Fuel economy and transission issues?
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: 1776
The secret is to keep the RPMs as LOW as possible when driving, accelerating and cruising. When you're accelerating, don't let your RPMs go over 2k. If you understand how a CVT works, you can stay at the same rpm while gaining speed at the same time. I was having fun with it today under city conditions. I don't watch my speed, I watch my tachometer. I would stay at 1.5k rpm and look at my speedometer go up.
It's pretty trippy when your tachometer isn't moving, but your speedometer is still going up, lol.
It's pretty trippy when your tachometer isn't moving, but your speedometer is still going up, lol.
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Evolving Member
Joined: May 2013
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From: Kansas
I think I just threw up a little in my mouth. I have yet to see better than 320 on a tank. Driving home from work yesterday with a head wind (not going over 55) I got 18 mpg.
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Kansas
The secret is to keep the RPMs as LOW as possible when driving, accelerating and cruising. When you're accelerating, don't let your RPMs go over 2k. If you understand how a CVT works, you can stay at the same rpm while gaining speed at the same time. I was having fun with it today under city conditions. I don't watch my speed, I watch my tachometer. I would stay at 1.5k rpm and look at my speedometer go up.
It's pretty trippy when your tachometer isn't moving, but your speedometer is still going up, lol.
It's pretty trippy when your tachometer isn't moving, but your speedometer is still going up, lol.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: usa
So this morning at 5AM before going to work, i have 60 miles in my OS at full tank and the gauge shows that i still have 400 miles to drive. I forgot to take a pic of this. So I drove to work for 12 miles and these are the reading I got.
If this will continue, I will be so happy... LOL
If this will continue, I will be so happy... LOL
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
^
Only if you go downhill most of the way to.. and have a strong tailwind going back. Too bad we have stop signs & traffic lights to deal with.
PS: You put some good miles on your O.Sport quick! Up to 6K+ already...
Only if you go downhill most of the way to.. and have a strong tailwind going back. Too bad we have stop signs & traffic lights to deal with.
PS: You put some good miles on your O.Sport quick! Up to 6K+ already...
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From: Kansas
Are people actually seeing better results with the full synthetic? I may change my oil ahead of time just to see if I get a small bump in the interim. I know it will reduce some of the internal friction, but don't know if its wise to change it early until the engine is fully broke in.
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From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
BT,
A bit more patience..
Believe us you'll see your MPGs go way up after you pass the 3,500 mark.
And, I advise you wait til after 5K before you do an oil change. Give the new motor a bit more time to properly break in. (0-20W)
A bit more patience..
Believe us you'll see your MPGs go way up after you pass the 3,500 mark.
And, I advise you wait til after 5K before you do an oil change. Give the new motor a bit more time to properly break in. (0-20W)
Last edited by mRVRsport; Jun 22, 2013 at 12:13 PM.
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From: Kansas
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Are people actually seeing better results with the full synthetic? I may change my oil ahead of time just to see if I get a small bump in the interim. I know it will reduce some of the internal friction, but don't know if its wise to change it early until the engine is fully broke in.
And you should do your first oil change ahead of schedule anyways. That will remove any crap or residue in the motor from the manufacturing process.
Actually, at 1,500 miles I'd personally do an oil & filter change now.
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Originally Posted by Top 7 Urban Legends About Motor Oil
5. When you buy a new car, change your oil at 3,000 miles to remove metal particles from the engine break-in process.
There might be a grain of truth to this, according to the experts at Blackstone. Oil samples from engines during the first 3,000 miles of driving show elevated "wear-in" metal levels, coming from the pistons and camshafts, says Ryan Stark, Blackstone's president. But he added, "To me, it doesn't make that much difference because if the filings are big enough to cause damage, they will be taken out by the oil filter."
However, a Honda spokesman says its cars come from the factory with a special oil formulation for the break-in period. Honda advises owners to not change the oil early. Stark said Blackstone Laboratories' test of Honda's break-in oil shows it contains molybdenum-disulfide, an anti-wear additive. But Stark said Honda is the only manufacturer he knows that's using special break-in oil. The take-away? If there are any special break-in recommendations from the manufacturer, follow them. And consider analyzing the oil at 3,000 miles.
now includes an additive or not.And a really interesting part of that article:
Originally Posted by Top 7 Urban Legends About Motor Oil
7. Synthetic oil is better for your car's engine and it improves your fuel economy.
Myth. Steve Mazor, manager of the American Automobile Association's Research Center, says his testing shows that synthetic oil is generally a superior lubricant, but adds, "I'm not sure it is worth the extra cost — you need to take some of the [manufacturer's] claims with a grain of salt."
Blackstone's Stark says he has not seen data to support claims that synthetic oils boost increased fuel economy. "There is a school of thought that says the synthetic oils are slipperier and allow the engine to spin easier — I don't know that I believe that." Watch this short video for more on the ongoing debate over synthetic and conventional oil.
Last edited by Burtonrider1002; Jun 22, 2013 at 12:26 PM.
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From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
^
I agree with the article's key points.
I worked with BMWs and there's a fairly strict "schedule of maintenance" with those vehicles (you know how fanatical those Germans are with their engines...) and they recommend an oil change every 5K miles (and that's IF you have heavy usage, ie: mainly stop&go city driving)
I agree with the article's key points.
I worked with BMWs and there's a fairly strict "schedule of maintenance" with those vehicles (you know how fanatical those Germans are with their engines...) and they recommend an oil change every 5K miles (and that's IF you have heavy usage, ie: mainly stop&go city driving)