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track cars like tilton never had a problem, their rad does not receive any direct airflow and its a nearly 1000hp race car. I am not worried but will keep an eye on temps, and oil temps. my main concern is oil not heating up properly in cold ambient temps. I have no real reason as to why. i had two and the fittings so i did it, maybe to keep things symmetrical? Either way i have a slew of gauges watching things. so i will know more once its back together and on the road. advantage of duals though, if it is to much, its easy to pull one back off or turn it into a trans or PS cooler.
Putting the car back together. New APR hard ware for the damper. New Manifold, had it coated as well as the WG and turbo exhaust housing. New oil feed and return lines as well. With the new manifold everything got pushed out and the slim fan wasent slim enough. Lucky my old turbo ninja one was even slimmer and i put that in there. super tight clearance to the turbo intake. I had to also cut and re-weld the WG dump as it was angled to high and hit one of the runners.
Not sure I have ever seen any Voltex Flares molded into the level i am doing it. And i know why, its a pain in the A$$. Bond coat 5 now to try and get everything super smooth. Alot of put bondo on and sand it back off trying to get everything uniform and even.
True Anodized is better for convection cooling. My worry is rock chips and how they will damage the finish. The car is going to be tracked and i have had alot of rocks shot at me at the track from cars, broken windshields and rock chips in the paint. So paint on the FMIC is something i can personally touch up, which is why i went with. Furthermore i did research on it reducing the FMICs efficacy due to the paint being an insulator and this is what i found.
Thermodynamics proves black is fine if its paint or Anodized. Anodized is better because its good at doing radiation and convection where painting can reduce convection due to insulation. However, convection is mainly in play on the fins of the FMIC, not the bars or end tanks. So painting the end tanks and the bars black where radiation will help alot and avoiding the fins, where convection is king, should be the key.
Mighty car mods did a myth bust on this and it only showed a 3% loss with black paint while in motion, but they painted the fins and tried very hard to get them covered with paint. I avoided them. While stationary the black paint made a huge difference as its all about radiation then. If MCM proved anything is that stationary black, even paint is good, but while moving it does reduce the effectiveness, slightly. I hope that by avoiding the fins as i did i can make that 3% back, making the fact its painted, even more negligible.
I am going to watch my IACs and see what kind of differences i get to see if the paint actually hurt things, if it does, i will chem strip it and consider anodizing. Like i said the main reason i went with paint though is the ability to do self touch up.
I've watched the MCM myth bust video you mentioned. I had my Buschur intercooler anodized black 5 yrs or so ago. Since then I probably put a little over 20k miles on the car. Anodizing faded slightly but I saw very little to no issues with rock chips.
test fit with OEM stuff.
Going to stop here for a few weeks until i get the rest of the body parts in. Then i will finish modding the over fenders, wet sand and prime for good.
WOW! Loving the cosmis wheels! I have a very very similar build to yours. Good to see how mine will turn out haha.
Are the canards custom? Not sure if i want to marry my front guards up with the bumper with modifying the front bumper or use the canards to offset the displacement like you have. I like!
Yes made them myself.
You probably dont have the same wheels as me or else you looking at a 2+inch fender pull. lol
These are stupid wide and not good for anything but tooling around town. I have another set of wheels for when i want to go quick. they dont fill the fenders out like these do.
