Originally Posted by hatesposers (Post 10882769)

Or....

You can remove the driver's side motor mount bolt. Jack the front (passenger side) of the engine up an inch or two, which gives you plenty of room to pull the alternator out.

The 2 minutes it takes to put the jack under the engine, and remove the bolt, saves 15-20 minutes of struggling with bolts and pulling the alternator out.

I've R&Red 2 alternators on Evos. Both took about 20 minutes tops.

Originally Posted by vortico (Post 11051018)

Where do you place the jack under the engine for this? I am assuming the oil pan would be a bad idea. And for the driver's side mount you are refering to the one under the oem battery tray right?

Originally Posted by jrainwater (Post 11175904)

I am going to install a new 180 amp alternator next week but I'm also going to install a ported intake manifold and throttle body at the same time so I assume it will be easy as hell.

Originally Posted by sgambino92 (Post 11175900)

i plan on going the motor mount way because it seems the easiest but my question is, am taking out the bolt on the drivers side and jacking up the passenger side or vice versa? the guy above said take out drivers side motor mount bolt and jack the passenger side up but i cant see how this could possibly work. so if anyone can give me some input that would be great. thanks!

Originally Posted by EGbeater (Post 11203854)

I just R&Red my alternator from the top; thanks to the OP ( __pg ) for putting the info out there for the rest of us!

This is what I did:

• Disconnect the negative terminal of battery
  
• Remove passenger side front wheel
  
• Release serpentine belt from the alternator pulley with 1/2" breaker bar on the belt tensioner
  
• Disconnect main power output wire from alternator (12mm nut); unplug other 4-wire molex connector
  
• Remove alternator bracket (three 12mm-head bolts)
  
• Remove main alternator fixing bolt (14mm nut towards the middle of the car). Don't drop/lose the nut and split washer!
  
• Remove dipstick (just pull out the dipstick itself, I didn't remove the dipstick tube); plug the tube with a wad of paper towel to prevent dropping anything into it
  
• Remove nut and three bolts (all 12mm) so ABS unit/bracket is loose
  
• Remove fuel pressure regulator (two 10mm-head bolts); leave the vacuum lines hooked up. A fair amount of fuel will leak out of course. Ziptie the FPR out of the way (towards the driver's side of the engine bay)
  
• Pull alternator out by orienting the pulley side towards the center of the car, so that it'll just barely clear the intake manifold/dipstick/end of the fuel rail. Be careful not to get too rough and damage any of the brake lines coming out of the ABS unit. Also make sure not to damage the end of the fuel rail with the alternator casing as you're working to slip the alternator up and out.

TIP: If you need just a HAIR more clearance to get the alternator out, just put a pry bar between the unibody and the passenger-side motor mount, and pry the entire engine toward the driver's side. You can get about 2–3mm more room by doing that, which is all I needed.

I should mention that my Evo doesn't have the A/C line as I've removed the A/C for weight savings, so that might have made it easier than on a car with the A/C still there. I didn't have to unbolt the bracket for the power steering line on the motor mount though.


I didn't bother to remove any engine mount bolts, but I'm sure he meant to remove the PASSENGER side engine mount bolt in order to jack up the engine by the oil pan (with a piece of wood to protect the pan) to create a little more room.

Originally Posted by CaptainSquirts (Post 11829480)

Old bump but just letting future peeps that try top or bottom that I have done both. Bottom is def way easier. Doing it from the top was a lot harder but you might get lucky and shimmy it out quick or unlucky and take forever like it did for me. I did have to rent an axle puller tho to get the axle removed from the hub since its rusted on but still would rather do bottom again.

Originally Posted by Project_Broke (Post 11829648)

I would tend to argue this. So it must be all in who is doing it.

Done it 4 times, 1 time from underneath, 3 from up top.

Top was an hour faster. Also, less headache.

Don't know why anyone mentions removing the tensioner, not needed, at least how I do it.

To add to this, a 4g64 Eclipse alternator that you get off the shelf at the parts store fits the Evo fine, and no special order. Alt is a smidgen smaller, so it actually installs easier. Same amps/wiring.

Originally Posted by BeyondLimitsEvo (Post 11833873)

So the alternator from a 2005 Eclipse with the 4G64 engine will work? I need to replace the alt in my '03 VIII.

Originally Posted by BeyondLimitsEvo (Post 11833873)

So the alternator from a 2005 Eclipse with the 4G64 engine will work? I need to replace the alt in my '03 VIII.