It has finally been solved. I was desperate and since I already had it I put the 0.030 restrictor, that originally shipped with my turbo, pre OPR and have the 0.020" restrictor post OPR and it no longer smokes. Yay. this way I assume less oil will be bypassed at the OPR as well which i assume would keep more in the pan.:dunno: The gauge still shows the same 2-3 psi at hot idle and 12 or so cold. I don't know if it was that or just putting more miles on it but I think its good now. I also bought the correct oil drain from STM but haven't installed it yet. Supposedly the wrong one will eventually crack because it is stressed to get the bolts to line up.
EDIT: I also put the stock catback back on at the same time so as not to piss off my new neighbors (just moved). Not sure that would have anything to do with it smoking or not... |
Originally Posted by XSivPSI
(Post 11870629)
It has finally been solved. I was desperate and since I already had it I put the 0.030 restrictor, that originally shipped with my turbo, pre OPR and have the 0.020" restrictor post OPR and it no longer smokes. Yay. this way I assume less oil will be bypassed at the OPR as well which i assume would keep more in the pan.:dunno: The gauge still shows the same 2-3 psi at hot idle and 12 or so cold. I don't know if it was that or just putting more miles on it but I think its good now. I also bought the correct oil drain from STM but haven't installed it yet. Supposedly the wrong one will eventually crack because it is stressed to get the bolts to line up.
EDIT: I also put the stock catback back on at the same time so as not to piss off my new neighbors (just moved). Not sure that would have anything to do with it smoking or not... |
Originally Posted by Abacus
(Post 11870936)
Glad its working out. Could you get a oil pressure reading at 5000 rpm stationary with the oil around 180* .
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If you don't have an oil temp gauge then you may be able to just go drive around normal for 15 min then check it. Oil temp should follow coolant temps for the most part under normal conditions.
I would record all the readings once you know the oil is warm. I've got mine set at 10-12 psi at 5K with the oil at 180* FWIW. |
I am trying to decide where to locate the drain for the OPR. I see some of you are using the bottom inspection hole. Is there any way to get at that without taking turbo/o2 housing out?
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Originally Posted by Dexter Turner
(Post 11871269)
I am trying to decide where to locate the drain for the OPR. I see some of you are using the bottom inspection hole. Is there any way to get at that without taking turbo/o2 housing out?
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Great, that makes me feel a little better that I'll be able to get at it without taking anything extravagant off. Thank you.
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Originally Posted by Dexter Turner
(Post 11871271)
Great, that makes me feel a little better that I'll be able to get at it without taking anything extravagant off. Thank you.
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Yeah, I scrolled up and realized that after i replied. I will get underneath the car today and see.
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Originally Posted by XSivPSI
(Post 11870629)
It has finally been solved. I was desperate and since I already had it I put the 0.030 restrictor, that originally shipped with my turbo, pre OPR and have the 0.020" restrictor post OPR and it no longer smokes. Yay. this way I assume less oil will be bypassed at the OPR as well which i assume would keep more in the pan.:dunno: The gauge still shows the same 2-3 psi at hot idle and 12 or so cold. I don't know if it was that or just putting more miles on it but I think its good now. I also bought the correct oil drain from STM but haven't installed it yet. Supposedly the wrong one will eventually crack because it is stressed to get the bolts to line up.
EDIT: I also put the stock catback back on at the same time so as not to piss off my new neighbors (just moved). Not sure that would have anything to do with it smoking or not... I was thinking to try just the .030 before the turbo, after the opr. Running the dbb black and she’s a pisser. |
Originally Posted by boostedwrx
(Post 11934644)
if anyone can clarify, a restrictor was installed on each side port of the opr for this user? Essentially head -> .030 -> opr -> .020 -> turbo?
I was thinking to try just the .030 before the turbo, after the opr. Running the dbb black and she’s a pisser. |
Originally Posted by 240Z TwinTurbo
(Post 11934659)
You only need a single restrictor at the turbo, but check with FP for what size restrictor they recommend for the Black.
For those running without balance shafts, where would a good oil return be? The oil cap would “work” just looks ugly. I was thinking maybe the old stm oil dipstick with the AN fitting welded? |
Originally Posted by boostedwrx
(Post 11934672)
Thanks, pretty much what I was thinking.
For those running without balance shafts, where would a good oil return be? The oil cap would “work” just looks ugly. I was thinking maybe the old stm oil dipstick with the AN fitting welded?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...765a72b1c7.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...9f43b36f1d.jpg This is my return on the GTR... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...0b91315b52.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...5154c16259.jpg |
Inspection hole easiest IMO, but can it still be used if my block has balance shafts deleted? I’m not sure if the oil passages were blocked etc during the balance shaft delete, I guess that’s where I’m ignorant and where I’m stuck, if I (can) use inspection hole or not. Nice setup 240!
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Originally Posted by boostedwrx
(Post 11934680)
Inspection hole easiest IMO, but can it still be used if my block has balance shafts deleted? I’m not sure if the oil passages were blocked etc during the balance shaft delete, I guess that’s where I’m ignorant and where I’m stuck, if I (can) use inspection hole or not. Nice setup 240!
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