Yes that also makes a big difference. I was just saying tire psi makes a big difference. Well it did for me at least. I have ran my car at the track maybe 20-30 times with 1.7-1.9 60fts. Then I saw this thread and lowered my tire psi to 20 and right away 2 back to back 1.57 60fts.

what tires do you have? Where is your 2 step set at? and how much boost are you building on your 2 step? Im still on stock suspension so i dont know how much better i can get my 60ft

plenty of people do amazing 60' times with the stock suspension (I hate them all! lol) but improving the suspension down the road will just make things even better. I don't recommend anyone using Nexen tires though......terrible tire for the track.

I have the falken azenis with 255 width not the best tire for the drag strip but they are great on the road.

I have Michelin PS2s. 6k 2 step and around 8-10psi. Im on the stock suspension also. My tires probably have a lot to do with it also.

I agree, Indy evo lowered his pressure before he ran his 11.84. before the pressure adjust he ran 11.9 . even after his good run it was going to be an 11.7 coming, i will try it next time we are at the track.

ok thanks i will drop to 20 psi all around next trip out and hopefully get a 1.5 60 but thats rough with a 6 speed the one to two is so quick and thats what makes my 60 times as for suspension stiffer up front and a little softer in the rear?

I was on stock suspension w/ tein s tech's when I went 1.5's also.

Ran today at island dragway 20psi tire preassure. Spun so much the car went sideways. Still managed a 1.73 60ft. Maybe its my falken azenis tires. im going to try drag radials or all season tires to see if i get more grip

My buddy pulled a 1.59 on General Exlaim UHP's today! Pretty crazy for a all-season tire if you ask me!

Its all how you let the clutch out...

I agree 100%

Thanks for all the tips. I dont post too much bit I do read and learn.

Looking forward to taking my 8 RS to the track. It is almost ready.

bren

Question for you.... would I be better off trying to build MORE boost at a lower engine speed or run less boost at a higher engine speed for the launch? Previously I've done 10psi from 7200 and ran a 1.7 I did 10psi for 7.8k and it did a 1.6

What I'm thinking is that I'm getting a good 60', but the way I'm doing it is hurting my 330 time. My thought out solution was to run 20psi on the line at a lower RPM like 6k and not slip the clutch as much.

Any input on my thoughts? Also... I was able to get the spool (anti-lag) between the shifts with a lot of timing retard and more fuel :)

Most wanted: Here are my passes from yesterday. Starting from first pass to last. Tell me what you see. 2 step is set at 5500 anything higher i spin much more than what i already spin. #1048 on the slip

Attachment 295022
Attachment 295023
Attachment 295024
Attachment 295025

you are right there. Its the 60' that is hurting you. If you are spinning with the 2 step at 5500 there is another factor. Whether it be a cold surface, poor track prep, running through water without a burnout, letting the clutch out to fast, tire pressure too high, etc. 115 mph is good for 11.50's no problem. Just work through it. Start with the little things and make small changes. Make notes of your 1-2 shift also. A good idea if you can get it done is to buy the Buschur camera mount and video the run. Then you can go home and see whats going on. I have learned alot from watching my videos.

Thank you. I'll be going back to the track and make adjustments. This curse of 12s is getting to me lol im shifting at 7200-7300 1-2-3-4 shifts. Should i be shifting higher?

No that should be fine.

ok here are my runs from first pass to last.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...ackdemon-1.jpg

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...lackdemon2.jpg

This was with 2 step at 6100rpm
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...lackdemon3.jpg

Then back to 5500rpm
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...blackdemon.jpg

Whoa, wut?

115 is 12.1 to 11.9 range. 118-120 mph is most often seen in the 11.5s.

Not with Most-Wanted driving and one kickass launch technique :updown: I agree with you for the average guy though. 115 is usually good for very high 11's for most.

Thanks Jack of trades for the {thumbup}

HMMM, funny you say that. This was back in April of 2006:) Way before I knew anything about removing bumper supports etc. This was a basic Buschur stge 2 in a full weight GSR. Only thing removed was tire junk and passenger seat. This was my post...

.....now that the car is so perfectly dialed in thanks to Buschur Racing and Dynoflash, it has given me the opportunity to better myself without paying so much attention to the car. Last week I had a .004 reaction time and tonight I got two perfect lights. One was a .002 and the other was a .000. Here's what the slip looked like.

r/t .000
60' 1.623
330' 4.812
1/8 7.500
mph 89.96
1000' 9.801
1/4 11.746
mph 113.85

I've done hundreds of mid 11 sec passes with mph around 113-117. Here is from another night. Keep in mind this car had stock TB, stock intercooler, stock cams, stock head, stock everything.

r/t .280
60' 1.655
330' 4.815
1/8 7.477
mph 90.86
1000 9.774
1/4 11.713
mph 114.32

r/t .004
60' 1.655
330' data missing
1/8 7.512
mph 90.58
1000 data missing
1/4 11.758
mph 114.32

And for your viewing pleasure:)
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/7...6615A316EE.htm

Boy this dialing in business is so damn hard. Next i'll try some drag radials and up the 2step to 6100 again.

Yeah, it takes time. But once you get it down it will be awesome and consistent. Thats why I am trying to help out. I have hundreds of passes and this is just what seems to work best for me. Obviously every car is different , mod path differences, and driver ability. But its a starting point.

Question for you.... would I be better off trying to build MORE boost at a lower engine speed or run less boost at a higher engine speed for the launch? Previously I've done 10psi from 7200 and ran a 1.7 I did 10psi for 7.8k and it did a 1.6

What I'm thinking is that I'm getting a good 60', but the way I'm doing it is hurting my 330 time. My thought out solution was to run 20psi on the line at a lower RPM like 6k and not slip the clutch as much.

Any input on my thoughts? Also... I was able to get the spool (anti-lag) between the shifts with a lot of timing retard and more fuel

I've also heard from a few people that i should set my launch rpm to the rpm that I bog down to.

Ive seen you meantion a few times that its all in "how you let the cluth out". I was wondering if this holds true as well to people running Twin disks? I havent really had all that much sucess finding a proper way to slip the clutch ever since I swapped over to a twin, it seems to either just be engaged or its not, which has been causing me to either spin horribly off the line or bog instantly from having to preform the 1-2 shift far too early.

Is there a recommended way you would let out a twin disk most wanted?

You have on that track. But as the norm goes - others have not. There are more people running 11.9xx @ 115-116.

That timing seems off at the track.

My example (same -- stock engine, cams, head, turbo, splashed with 100oct)
https://www.evolutionm.net/registry/...me.php?tid=230

You are .2 quicker at the 8th and carrying that over to the 4th. And I had more 8th mph.

I assure you there is nothing wrong with the timing equipment. In the past(3 years ago when those times were done) not only was it an NHRA track it was also one of the slowest tracks in the country. The track is all new now, but those times were back in the day.

Here are newer times still on the old track but 2 years later. This was done in January of 2008. This was my RS when I first bought it and I ran it as is. I was having lock out issues on the act, transfer case was whining, and the clutch was also slipping:) This too was a full weight car and run as is. Stock tires and everything. Just bolt ons and cams(GSCS1).

60' 1.657
330' 4.839
1/8 7.488
mph 90.78
1000 9.735
1/4 11.629
mph 119.33


60' 1.644
330' 4.803
1/8 7.465
mph 90.78
1000 9.756
1/4 11.669
mph 118.09

All I can say is its in the shifts and launch. I just helped Casper out at the track. sk him how much his times improved with me giving him on site help:) I gave him some small clutch tips and his first pass was a low 1.6 60' and his best ever pass.

ctevo-The trick is to leave the car loaded. Meaning you put the car on the two step but leave the clutch partially engaged. You want to feel the car trying to edge forward. Most people are leaving the clutch all the way in. When they release it it travels and you get a rapid engagement which normally gives you tire spin. By holding it at the edge ou are already loaded per say. Think of it like a gun. If you had to pull your fingers from a grasp and reach for the trigger then pull there would be a delay and inaccuracy. If you rest your finger on the trigger the reaction is much smoother and accurate. Not quite sure how to make sense of it. But I do know Casper made leaps and bounds when I told him this:) Hope it helps.

Back in my stock turbo/stock cams days I was running 11.6's @ a low 117mph trap. It's definitely possible with driving. mph shows the power of the car, ET is the reflection of how well that power is used during the run IE: good launching and most importantly a very quick 2nd gear shift.

Yup, very possible. Thanks for the input Ryu. I've been trying to help others find a quick and cheap guide to better times.

Here is from another night. I read my old posts and it makes me laugh:)


70°F
Clear

Feels Like: 70°F
Humidity: 69%
Wind: ESE at 6 mph


60' 1.627
330 4.795
1/8 7.480
mph 90.60
1000 9.774
1/4 11.72
mph 115.59

60' 1.648
330 4.805
1/8 7.474
mph 91.37
1000 9.761
1/4 11.708
mph 115.87

60' 1.660
330 4.817
1/8 7.500
mph 90.27
1000 9.799
1/4 11.751
mph 115.11

60' 1.650
330 4.801
1/8 7.475
mph 90.81
1000 9.764
1/4 11.712
mph 115.51

60' 1.654
330 4.815
1/8 7.483
mph 91.42
1000 9.768
1/4 11.714
mph 115.72

After the 60's started slipping I decied to shift lanes and do a burn out to heat the tires up. Tire pressure was down to 13psi and I was still losing traction. The burn out definitely helped, but I hate doing them in the evo. The car is in need of a better tire set up and will creep into the 11.5's.

60' 1.610
330 4.765
1/8 7.418
mph 90.58
1000 9.703
1/4 11.637
mph 114.28

Np. What people don't realize is even with a good 60ft there's still atleast 3 tenths at stake with shifting into 2nd gear quickly.

Do you still feel the same way about the burnout these days?

So to recap your suggestions:

• Lower tire pressure for better contact area and bite (set to around 20psi-ish for most)
• Set your 2-step rev limit to at LEAST 6400 RPM, rev-limit to 8400 RPM
• Pre-load clutch just before engagement at the tree, then engage 2-Step rev limiter for at least 1-2 sec's (not too long) to build boost
• Slip the clutch to keep RPM's from dropping below your rev limit set point
• Nail the 1-2 shift like its your JOB!

Did I miss anything?lol

You almost got it. One mistake and I think you just mis wrote. The two step should be 6400 and the rev limit I recommend for around 8400. One thing to mention is the two step. You need to be one the two step for a few seconds. This allows you to build boost. You cant just activate the two step and go. But you dont want to be on it too long either. The 1-2 is soooo important. If done right its like you were never in first it goes so fast. Before the clutch comes all the way out its going back in for the 1-2 shift. It comes in a blink. When I am at the waterbox I actually start thinking about the 1-2 shift. In the lanes prior to the waterbox I actually go through the motion of the 1-2 shift. Sounds gay, but it seems to work for me. But yes, you got the highlights right:)


[*]Nail the 1-2 shift like its your JOB!

This is major and couldnt've been worded any better. As soon as I make the shift I know already if it was a good run or not. Its 90% of the run.

Edited previous post ;) Thanks

Most wanted, when your loading the car are you using the Ebrake or the normal brakes to keep it from edging forward while the clutch is slightly engaged? I assume your then dropping the brake and slowly letting the clutch out from that point rather then side stepping it as well?

Not using a parking brake or brakes but you can. I dont because it just gives you one more thing to worry about. I am just using the weight of the vehicle. I start to engage and when the car starts to want to move I pause there and go in slightly. This keeps the car on the verge of movement. Bigger hp cars will need staging brakes, ut not stock turbo power levels...

I never tested this but when the 2 step is engaged with the rpms at the set limit when does it turn off to let the engine hit full rpms? Is it based on wheel speed sensors telling the ECU the car is moving? I guess what Im getting at is once engauged like most wanted is saying then you can release the clutch slowly till you feel the clutch gripping without the 2 step disengauging right?

Yeah I believe its off the speed sensor. An easy test would be to park on a hill facing downward, put your foot on the brake, activate the 2-step, release the brake and let the car start to roll and see when the 2-step disengages. It'd be safest to lower your 2-step and rev limit to 3000 and 4000 RPM respectively just for testing.

Thank you most wanted for all the info you give the community. Can't wait to see your car back out

i only build about 7psi on the 2 step

I'm not sure about the speed sensor affecting it. If I recall correctly it operates off the switch on the clutch pedal. If it didnt then you could catch the two step without the clutch and it doesnt do that. The clutch has to go in to catch the two step...

drizzydrake-Thanks. It will be very soon.

I'm pretty sure that if you were parked, had it in neutral with your foot off the clutch, it'll hit the 2-step limit. So its not the switch IMO. I haven't hooked up the clutch pedal switch in my Mirage yet so I can't go confirm this,sorry.

Iff you try hitting the two step without the clutch it won't work.

Also, if you aren't stopped it won't work. I.e. if you are rolling just a little bit. I think you need to be in first also but I know that you have to have the clutch in.

Yeah I know it wont work without the clutch pedal depressed. It must be in. When I was adjusting my pedal I bent the tab with the switch. When I went to hit the 2 step nothing. I almost shat myself when it went to 8k:) LOL.. But I also believe the speed sensor is also incorporated. It would have to be because if you were cruising and built rpms it would two step at 6500:) LOL.. So they both take part in the equation...

IIRC, you can adjust the speed to which it engages/disengages through the ecu. Like anything over 7 mph and it won't work or something like that.

...

I found out after looking at my logs that i had a little issue on that 12.0 run. Ill go back to the track next week after we fix this.

bump

That is pretty fast. I just got done talking to the guy who will be tuning my car. Here is a question. With the mods i have posted, what do you think with a good tune id run in a 1/4?
GReddy TBE, KN Intake, ETS Intercooler, Walbro 255 fuel pump, AMS boost controller, Eibach springs (not for power purpose) Custom tune.

Hard to say without more info. Lots of variables. Weight, type of tire, type of clutch, driver ability, etc... Car should go 11's depending on the tune.

Most Wanted -
Ryu-

At what RPM's does ur car drop too when you launch?

Most Wanted if you remember I'm getting a good 60', 1.64, but the car drops to 3500 rpm and is hurting my 1/8 mile. You said I need to slip it a lil more to keep the rpm's up and I'm just wondering what the most it should drop to.

and have you had any experience with the ACT HD street clutch (organic). I'm wondering how well it will hold up to slipping it?

stock clutch, stock tranny and etc. mods are as i posted. I am a pretty good driver, i have been dragging for quite some time. on 93 octane also btw

on my 1.73 60ft 2 step set at 5500rpm the rpm droped to 3785rpm. Not sure if i should have sliped it more.

i will be able to run it once i get back to the states from this hell hole lol. but just wanna know what times people are running with these mods. stock weight, stock clutch, just the mods i have posted up. I will most likely have a few more parts to add by the time i go to get the car tuned.

what gear are you in by the 1/8th mile?

I'll have to see if I can see the guages in the in car videos. I drive by ear and feel. I dont even use a shift light and I dont even look at the tach.

Anyone going 11's is in 4th by the 1/8th mile I am pretty sure. That's why the backhalf is so easy/consistant. Just stay in it {thumbup}

Thank you

You can calculate which gear you are in by your MPH pretty easily. You just need to know your gear ratios, tire diameter and RPM that you shift at from 3rd to 4th.

Here is a simple calculator:

http://www.woodyg.com/fairlane/finfo/mph.html

According to Most-Wanted's first post, he's doing 91-92MPH a tthe 1/8th. Assuming he had stock tire size of 235/45R17's at the time and shifted at 7400 RPM, anything over 87MPH means he was in 4th when he crossed the 1/8 mile beams. If he shifted above 770 RPM, he was at the very top of 3rd.

I'm right at my rev limiter set at 8200 on the 1/8th. I try to carry out 3rd as much as possible on the 1/8th.

Most Wanted - what do you recommend for shift points...i know its been asked a million times, but do you still recommend 7200 for all gears? stock evo ix turbo btw...my dyno graph is in this thread i made

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...93-octane.html

peak 364whp at approx 6800rpm peak 358wtq approx 3550rpm. sorry the graph kind of sucks but the scanner sucks. hp starts falling at 7300 (which is the end of the graph)

im on stock bbs mr wheels with goodyear eagle f1 gsd3 255/40/17 tires usually around 23psi all around. best time below

R/T - .198
60' - 1.665 (two step at 5500rpm building approx 10psi)
1/8 - 7.761
MPH - 88.16
1/4 - 12.171
MPH - 108.11 (probably due to poor tire size)

i need to break 11's!!! thanks!

He only recommends 7200 rpm for the 1-2 shift, 7400rpm for all others. Looking at your boost curve, I'd say you fit in that category.

Yeah, what he said:) It just seems to work best. Every car is slightly different based on weight, tire, etc... But 7200 and then 7400 has proven to work really well.

thanks to both of you for the answers!

This is my first post on here, great read and felt like I had to say something. I must admit you do things differently in the US to here in Europe (Ireland).

My best time so far is 12.6ET but my best 60ft is 1.6seconds with minimal tuning (standard engine), but a standalone ecu in a full weight evo 5 (including spare wheel while on the strip...forgot I hadn't taken it out) on Toyo proxie road tires at 30psi on standard wheels. I'm still using the standard turbo and cams. Also running our watered down excuse for petrol (here in Ireland we cannot get high octane fuel until recently, but it's not readily available and has an inconsistant octane rating). Far from impressive times I know...shame on me!

Typically I launch between 5000 and 5500rpm. I run without launch control but do have anti lag.

grrr....12.092, 12.094, 12.097, 12.080.
60 footer 1.722, 1.762, 1.669, 1.678. (the 1.6's were with doing mini burnouts at the line to get tires warm/dirty and dust off)
MPH 115 all across.
1/8 mile 7.730-7.747 @ 89.3-90.4 MPH
tires 22 psi front 23 psi rear launching at 5812 rpm.

bump for Most-Wanted

Thanks:) Raise the two step to about 6200 and lower tire pressure to 21psi. Your almost there. Good runs regardless. I know you can get the 60's down to low 1.6's...

Most-wanted you mentioned the S-Techs work good for you and I have them as well. Between that and the lower tire pressure my 60's have been consistantly in the 1.6's.

Next year I'd like to get on a road course and don't think the S-techs would be all that great for it so I'm thinking about swift springs or coilovers. I know I'll do more 1/4mile events than road course so I don't want to loose a lot of ground switching to the wrong setup. Any thoughts? I'm thinking coilovers due to there adjustability.... softer at the 1/4 and stiffer at the road course?

Well definitely go with coilovers. There are many benefits and the weight savings is huge. Switching to swift springs would be pointless in my opinion since you already have a spring. Find a nice all around coilover. I like my Apexi N1's. They are among the lightest and best overall. They are by no means the best road racing coilover with Motons and Ohlins being the top performers. But on a budget and switching between RR and Drag events they are a happy medium... Hope this helps a little.

Well the s-techs are good for Drag but not RR, I didn't know if the Swifts, that are good for RR, would be too stiff for drag. If they would work good without hurting my 60' then it definitely be the cheapest way to go. If not then it sounds like coilovers would be the best bet to suite both tracks and I'll look into the N1's.

I know I can't expect the best for both worlds and if I'm going to sacrifice one track over the other it would be RR. Swifts or low end coilovers like Megan's would be good enough for me at RR since I'm not competitive in that at all. My RR experience will be just open track days with some friends (for now:D). Now Drag, I will be getting into more and more competitons.

@ most-wanted

Evo8 MR
could you break down my time slip? I was running on a friends enkei rpf01 on nitto nto5 tires 235/40/17. I was shifting to 5th by about the 1000th marker at 7k rpms. I tried running it out to 8k in 4th but it was just shy of the ET light. If I switched to 245/45 should I be able to run out 4th?
forgot to take picture of the feet.

60' 1.87
330
1/8
mph 89.69
1000
1/4
Attachment 294107

Not Most-wanted but maybe I could help you a bit, it seems all you need to do is work on that 60' foot, the 330 mark seems a bit slow so maybe a bit of practice on that 1-2 shift will help your times a lot too, good luck on the 11's you're pretty close.

Ask a lot of the good drag racers and they will tell you that the 1-2 shift is one of the most important parts of a 1/4 mile drag race. Btw it is much much easier to shift the 1-2 when you get a good launch than when you're spinning tires, I learned this the hard way.

You need to avoid the 5th gear shift. It will kill your et. Raise the rev limiter to about 8400 and maximize the 1-2-3 gears(shifts 7200-7500 give or take a few hundred). Also practice the 1-2 to get slightly better 60' times. You should be able to manage low-mid 1.6's. Practice makes perfect. Tire pressure needs to be around 20 psi also so make sure you check that. And most importantly check them when they are hot and after the first run. If you set them to 20 psi and then make a run or two they will creep back up. So its best to do it when they are warm and I check mine every run to keep the variables consistent. Good luck...

@ most-wanted thanks, I will do all those and get new/better tires 245/45. I will be out there again when season opens.

I'm so glad I saw this thread, I love your car man. Blue {thumbup}

Most Wanted: Very awesome thread man. Can you give me some insight also? I don't have my timeslips on me, but I'm running a 7.90 @ 89.6 mph with a 1.9xx 60 ft. I know for a fact that my car has the potential to be running better than 7.90's but I cannot stop spinning for the life of me. My tires were only at 28 psi, so I'm assuming that lowering them to 20 next time should help a lot? My 2 step is at 6000 right now. And my power is in my sig. Thanks bro!

Definitely lower your tire pressure some. I typically run mine around 20-22psi (with tires warm). You might want to lower your two step some as well. I know every setup is different, but 5500rpms seemed to work best for me when I was around that range. For reference, I went 7.67 @ 89.8 with a 1.64 60ft. I slow 1-2 shift kept me from breaking 11's on that pass.

Yeah, I'm thinking my 1-2 shift is also a problem too. I just dunno how the hell to make it faster...it's such a quick gear.

No way lowering the 2 step to 5500 is better. It needs to be 6000 at a minimum. You adjust wheelspin on the launch with the right foot... It is critical to keep the rpms up.

What size of tires and what brand of tires do you recommend for a 17x7" wheel?

Bumping a old thread cus is worth it. Lots of good info in here.

I've been buried in the 12s, and have been assuming that I'm a 12 second driver, 12.1s and 12.0s everywhere over the past couple years.

This year I'll be changing that and getting my low 11s, mod list in sig. :)

Subscribed

What are you trapping? I'm assuming your on the factory clutch. Is it possibly slipping. You definitely have the mods to get you there and some. Also, not sure what the point of running e85 is at only 24psi, you could be doing that on pump.

Bringing this one back from the grave. I've just finished reading through this entire thread and appreciate most-wanted's recommendations. I'm getting so fed up of running ****ty 60ft times. I rarely get seat time in my evo at the track because of work and how much rain we get in Vancouver. Add to that I get maybe 4 runs on a night with 30m-1hr gaps because of bad luck with track delays and guys breaking stuff. Anyway, I have more than enough power to crack a low 11/high 10 with a good 60ft but have been struggling for the past couple years to better an 11.6.

Based on reading this thread I think my two main problems are:
I'm keeping the clutch planted instead of just below the engagement as per most-wanted's "trigger" example) while on my stationary rev limiter which is set pretty low at 5,250rpm (I'm paranoid about slipping the clutch by letting out too slowly / letting it out too quickly and damaging the tcase)

My two best ET's with the car are within a couple hundreths of one another but with completely different 60ft, shifting and resulting trap speeds:

60 ... 2.197 1.834
330 ... 5.285 4.961
1/8 ... 7.753 7.580
MPH ... 103.47 92.65
1000 ... 9.854 9.794

1/4 ... 11.632 11.614
MPH ... 127.24 124.22

car makes 520whp/480ft-lbs on dyno jet and weighs 3250lbs. I'm running an exedy twin HD with ACT monloc. Looking at my trap speed which is consistently in the 126mph range - a low eleven, even a high ten should be doable.

Left run

• Shifting around 7500rpm (staying in the powerband as the boost and power start to drop off soon after.
• 245/35/18 Pilot Super Sport @ 32psi (I know...way too high).
• Evo 9 has a shorter 4th gear so I end up shifting into 5th hence the higher trap speed.

Right run

• Shifting around 8250rpm (power drops off...just wasting time needlessly).
• 265/35/18 RE71R @ 27psi
• Ran out 4th gear but keep hitting the limiter just before crossing the line (rev limiter is at 9k as the valvetrain is built to handle it)

Here are my questions if anyone has input and experience I'd really appreciate it:

1. I want to try running around 20-22psi in the tires but a few people have told me that it's not safe to go below 25psi because of the stiff sidewall. I'm asking from a safety (later down the track) and performance perspective if it's okay to try or not.
   
2. Is it really worth increasing the stat rev limit to 6,250rpm? I feel like this is overkill for my setup which is already spinning like crazy and building solid boost off the line.
   
   Note: My stat rev limiter is 5,250rpm and I build over 20psi at the line). My issue is that I mostly spin off the line and then hook in second. Even though I'm slipping the clutch I know for sure I'm letting the clutch out too quickly and not modulating my right foot on the throttle. I'm thinking it might be worth leaving my launch rpm as is and focusing on getting a solid hand of the engagement point and slipping it properly. I figure if I get that down and still see 1.8+ 60ft times then the problem is either tire pressure/launch rpm or both. Right now my 60ft times are consistently in the 2.0 range :crap:
   
   
3. I should also mention my alignment settings are somewhat aggressive as I run muellerized Ohlins set up for AutoX: F -3* camber / R -1.8* with Toe F 0 / R 1/16" In. which could be affecting things as well.
   
4. I am installing energy suspension rear diff bushings. I've read and been told that these should help wheel hop and 60ft times. I'm also hoping it cleans up some of that "slack" drivetrain feeling when putting around town in 1st/2nd gear at low rpm and throttle. Any truth to these things? What did you guys notice if you did this mod?

Seems like you have answered your own questions. Turn up the rev limiter and don't sit on it as long. Shift earlier to stay in the power band till fourth then rev the sucker out. {thumbup}

Building too much boost on the line can cause you to spin due to all the torque. Turning up the two step will help you fall into the right rpm range while quickly slipping the clutch. Boost will build quickly if you are in the right rpm range for the turbo. Hope that makes sense. :beer:

With my FP Red, I would set the 2step to 6200. Build about 5psi maybe 10psi on the line and go. Don't worry about trying too much build boost on the line.

I cut consistent 1.7 60' times with street tires.

This is what I've been searching for the past week. Just looking to see what mid- low 7 1/8 slips look like... I'm mostly stock and have a best of 8.40 (1.85 60' leaving around 5500). Now I see a few more things to try and get the most of of this setup before I start putting on the fp black and supporting mods. And I know my clutch will have to get changed soon.

Although it's been years now since I ran I do remember getting the 60' down was tough for me at first as well. I went from consistent 1.9's to consistent 1.6's just from adjusting my 2-step and clutch slippage. I was running stock size Hankook Ventus HRII's at the time as well. My 2-step was set at 6100 or 6200rpm if I remember right toward the end. I think I was building just under 15lbs of boost at launch. Like was already mentioned, if you build to much all you do is blow off the tires even with AWD.

As for the clutch I had the Cusco Twin Disc which I believe is the same as the Excedy. I would slip it for a little time at launch just to keep it at the edge of traction. Don't get me wrong, it takes some practice and it is a fine line between a 1.6 and a 1.9 60'.

As far as tire pressure goes I was running about 20 or so PSI in mine and never had a problem.

With your MPH you should be knocking on 10's for sure. I was running mid/upper 10's with only 4mph more then you.