nemsin

iTrader: (19)

Another route would be the CBRD twinscroll RBX kit. It uses the BorgWarner 7163, which IMO is the best turbo on the market for your power goal.

I bet CBRD would give you package deal pricing on the RBX kit, plus their fmic/IC piping/and intake, for a LOT less than $12K http://www.cbrdspeedfactory.com/cbrd...croll-rbx-kit/

I would still recommend the Walbro, and the Tomei exhaust/test pipe. Also ask CBRD about injectors - though I suspect the stock injectors are fine.

Tip: Have them send off the tubular manifold for swaintech ceramic coating.

Drift office in Auburn could handle the install and tune http://www.driftoffice.com/

bboypuertoroc

iTrader: (17)

The turbo kit is most certainly not needed, but that depends on your ultimate end goal with your car as well.

What EXACTLY did you ask for and what was the exact list of parts they suggested for you? There's all kinds of ways to get to 450whp, but some ways will set you up for future success and others will end at 450whp.

Keep in mind, ER is a top notch Evo shop and you will pay for top notch work. That price likely includes labor and the tune to get it all running right. If you're even remotely mechanically inclined (or have friends that are) you can save yourself hundreds on labor doing the work yourself, and taking it to ER for the tuning.

Myles is a really good dude, just like the rest of the crew down there. They'll take care of you regardless what route you end up going.

EDIT: The math on all the parts I would get for a 450whp build (including the ETS turbo kit) makes sense with the $12k quote when you add in labor costs and tax (almost 10%) on top. Like I said, NEEDING the turbo kit vs a stock frame option will depend on your end goal for your car (and can make a $3-4,000 difference).

ETS Michael

iTrader: (91)

Quote must have included labor which would make sense. The nice thing about the 5858 kit is on pump gas you will likely make 450WHP pretty easy (~22lbs) and the stock block will be happy for a long time. The 18K will require quite a bit more boost to make that and the torque will come on quicker being hard on the rods.

The CBRD kit is nice but you won't save much money going that route. The kits are about the same price but your limited to an internal wastegate and the 5858 has a lot of room to grow.

The 5858 is the same kit that I have for my car and I always recommend on the stock block. Spools plenty fast for a street driven car and makes good efficient power.

- Robert

bboypuertoroc

iTrader: (17)

Robert, why you no have O2 eliminator downpipes for CT9As?

nemsin

iTrader: (19)

Can I see the parts list you would recommend? I just can't see how it would be a good idea to spend $12K just to get to 450whp without building the motor. When a Blouch 2.0 or FP Red would just about get you there for a fraction of the price.

bboypuertoroc

iTrader: (17)

It's everything you'd expect... 5858 turbo kit, FMIC, piping, intake, injectors, fuel pump, cams/springs/retainers, TBE, BOV, SD, clutch kit (I didn't factor that in but I'd definitely do it), tune. I might be forgetting a few things.

All of the math on ETS' site totaled just under $8k for the turbo kit, exhaust, intake, and intercooler kit.

Keep in mind, that $12k price tag includes the turbo kit itself (you can take thousands off if you go the stock frame route), labor, and tax (tax is almost 10% of that total, so figure about $1k or so). You can also save a ton by buying some of the parts used, like the exhaust, piping, FMIC, etc. Everything listed is brand spanking new.

Me PERSONALLY, I'd do all the work myself and only take it in for the tune. I'm just basing it on what the quote from English was.

Do you absolutely NEED all these parts for 450whp? Absolutely not. It's a VERY solid foundation for more, though... you're not "just" getting 450whp. That's why I asked what his end goal is.

nemsin

iTrader: (19)

So that is the route you wound recommend? I just don't think most people would choose that path, when there are so many cheaper ways to get to 450whp. I get the "room to grow" argument, but really over 450whp is built motor territory and the cost jumps a ton.

sgtslotr

What miles and I talked about was doing the turbo kit etc now and eventually coming back and having them build the motor and push more power from the car. I know I will be needing a clutch very quickly and I plan on doing it as soon as I smoke the stock one. My biggest question is how many of you have pushed that kind of hp from a stock block? I'm a little gun shy after blowing a motor from taking it to the wrong people.

bboypuertoroc

iTrader: (17)

Again, if the goal is ONLY 450whp, the turbo kit isn't needed. Everything else I listed is your average street build.

Even if your goal is beyond, why spend money twice? The only difference between built motor territory and not built motor territory is the built motor. If you're planning on doing it buy the correct parts from the start. Why buy a Red when you want the power something like a 6266 makes? You're just wasting money having to replace the Red.

I've owned my Evo for 10 years and my single biggest regret is not building towards my end goal from the beginning. I could have a built monster by now with the money I've spent.

nemsin

iTrader: (19)

sgtslotr what is your power goal and intended use? It is usually a lot cheaper to do it once and leave it be. Every trip back to the shop just racks up labor.

bboypuertoroc

iTrader: (17)

Granted, I have a 4G63 but I've ran as high as 30psi when I had my Red and was beating the **** out of my car daily (about 2 years at 30psi). I'm not sure how much abuse the 4B11 can take but I'm sure it's about the same.

Talk to Aaron down at ER. He'll be able to guide you on what he recommends since it sounds like you'll be getting tuned there.

What's your end goal as far as power is concerned?

bboypuertoroc

iTrader: (17)

This.

sgtslotr

I'd like to be as close to 500awhp as possible, maybe a bit over that. Just want it as my 'hotrod' if you will. I don't want to take it to the track and I never plan on launching it. I just want it to be as reliable as I can make it so I don't mind spending extra to have the best of the best work on it and tune it. I live in skagit county so it's quite the trek south but from what I hear about e.r. it's worth it.

nemsin

iTrader: (19)

I think the consensus is that its torque that kills stock motors, with 400 wheel torque being near the stock ceiling. Some turbos can reach surprisingly high hp, while keeping torque down. But those usually spool late. IMO something in the 54-60lb./min range is the best compromise of power/spool. Think Blouch 1.0xtr, MHI TF06-18K, FP Green, BW 7163.

I suggest you not fixate on dyno numbers, and choose a setup that retains early spool characteristics.

bboypuertoroc

iTrader: (17)

Good advice.

The best turbo to run is the one that makes the power you want and gets there the fastest.

If 500whp is your end game, a full on turbo kit isn't needed (unless you WANT a full on turbo kit and have the money to spend).