My car isn't super low. The height AND width are what make the 295/30 hard. IIRC Dallas's car was good to go on 285/30's, then need more work for 295's.

I can confirm that a 295/30 is more work than a 285/30. I mean it just makes sense that it would be. Your wheels should make it much easier in the rear and youre fine with the rear trailing arms. But youll still probably need bumper bolt relocation which is cake. But up front will require some work as well I ended up trimming the front of my side skirts ever so slightly fender liner bracket got trimmed and even the bottom most part of my lip required slight trimming. You'll need to figure out what to do with your front fenders too...Its all doable but you need to commit to it.

I agree that a 295 is harder to fit than a 285, but tire height can still be an issue. My car isn't crazy low either, when I last measured it the frame rail was ~6" off the ground up front. I don't have much of any wheel well liners left in the front, my fenders are spaced fairly generously, and I run an offset LCA bushing that pushes the wheel forward which gains a bit more clearance. My largest concern is rubbing the frame rail or the trans up front when going wider but that's nothing that a bit more spacer can't fix. You can run a 10.5 w/275 in the rear with minor shaving of the trailing arm but unless you REALLY pull the quarter panels you can't go any wider.

Yeah agreed the height does add its own set of challenges. Reminds me I need to still get some shorter springs bc mine are rubbing the lower perch. But I wanna say I ended up with around a 17mm spacer up front.

And keep in mind he bought the PF01s not the NT03s so he has 8mm more inward clearance in the rear than us.

The PF01s are great for clearance on the brakes and getting the wheels inboard. I dont run any rear spacer and just work the fenders with a little trimming. Didn't need to relocate the bolt but did trim the sheet metal up to it.

Fronts with the tire sitting next to the shock now feels easy on 295s, especially if you push the wheel forward and trim the bumper mount and relocated that bolt forward. I also cut the fender liners right above where the steel insert is so I could keep the liner over and behind the wheel. Now that I put the Flags on and tires have to sit next to the spring, that was another 3/4" of room I had to find which required more fender pulling, fender spacing, making special strut mounts to push the shock to within 1/4" of the inner fender well (the magic of my upright flexibility :D ), and some other little trimmings. Cant wait to get back to 285s and get my 1/2" of ride height back down but I have a couple sets of tires I still gotta finish killing.

I should take pics of how close everything is, its like mm or soft rub everywhere...

I've got a 20mm spacer up front to clear the spring perch and a 3mm in the rear to clear the trailing arm (the lettering on my sidewalls on the inboard has been wiped clean off from the trailing arm). I've got my eyes set on some 10.5 PF01s for a second set of track wheels but I think those will need more spacer until I get my trailing arms swapped out.

Do you mean 8mm more outboard clearance? The NT03 is a +30 and the PF01 is a +38 so the PF01 would sit 8mm further inboard, closer to the trailing arm.

I have a fabricated trailing arm with more clearance already. And we can change the tube if needed. I still have the jig. Once I test fit the PF01, I'll feel confident in selling the trailing armsz

Yes I worded that poorly. The PF01 would sit 8mm more inward thus having an extra 8mm of room to the rear quarters. And since Sean already has offset trailing arms he should hopefully have enough room inward and if not as he mentioned, can always tweak the arm for even more room if needbe.

With the old R/T Earnie trailing arm I have plenty of room for the 295s with 18x10.5 +38 wheels on the inside. The actual limit there seems to be rubbing on the actual body on the inside. Im not clear if its flex or OPR stuck to the tire doing the rubbing, but its been good enough.

Ayoustin and I are gonna fab up ~10 sets of trailing arms that will be part of the basis to work with the rear billet uprights.

Do you have more pictures of those pistons? That's cool looking!

Which piston do you want more pics of? The broken one or the new ones lol?

The new ones. Lol!
There's nothing to see on old. Lol
​​
Is that coating on bottom side of piston too?

I think so. I'll snap some more pics when I get off work. I picked up them up along with the black from the machine shop this morning.

It's not super common but there are coatings used on piston undersides for the purpose of shedding oil fast. Some people also coat their cylinder heads and oil passages in the block with it to drain oil back to the pan faster. In a perfect world there wouldn't be a single surface on an engine without some sort of coating.

hey, been meaning to ask, i think you've mentioned here and there:

re the acd tune & new t-case, what were the specs of the t-case? i'm surprised an acd tune would destroy a t-case, even one not "broken in" - the acd tune isn't THAT aggressive, only on probably launching & WOT etc is it going to fully lock, most other times it should actually be less "aggressive" ie be more open than the stock map..