Looking for WA/OR Track Guy's Experience - Turbos
#1
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Looking for WA/OR Track Guy's Experience - Turbos
I'm looking to possibly get a new stock frame turbo for lapping days/road course events this year. I have all the basic bolt-ons and track day mods. Stock 2.0L and fuel has to be 92. I still have the 6spd tranny.
What gear are you guys being able to use coming out of the slower turns?
3A and 3B at Pacific
The chicane at Portland
T2 and T13 at ORP
I already shift a lot at ORP as it is, I'd like to have enough of a torque grunt at about 4000-4500 to pull out of some of the corners and save a few shifts.
Tahoe55 seemed to like his red before it let go on him (he installed an AMS oil pan)
James' BBK full was a beast when I saw him a few years ago
English really likes the new Green and Aaron suggested that turbo the last time I saw him.
Any help or feedback would be appreciated!
What gear are you guys being able to use coming out of the slower turns?
3A and 3B at Pacific
The chicane at Portland
T2 and T13 at ORP
I already shift a lot at ORP as it is, I'd like to have enough of a torque grunt at about 4000-4500 to pull out of some of the corners and save a few shifts.
Tahoe55 seemed to like his red before it let go on him (he installed an AMS oil pan)
James' BBK full was a beast when I saw him a few years ago
English really likes the new Green and Aaron suggested that turbo the last time I saw him.
Any help or feedback would be appreciated!
#4
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Why would you not consider doing a twinscroll or even single scroll EFR or HTA Garret turbo? Garret. As far as stock frame turbos go I would go with a HTA green or HKS turbo.
Currently I run a FP HTA 3582 single scroll, P.I. Chicane 3rd gear forget exact speed plus it was raining but I was surprised how well the engine/turbo behaved on part throttle.
Currently I run a FP HTA 3582 single scroll, P.I. Chicane 3rd gear forget exact speed plus it was raining but I was surprised how well the engine/turbo behaved on part throttle.
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Rumor has it you might be doing Cascade's March track day. If the weather is cooperative I might just have to join you and Lucas out there! If we can get together for a few open laps, we'll have some fun
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#8
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I'm looking to possibly get a new stock frame turbo for lapping days/road course events this year. I have all the basic bolt-ons and track day mods. Stock 2.0L and fuel has to be 92. I still have the 6spd tranny.
What gear are you guys being able to use coming out of the slower turns?
3A and 3B at Pacific
The chicane at Portland
T2 and T13 at ORP
I already shift a lot at ORP as it is, I'd like to have enough of a torque grunt at about 4000-4500 to pull out of some of the corners and save a few shifts.
Tahoe55 seemed to like his red before it let go on him (he installed an AMS oil pan)
James' BBK full was a beast when I saw him a few years ago
English really likes the new Green and Aaron suggested that turbo the last time I saw him.
Any help or feedback would be appreciated!
What gear are you guys being able to use coming out of the slower turns?
3A and 3B at Pacific
The chicane at Portland
T2 and T13 at ORP
I already shift a lot at ORP as it is, I'd like to have enough of a torque grunt at about 4000-4500 to pull out of some of the corners and save a few shifts.
Tahoe55 seemed to like his red before it let go on him (he installed an AMS oil pan)
James' BBK full was a beast when I saw him a few years ago
English really likes the new Green and Aaron suggested that turbo the last time I saw him.
Any help or feedback would be appreciated!
The BBK full comes in ball bearing now....but not a lot of track data on it yet.
#10
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3A & 3B at PR, 3rd gear. But this is with the 5-speed, I don't know how different the ratios are.
I'm not saying this is optimum but I do save a shift by not going down to 2nd. 3B is the one that matters since it leads onto the back straight.
But I know you already know all of this!
I'm not saying this is optimum but I do save a shift by not going down to 2nd. 3B is the one that matters since it leads onto the back straight.
But I know you already know all of this!
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I'm still running my Stock IX Turbo and have no issues with holding target RPM's in 3rd gear through 3a/3b at Pacific...Spool up is instant with no lag on exit of 3b...You can't go wrong with an FP Green for road course racing/daily driving...IMO if your really looking to build a good road course track car for competition I would look at the EFR Turbo Line...Spool characteristics look great from the info i've been seeing lately on them...I'm planning on going with either a 7064 or a 7670 with a .92 A/R...Spool up should be about the same as my Stock IX Turbo with a good tune (possibly a +100-200rpm variation from the info I have seen lately)...But I am also planning on going with a 2.3L Stroker so that offsets the lag difference also.
#13
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I'm looking to possibly get a new stock frame turbo for lapping days/road course events this year. I have all the basic bolt-ons and track day mods. Stock 2.0L and fuel has to be 92. I still have the 6spd tranny.
What gear are you guys being able to use coming out of the slower turns?
3A and 3B at Pacific
The chicane at Portland
T2 and T13 at ORP
I already shift a lot at ORP as it is, I'd like to have enough of a torque grunt at about 4000-4500 to pull out of some of the corners and save a few shifts.
Tahoe55 seemed to like his red before it let go on him (he installed an AMS oil pan)
James' BBK full was a beast when I saw him a few years ago
English really likes the new Green and Aaron suggested that turbo the last time I saw him.
Any help or feedback would be appreciated!
What gear are you guys being able to use coming out of the slower turns?
3A and 3B at Pacific
The chicane at Portland
T2 and T13 at ORP
I already shift a lot at ORP as it is, I'd like to have enough of a torque grunt at about 4000-4500 to pull out of some of the corners and save a few shifts.
Tahoe55 seemed to like his red before it let go on him (he installed an AMS oil pan)
James' BBK full was a beast when I saw him a few years ago
English really likes the new Green and Aaron suggested that turbo the last time I saw him.
Any help or feedback would be appreciated!
For a little lag but more power, I loved the Red and now that there is a BB version, it would be my recommendation along with the Green. That setup was a blast to drive but consider a baffled deeper pan. Faster lap times mean high G cornering that exceeds the stock pan design. Burning up a Turbo is a sad thing.
I'm runnning the HTA3076 now and it takes too long to spool so I'm having to learn how to drive all over again. Way more shifting now. While I love the power on the straights, all our NW tracks are tight so I'm at a disadvantage with my current setup.
With the stock turbo and the FPRed, I could take the chicane at PIR in 3rd and drive through turn 4 to 6 in 4th grabbing 3rd for 7 . With the HTA3076, I'm still taking the chicane in 3rd but have to shift between 3rd and 4th a few times between turn 4 and 7 to keep the RPMs high enough.
2.4L with FP green sounds like the perfect engine setup for the NW however I'm going to flog my 2.0L some more before I rebuild again.
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I think the CBRD turbos have a better record for holding together road racing. Thats what I would do for stock frame.
With my setup 3rd is what I use coming out of the tight corners and boost is there at exit.
With my setup 3rd is what I use coming out of the tight corners and boost is there at exit.
#15
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With all this talk about road racing and turbos failing I feel that you are missing the point.
1. If you road race get an oil pressure gauge and glance at it on hard corners to see if your oil pressure is dropping. (dont mount it to the block they tend to fail from vibrations from the engine)
2. Get an oil catch can and overfill your engine with .5 to 1 QT of oil to help with oil starvation.
3. If you have any aero or are still having oil starvation problems get a baffled oil pan or if you are a baller go all out and get a Dry Sump.
It should not matter what turbo you are running, that is not the cause of it failing make sure your turbo has a proper oil supply.
1. If you road race get an oil pressure gauge and glance at it on hard corners to see if your oil pressure is dropping. (dont mount it to the block they tend to fail from vibrations from the engine)
2. Get an oil catch can and overfill your engine with .5 to 1 QT of oil to help with oil starvation.
3. If you have any aero or are still having oil starvation problems get a baffled oil pan or if you are a baller go all out and get a Dry Sump.
It should not matter what turbo you are running, that is not the cause of it failing make sure your turbo has a proper oil supply.