I think the perrin is gonna be my first mod. I've heard you need a ball compresser and need to cut some plastic to install the perrin, is it really that hard? Is there any other way to get the to get in without needing the heavy duty tools? BTW niec writeup :thumbup:
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my car is sittin at altered getting it installed as we speak =)... along with a few other things ;) 12 sec club here i am!
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What did you use to weight the shaft below the shift knob?
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Nice review {thumbup} I wanted to get that perrin short shifter also but i was wondering, would that work on the base lancer OZ?
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Very nice review. {thumbup}
You should be able to get lead blocks from a marine supply place, heaviest and cheap metal. Drill it using lots of oil and you could get a real snug fit on the shaft. Now this is going to have to be my next mod. :p |
Thanks a lot for the write up! I had been debating on purchasing the perrin, but after seeing this my decision has been made! As far as the instalation goes, like others I hear that it's really a ***** to install with the modification required...is that the case. I'll probably have to bite the bullet on this one anyway, and have someone install it for me. Thanks bro!!
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Keep in mind that shifter feel preferences are some what subjective. What felt better than sliced bread at 2AM in my garage, isn't quite the same in the middle of the day after a good night sleep :D . After driving around for a couple of days and fiddling with it, I still think the heavy shift knob is key, but I am not sure all of the additional counter weight I added was necessary.
After moving the shifter up and adding all the counter weight I practically eliminateddd the notchy feeling. After driving around like this and practicing some aggressive shifting I realized that I actually preferr a little notchyness in the shifting. It helps define the gates especially under agressive shifting. I also found that with the longer shift knob and the lever angled forward, it was a little too far forward. Putting the lever angle in any other position did not feel right either, so I have made three adjustments since my last post. I took the lever back out and hammered out almost all of the the bend, the position seems to be much better like this. I set the shifter as short as I could possibly get it and removed the extra counter weight so I only have the longer/heavier shift knob. After spending hours (work is slow right now), switching to various configurations, this seems to work best for me. Having the added weight in the knob seemed to feel much better than a light knob and added weight lower on the lever. Although if I can find a long heavy shift knob that is angled slightly forward relative to the threaded lever, that might be even better. BTW after my initial shifter comparison/test and tune, my friend with the B&M hammered out the bend in his lever and added a heavy shift knob. It worked very well for that shifter also, it's still to low IMO and if he extends the upper lever he won't have a short throw any more but... I actually got the idea to hammer the lever from him so... Awesome write up man. What are you useing to keep the sockets from clanking around on the shaft What did you use to weight the shaft below the shift knob? |
Very very nice. I thank youfor all this info even though we have 2 doffernt views on all of this it really helps me.
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Your welcome. Just curious, what's your preference?
Went to my track today http://www.motorsportranch.com , looks like this last adjustment is working really well for me. Eric |
SilverSurfer,
What weight on the shift knob to you feel works well, since you have played around with different setups. Razo sells weighted knobs in 200, 300, and 400 grams. 400 being the heavy one at 14.1 ounces. What's your opinion on what weight works well? Thanks {thumbup} |
Finally installed the Perrin tonight. Very nice piece. {thumbup}
Props to dustin at DRC Imports for getting it to me, hurricane and all. Silver Surfer, I don't know how you got the top part of the shifter box off. From the pics it looks like your shifter is whole. I cut into the weld on the weight at the top with a cutoff tool and then used a air hammer to knock it off. At least that way I still have the shifter. I don't have a press so no way I was getting the ball off and I really didn't want to cut the shifter in half. It really was not difficult but I needed to do some additional trimming once I put it back in for some extra clearance. I don't know where you set yours, I just went to the line for the shortest throw. That is pretty damn short and I will have to learn to drive it like that. Can't miss a shift now. :lol: The 340g shift knob is pretty good on there, but I think the 400g would work too. I may go back and adjust the position. I went with a rearward angle, pitched to the left. Seems a little to far to the rear. That is a nice feature, the shift adjustment and bend position. |
hey...anyone's Perrin SS feel very tough and notchy to shift? and sometimes it takes several tries to get it to lock in reverse or 1st?
-Shahul |
Originally posted by Shahul X hey...anyone's Perrin SS feel very tough and notchy to shift? and sometimes it takes several tries to get it to lock in reverse or 1st? -Shahul No problems with the gears at all but I extensively made sure the shift cable had good clearance in the box where you trim it. If not it will hit and you won't get full travel, especially on the sided to side. |
For you guys with the Perrin short shifters - I hate using aftermarket knobs with the 3 allen screw setups, in particular Momo. Do you know of the stock knob will work with the Perrin short shifter thread?
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Yes, it does.
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