As much as I love poly stuff, once they dry out you get the squeaks of death! I would look in to having some custom delrin/teflon bushings made.

I'm ok with the few hours a day hard labor as long as I can put it all back together :) It seems every time I use one of these very popular and busy tuner shops in houston something else gets messed up. sometimes i discover years later *sigh*. now i'm seeing my clutch was replaced but I dont think they actually resurfaced the FW, they didnt want to bother ordering a new one :(. clutch disk seems bent as 1 puck if floating when I lay it on the FW.

yeah I can feel the difference fresh grease makes especially with softer-than-stock swaybar setting

So after canvassing fellow competitors and finding out im about 200- 300kg heavier than most of them Im going to take the car on a weight loss crusade. I remember there was an old superthread which ill dig up which had weight loss and what removing certain components had gained people.

Im even more curious about what structure can be chopped out of the car without losing rigidity. I think the first big ticket item will be to chop the roof off and replace with a carbon item. and while im at it get rid of all the double skins around the a, b and c pillars.

Somebody who also owns an evo mentioned about cutting all the floor out from the fuel tank back but i thought this might be a bit extreme. The floor material seems quite light so im wondering if there would even be much advantage to doing something like this. Ive already cut away th spare wheel structure as much as i can.

I guess im mainly worried about not chopping too much out that the car becomes a floppy mess. or chopping things out but then having to add bars in to add rigidity which negates the point of chopping the structure out in the first place weight wise.

I also have highlighted that i could do front and rear tubular subframes and carbon driveshaft etc and they are on the list but also $$$

On a side note skyline is back from the restoration shop and is eligible to import to USA from July if anybody is in the market ;)

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...6306c9c164.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...3de430dcf0.jpg

Whats it weigh now? IIRC, Zach got the FP (autocross class) Evo down in the 2250 range before ballasting up with ~450lbs. I dont recall the build thread name or his board name (something along the lines wannabegts) but he detailed a ton of work on it.

2250 thats as far as im aware lighter than even the tilton evo!

The white evo 4/5 in the photos is only like 1150kg(2500lb) my car currently sits at about 3000lb dry. I need to be around that 2500 - 2600lb mark i reckon

Found the thread. wanabgts is the name.

looks like they did the following:

Deleted Alternator and ran total loss system
Electric power steer
Smaller intercooler
Radiator to boot
Cut fuel tank in half
tiny brake discs

All interesting ideas especially the intercooler n radiator. Wonder how that would go in a full session at race pace and if inlet air temps and coolant temps would stay within range over 10 - 15 hard laps.

I'm about the same, 2960 or so dry before I put the dry sump in. If I ever get a break from other cars/work I need to get back on this horse.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...ild-log-6.html

Here's the page with weight, but under 2200lbs. Add back in the track necessities and 2400lbs for sure is possible.

The Blitz IC does fine, weighs about 1,000,000 lbs lighter then your standard bar and plate one. You have the aero for it.

Tube/Fin is the way to go for track cars. Heat is a 2way street with IC and the benefit of Bar/Plate is the capacity in drag racing. The Tube/Fin has really good flow through it for removing that heat and is well known for shedding it. Plazmaman also has some good Tube/fin IC kits.

i use the blitz! about the same weight as stock

As Im learning more and more with the Motec and its now got its baseline tune, Im still working out some bugs. One being, the walbro 450 without a rewire doesnt flow very much. At high boost I saw 100kpa of fuel pressure drop by redline. OOOF! Good thing motec compensates for that with adding duty cycle.

So I spent the last couple days working on the rewire for it. I have motec controlling the main high/low voltage transition and the extra rewire voltage based on throttle position and inlet manifold pressure. Basically I have 3 boost voltages.

With car off and no alternator power, I get 300kpa at low voltage, 350kpa if I activate factory hi-relay, and 400kpa with rewire engaged. And you can distinctly hear the difference in the pump at each power.

I also just got all the fittings to change out the feed line to -6an from the hanger to the rail after seeing Mychailo (MrFred) show at 500hp he saw a 15psi pressure drop in the line.

Seems like you are going the hard way. Get the ti295 pump and a pwm contoller and let the motec control it. Shouldn't have to change anything else.

Thats definitely the way I should have gone. At the time I started it all though I already had the pump so figured it should be an easy install since I had so many other things to sort.

Test drive this afternoon, differential fuel pressure is pretty solid. A bit of a spike right after I lift before the pump drops voltage but no harm there. I added a second reference to activate for each channel. 120kpa and 25% throttle for first and 150kpa and 50% throttle for the second. That helped the spike with throttle shutting things down quicker than boost drops.

Also interesting to see that not always does the rewired power jump in, only when I meet that threshold which is below just casual acceleration.