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Originally Posted by aznj
(Post 5008776)
Honki24's pic......
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...1&d=1195829882 why would you want to run it so lean in that low load- high rpm block? sorry if this is a newb question..... atmospheric bov maybe? (easy answer: yeah basically it's to compensate for the VTA aspect of the APS BOV) <APS diverts and vents> |
Originally Posted by razorlab
(Post 5009167)
You can basically add as much timing as you want with VP Import. It just refuses to knock. However, at the same time, you need to know when to stop. If you aren't seeing 5+ or so gains per 1 degree you need to stop. I think I remember reading that 9sec9 added a couple degrees even after he only saw 1-2hp gains. I think that's crossing over into dangerous territory but his car is making some power.
16* at peak torque and 30* up top is nuts, I've heard some horror stories of VP import in the wrong hands. Hopefully 9sec9 doesn't become one of them because he seems like a really good guy. |
I wonder what the power difference would be if you ran the standard EVO/DSM C16 timing map of 8*- 20*.
Seems strange to say all that the majority of your above average power is really a result of VP IMPORT. |
1 Attachment(s)
My map:
Xs fmic, injen licp, walbro fp, hks turbo back, 10.5 hotside, hks intake,Forge dv, megan o2 housing and manifold, boost at 22.5 with hallman pro Attachment 301432 |
Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
(Post 5012677)
I wonder what the power difference would be if you ran the standard EVO/DSM C16 timing map of 8*- 20*.
Seems strange to say all that the majority of your above average power is really a result of VP IMPORT. edit: I forgot to say that power would drop off dramatically with 8*/20*. I see sizeable power losses when using 24-25 uptop. I also gained 25 Mustang whp in the tune, with a lot of it being in the timing/h20-meth areas. |
LOL.... I know what you mean... that probably was a little rough.
What does the car make on 101 octane? |
how the hell do you get a pic of your maps...? im tryin but theres no way :crap:
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Originally Posted by Duh Panda
(Post 5019493)
how the hell do you get a pic of your maps...? im tryin but theres no way :crap:
2) Hold ALT and hit PRTSCN 3) Open Paint from Start > Programs > Accessories 4) Go to Edit > Paste 5) Crop & Save the pic as PNG |
Originally Posted by tephra
(Post 4984971)
guys save as PNG - jpg artifacts too much :)
Originally Posted by ShamelessCookie
(Post 4977533)
Bring up your map and hold ALT and hit PRTSCN
Now Start > Run > mspaint Hit CTRL + V to paste it in. Save it as a JPEG. Upload and you're done!
Originally Posted by Duh Panda
(Post 5019493)
how the hell do you get a pic of your maps...? im tryin but theres no way :crap:
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2 Attachment(s)
Attachment 301414
Attachment 301415 mods are 3" tbe, walbro hpf255, Jdm Bov, Ams frontmount with lower piping, k&n drop in, greddy profec b, Act hdss with prolite flywheel, what do you guys think? :) 91 octane and 21 psi |
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^^ thats a huge block of 7s...this your own map from scratch? Or one you had done and are now fixing up?
Relatively conservative for 92 Octane and 23psi, here's mine: |
Originally Posted by codgi
(Post 5019719)
^^ thats a huge block of 7s...this your own map from scratch? Or one you had done and are now fixing up?
There's some more power to be made in that timing map for sure... I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why the apparent love for the number 7 shows up in that map... :lol: :shocked: |
^ If he were to trace a full throttle pull I doubt the 7s would be used much. It just looks overly blocked. In action I'm sure its just fine.
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im learning hahah!!! anyone have any suggesttions on improving?
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Panda, I am new to the ECU tuning. I would suggest doing some pulls and logging the info. Set out you load cell and rpm and see where your at on the AFR's. Also as for timing see where it loads at and if no knock add a degree in the area of load.
Anyone that is a guru chime in and tell me if this is wrong. Pretty sure this is the right way to approach tuning though. |
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