the proper separation of metal. Anything more than this minimum will increase power loss due to friction and will reduce the pumpability of the oil at all temperatures. However, one must consider synthetics differently when determining viscosity requirements. At high speeds, a petroleum 5W30 can appear to be a 15W in the bearings due to the shear stress, yet Red Line 5W30 will actually be an SAE 30 in the bearings. There is a significant difference in lubricating an engine with a 30 compared to a 15W. Red Line Synthetic oil will provide better viscosity protection than the next higher petroleum viscosity grade. If clearances are tight and very little lugging occurs, then the 5W30 or 10W30 should be adequate. Less turbo lag will be noticed with the 5W30. If ambient temperatures will regularly climb above 100°F, then the 10W40 would provide an additional safety margin. If the engine is air-cooled, or if the engine is older and has greater bearing and ring clearances, the 15W50 and 20W50 will develop a thicker oil film. If very low temperatures occur, the lower viscosity grades, (5W30, 10W30, or 10W40) will flow better and lubricate the engine more quickly after start-up |
oil light flicker gone
Previous two times at the track, after the cool down lap, I would have a slightly flickering oil light at idle. This was with Mobil 1 10W30. I haven't installed a proper oil pressure gauge yet so I don't know what the oil pressure was. Anyway, this seems to be somewhat common and may just be a bad sender.
But yesterday I ran with Redline 10W40 and got no oil light flicker. I don't know if it was because it was Redline, or 10W40, or perhaps both. |
Originally Posted by Oil Doc
(Post 5777983)
I don't know your build, but unless that bottom end is super loose, I'm Gonna say the oil is too high a viscosity for starters. That will add to oil temps but that seems to be considerable temps. Are you sure your guage is correct ? Just taking a guess but in F., 100 C is 210 so that has to be close to 300 ? Your coolant would be effected as well and boiling all over.
Need to look into and check the guage.. Doc 140C is 284F 150C is 302F |
Anyway, I will add a bit more info about my car....
Its tuned to produce about 300WHP on a dynojet with about 17.1 psi peak boost. The previous owner said that my head is different, and it has bigger valves. I have DP that is wrapped, and I think my oil temp sender is located near the point where the filter is located. I have an HKS oil cooler with HKS oil thermostat. I now changed to RP 10w40 oil to see if it makes a difference. But so far, driving it in the streets show it to be similar with the 50wt oil...haven't brought it to the track through. My oil temps increase when I am on full throttle...I stay on track and push the car 3 hard laps of about 2:00 each...then I drive it 80% for a lap or so, then back to 100% again. The average temp looks to be at 130C and I can see it rise to 150C when I am on the longer parts of the track where I do full throttle runs. My AFR is in the range of about 11.5 to about 13.5. I am considering getting a Ralliart thermostat for the radiator, and also possibly removing the oil thermostat to help with cooling i suppose. any advice would be wonderful! Oh and by the way, I used to have X-Line Gauges, and now I have PLX...senders are placed in the same place, but the temp readings on both are identical...so that rules out gauge problems. |
another suggestion was to remove the balancer shafts...to increase the flow of oil...it will yield an increase in oil pressure too...but supposedly make it recycle faster, and won't let the oil stay in there too long, before it is passed through the oil cooler...
I am also strongly considering installing my stock oil cooler together with the current HKS oil cooler... any thoughts on these? |
Originally Posted by aeroweenie
(Post 5795238)
Previous two times at the track, after the cool down lap, I would have a slightly flickering oil light at idle. This was with Mobil 1 10W30. I haven't installed a proper oil pressure gauge yet so I don't know what the oil pressure was. Anyway, this seems to be somewhat common and may just be a bad sender.
But yesterday I ran with Redline 10W40 and got no oil light flicker. I don't know if it was because it was Redline, or 10W40, or perhaps both. If the other oil had some age on it, it could have been sheared back before you started and was too thin by the end. A heavier viscosity oil is not necessarily the cure. Some oils just don't hold up as well as others. Give AMSOIL Product Code SSO 0W-30 a try. It is the Top of The Line and will hold up better to shear than the Mobil 1. Doc |
Originally Posted by Oil Doc
(Post 5834426)
The 40 wgt may have an effect on that. Depends on the age of the Mobil 1 that was in there and which Mobil 1.
If the other oil had some age on it, it could have been sheared back before you started and was too thin by the end. A heavier viscosity oil is not necessarily the cure. Some oils just don't hold up as well as others. Give AMSOIL Product Code SSO 0W-30 a try. It is the Top of The Line and will hold up better to shear than the Mobil 1. Doc Checked RP website for the 5w30 I used before... Viscosity Index = 152 at 100C = 10.6 RP 20w 50 VI = 138 at 100C = 20.2 As per Jeff, Sunoco 5w 50 VI = 182 at 100C 19.2 Mobile 1 5w 30 (recommended for Lancer EVO in USA) VI = 169 at 100C 11.3 |
Accusump
Did anyone ever install an Accusump unit? I have lost two motors now from no oil pressure, high 'G' right hand turns, and I cant wait for a dry sump system. looking to see exactly what parts to get from Canton (valve, canister, etc.)
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Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
(Post 5792502)
www.blackstone-labs.com
Originally Posted by nils
(Post 5792566)
thx.... just signed up for a free kit... we'll see what happens.
n Thinking of sending in a sample to Blackstone. Any advice on specific testing to ask for? |
i never ended up sending my stuff in... but just order their kit & send it in.. i heard they give you all the info in the world & are good to work with.
Kmac... i use a accusump... so far testing has shown ot works/helps with your issue...what u wanna know? |
I forget the tech names, but oil breakdown and metal content seem to be the most popular. Btw, anyone know why Doc's account got disabled?
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Originally Posted by Balrok
(Post 7073120)
I forget the tech names, but oil breakdown and metal content seem to be the most popular. Btw, anyone know why Doc's account got disabled?
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Originally Posted by boomn29
(Post 7072697)
Seeing some high temps. I thought they were crazy high, but looks like others have seen much higher.
Thinking of sending in a sample to Blackstone. Any advice on specific testing to ask for? |
Originally Posted by apagan01
(Post 7073719)
hey Boomn29,, i am wondering if we should give the lower viscocity oil a try, i was thinking of a 10W30 RD racing oil
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Originally Posted by nils
(Post 7073118)
Kmac... i use a accusump... so far testing has shown ot works/helps with your issue...what u wanna know?
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Originally Posted by redvolution
(Post 7074517)
Why an accusump over the AMS baffled pan?
:beer: |
Originally Posted by Balrok
(Post 7073929)
I'm thinking Wynn sends us free oil, and we give him racing feedback on it {thumbup}
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Originally Posted by apagan01
(Post 7073719)
hey Boomn29,, i am wondering if we should give the lower viscocity oil a try, i was thinking of a 10W30 RD racing oil
Originally Posted by apagan01
(Post 7074616)
We are working closely with boomn29 and his racing efforts, we are about to sponsor his car,,, so he will get oil's from AMSOIL ;)
Andy's been great to work with thus far. He talked my ear off the first time I called a few weeks back wanting a better, safer grade of oil! |
Originally Posted by boomn29
(Post 7076149)
Well, I did buy a truck and trailer in the past 2 weeks. So I'm not saying my Evo will be a trailer queen but it'll be treated nicely in route to the track! I know there's some even stronger racing type oils that we can work with now. I'm pulling a few more things for weight as well.
Heck yeah! Andy's been great to work with thus far. He talked my ear off the first time I called a few weeks back wanting a better, safer grade of oil! boomn29 , i know we reccomended the 10w40 and AMS also did recomend it, it is a great oil and now that you are towing the car thats even better. however if there is place to improve you engines situation with the best oil posible we will work with you very closely to make that happen. i know i can get a little talkie there ;) but i is my duttie to ensure i provide you with the propper information {thumbup} like i said before your sponsorship is being worked on as we speak, i will let you know when we need anything from you as far as info :usflag::mitsu:{thumbup} |
Originally Posted by aeroweenie
(Post 5795238)
Previous two times at the track, after the cool down lap, I would have a slightly flickering oil light at idle. This was with Mobil 1 10W30. I haven't installed a proper oil pressure gauge yet so I don't know what the oil pressure was. Anyway, this seems to be somewhat common and may just be a bad sender.
But yesterday I ran with Redline 10W40 and got no oil light flicker. I don't know if it was because it was Redline, or 10W40, or perhaps both. |
Got some temp updates for ya:
This is on a ~300whp car running an AMS pump gas tune, 3" exhaust and a heatwrapped downpipe: 1) Mobil 1 5w30 - Ambient 95 - 3 hot laps - 262-268 degrees peak 2) Mobil 1 5w30 - Ambient 75 - 3-5 hot laps - 255-262 degrees peak 3) AMSoil 10w40 - Ambient 85 - 8-10 hot laps - 245-255 degrees peak Maybe my car likes to run 262 degrees; I dunno. I captured some of the oil when I pulled it last month for scenario #1 and will be sending it into Blackstone labs for some feedback. It looks to have ran a little cooler with the AMSoil 10w40, but that might just be because it's thicker. I'm more concerned with what protects me up at those temps and I have a feeling AMSoil does the trick better. I've got a big order into AMSoil for their RD 10W30 which is their Racing 'Dominator' oil. So I'll send report back in August. |
Looks like great results, looking foward to see how the temps respnd to the Dominator AMSOIL 10W30
Originally Posted by boomn29
(Post 7307771)
Got some temp updates for ya:
This is on a ~300whp car running an AMS pump gas tune, 3" exhaust and a heatwrapped downpipe: 1) Mobil 1 5w30 - Ambient 95 - 3 hot laps - 262-268 degrees peak 2) Mobil 1 5w30 - Ambient 75 - 3-5 hot laps - 255-262 degrees peak 3) AMSoil 10w40 - Ambient 85 - 8-10 hot laps - 245-255 degrees peak Maybe my car likes to run 262 degrees; I dunno. I captured some of the oil when I pulled it last month for scenario #1 and will be sending it into Blackstone labs for some feedback. It looks to have ran a little cooler with the AMSoil 10w40, but that might just be because it's thicker. I'm more concerned with what protects me up at those temps and I have a feeling AMSoil does the trick better. I've got a big order into AMSoil for their RD30 which is their Racing 'Dominator' fuel. So I'll send report back in August. |
Originally Posted by boomn29
(Post 7307771)
Got some temp updates for ya:
This is on a ~300whp car running an AMS pump gas tune, 3" exhaust and a heatwrapped downpipe: 1) Mobil 1 5w30 - Ambient 95 - 3 hot laps - 262-268 degrees peak 2) Mobil 1 5w30 - Ambient 75 - 3-5 hot laps - 255-262 degrees peak 3) AMSoil 10w40 - Ambient 85 - 8-10 hot laps - 245-255 degrees peak Maybe my car likes to run 262 degrees; I dunno. I captured some of the oil when I pulled it last month for scenario #1 and will be sending it into Blackstone labs for some feedback. It looks to have ran a little cooler with the AMSoil 10w40, but that might just be because it's thicker. I'm more concerned with what protects me up at those temps and I have a feeling AMSoil does the trick better. I've got a big order into AMSoil for their RD 10W30 which is their Racing 'Dominator' oil. So I'll send report back in August. http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...AMSOIL_018.jpg |
racing oil is quite important, definately in summer time when temperatures are rising quickly.
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Originally Posted by boomn29
(Post 7307771)
Got some temp updates for ya:
This is on a ~300whp car running an AMS pump gas tune, 3" exhaust and a heatwrapped downpipe: 1) Mobil 1 5w30 - Ambient 95 - 3 hot laps - 262-268 degrees peak 2) Mobil 1 5w30 - Ambient 75 - 3-5 hot laps - 255-262 degrees peak 3) AMSoil 10w40 - Ambient 85 - 8-10 hot laps - 245-255 degrees peak Maybe my car likes to run 262 degrees; I dunno. I captured some of the oil when I pulled it last month for scenario #1 and will be sending it into Blackstone labs for some feedback. It looks to have ran a little cooler with the AMSoil 10w40, but that might just be because it's thicker. I'm more concerned with what protects me up at those temps and I have a feeling AMSoil does the trick better. I've got a big order into AMSoil for their RD 10W30 which is their Racing 'Dominator' oil. So I'll send report back in August. http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...Evo/Mobil1.jpg |
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