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kyoo Jun 18, 2021 02:44 PM


Originally Posted by Dallas J (Post 11936898)
In the grand scheme thats not too terrible for drop off and just be done with it. My last motor splosion cost about 5500 for the motor build (and I got the block for effectively $50) and had to do a basic trans rebuild for $1500. And it took a few months to get back on the road.

yeah, props to RS for how fast they got this thing back on the road. One single week, and it's ready to hit the track again (after I break in some more).

RazorLab Jun 18, 2021 04:36 PM

If they did dyno pulls with it… it’s already broken in. Change the oil and send it.

kyoo Jun 19, 2021 09:36 AM


Originally Posted by razorlab (Post 11936907)
If they did dyno pulls with it… it’s already broken in. Change the oil and send it.

yea i think that may have just been out of necessity from how it was running? said it's still got break-in oil in it and i should flush the oil twice before a track day.

deylag Jun 19, 2021 11:27 AM


Originally Posted by kyoo (Post 11936931)
yea i think that may have just been out of necessity from how it was running? said it's still got break-in oil in it and i should flush the oil twice before a track day.

Just confirming, is this a stock block rebuild? How many miles did they say to run it on the break-in oil?

kyoo Jun 19, 2021 03:21 PM


Originally Posted by deylag (Post 11936934)
Just confirming, is this a stock block rebuild? How many miles did they say to run it on the break-in oil?

yeah totally same stock block. I think my setup is solid and the issue i experienced I think was more of a freak accident. i think the head studs they installed may be slightly different but everything else is the same. oh and the solenoid bypass and no balance shaft anymore
didn't say specifically but he knows my time frame to the next event so I'm just planning on doing a few hundred miles

kyoo Jun 20, 2021 07:57 AM

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...76878403cb.jpg
the hose that apparently cost me 8.8k

Dallas J Jun 20, 2021 09:17 AM

This is why I want to get safeties in the ECU. Could have easily been logging fuel pressure to compare to boost and protected it.

kyoo Jun 20, 2021 07:55 PM

i still can hardly believe that little whatever in the hose caused an entire engine to overheat and fail

Dallas J Jun 20, 2021 08:41 PM


Originally Posted by kyoo (Post 11936977)
i still can hardly believe that little whatever in the hose caused an entire engine to overheat and fail

Just so your lesson isn't forgotten, I went out and double checked my FPR is both only sourced from intake manifold without plastic T's and zip tied in place. All good on my end! {thumbup}

Bee-Raddd Jun 20, 2021 09:27 PM

Holy TLDR you guys talk more than a bunch of women at a bottomless brunch!

so recently on track i had the fuel feed line from my surge tank to manifold blow off. The haltech reconised the AFR change on the o2 sensor and instantly pulled timing and cut the motor. i was 30psi full boost at 500kw power doing around 200kmh at the top of 5th gear. probably around 6000rpm at the time.

We replaced the hose and clamp and sent it no damage at all.

This. is. why. its. worth. a. better. computer.

This isnt the only time this has happened. Freak failures like this occur especially on track. you need the tools to not only log but to automatically have safety cut outs.

Ive had my drysump pump belt snap also at high speed and RPM and the ecu instantly recognized the oil pressure drop and killed the motor, No damage done.


Dont under estimate the value of spending a little bit on an aftermarket ECU. i dont even have gauges in the car anymore because you just cant monitor or react fast enough. $1500 for a decent ECU is cheaper than $8500 for an engine ;)

Also Kyoo on your failure. do you run a flex fuel sensor?


Dallas have you packed my hubs yet ;)

And who makes the best tubular rear subframes?

Dallas J Jun 20, 2021 10:03 PM


Originally Posted by bee-raddd (Post 11936980)
Dallas have you packed my hubs yet ;)

And who makes the best tubular rear subframes?

Yesss! I have the label here just need to drop off. Huge slacker tho, should have sent out last week.. ugh, damn work has decided to crush my soul.

But Ive heard enough about safeties potentially ruining a race but saving a motor that would have ruined the race anyways to get me on board. We arent professional teams here, just hobbiest out to have some fun so a little forethought to save us from our lack of forethought is money well spent.

abnt89 Jun 21, 2021 03:56 AM


Originally Posted by bee-raddd (Post 11936980)

And who makes the best tubular rear subframes?

I'd be interested in the tubular subframe discussion as well. I know I was talking to Dan over at Diamond Race Cars recently and they have some in stock right now (front and rear). But if I was in NZ, I would probably just go with Racefab.

How many of you guys are running tubular subframes and was there a noticeable difference in handling or response? Or was it mainly the weight savings that made you switch?

kyoo Jun 21, 2021 07:49 AM


Originally Posted by Dallas J (Post 11936981)
Yesss! I have the label here just need to drop off. Huge slacker tho, should have sent out last week.. ugh, damn work has decided to crush my soul.

But Ive heard enough about safeties potentially ruining a race but saving a motor that would have ruined the race anyways to get me on board. We arent professional teams here, just hobbiest out to have some fun so a little forethought to save us from our lack of forethought is money well spent.

agreed as well. though i'm not sure who can tune in all those safeties. what ecu is only 1,500 though?

EVO8LTW Jun 21, 2021 07:54 AM

Maybe move the ECU discussion to a specific thread?

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...ts-thread.html


RazorLab Jun 21, 2021 07:59 AM

No proper motorsports ECU is only $1500 actually working in a car. The harness alone is $500-$1200. Then add sensors for all the things people are wanting in this thread, etc.


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