Yea mines right at the fitting between cooler and where it enters the engine. right on the engine side.

Well shucks. It's not often I make smart financial decisions when upgrading my car, but after getting full specs on a 4 stage system to vacuum the head and adding the air oil separator....the cost was over $6000....and this is before $450 external Peterson oil tank....and $1000 lines and connections....and labor.


Expensive part to help with my blow bye issue. Hopefully my new motor will greatly reduce the blow bye issues I had. My AMS pan has got me around several sweeping right hand corners thus far.....and I guess it will have to do for now. Was concerned running break in miles on a dry sump? Almost seems better to add it later anyway. :crap: This isn't fun when you stress over high cost parts etc...


Was really looking forward to this "Unicorn Piece" of my build.

The old saying bites again. You can be fast, reliable, or cheap - but only 2 at the same time.

ahh man. nothing wrong with doing break in kms on a drysump. theres essentially no difference between dry and wet sump. almost better on drysump cause u have a higher volume of oil.

Sounds like u need to re consider the norris drysump kit which is half the price of hte one uve had priced up ;)

my drysump got rid of all my blowby issues

How do you have your vent/breather lines run ?

i have 2 AN fittings welded onto the rocker cover where the original ones used to be. and i have them running back to the tank. then the tank has a line running to a vent box/catch can in the boot

Exactly how I have mine.

Welded fittings to the Mg valve cover?

he might have AL cover..

sorry they might be bulkhead fittings rather than welded to be honest. id have to go look. been like that for years

Yeah that would probably be the most common way ,do you get much oil at the tank catch can?
I dont have mine up and running yet but i seen a post somewhere from JHH racing where the valve cover was run to scavenge and the crankcase had the breather,-16 or bigger, they dont pull vacuum

Well good news. Right when I got done crying and accepted I couldn’t afford a dry sump, a good EVO friend who Associates with the RS gang decided he wasn’t going to use his new Magnus kit. I picked it up, and now planning to install the Magnus Dry Sump!

I’ll have plenty of install questions. It’s only got 3 stage. I want to add the 4th stage to vacuum the valve cover as soon as I can.

Starting with a new 4g64 block, new Billet knife edged crank, new pistons, bearings, refreshed stage V IX head, new valves, and all the new belts pulleys etc.....I’m excited and broke all at the same time. ��. Still have my old 4g64 block I plan to sleeve. Had the forged crank balanced and polished. Might build a back up on the stand.

I wouldn't worry about adding a 4th stage unless you see issues that require you to need it.

Yeah, don't really need the 4th stage, we don't get "a lot" of oil hiding up in the head, especially since you should have a kiggly HLA, and the dry sump will be pumping the appropriate amount of oil, as opposed to the stock pump which pumps all the oil out of the pan...lol.


You won't have drainback issues from the head sine the dry sump will be pulling a vacuum in the crank case, air won't be going up the oil return ports to try and escape from the valve cover vents.

i dont have 4th stage. dont need it as far as i know. u hook up the rocker cover breathers back to the tank and thats all u need.