Back in 2011 I had an engine failure at Thunderhill. After trying to figure out a plan as to what needed replacing and what my goals were, I decided that my goals for this evo were to have a well balanced car. One that would perform well at the road course mainly, but could also be daily driven.

So here is a pic of the car on jackstands during the teardown process:



I wish I had a shop, but this is all I had to work with. Teardown and re assembly was done in this little garage. In hindsight I should have parked the car the other way so I could have put a cherry picker from the driveway, but luckily I didn't need one.

Plans were to originally put in a built shortblock. Heres my harbor freight special. It actually was really useful.



The teardown was put to a pause after this. Plans changed and decided to just go with a oem shortblock for now. Long story short I didn't re use my block, I sourced a low mileage, good condition shortblock on here so I decided to go that route. Heres some more disassembly pics.



Cant see in the pics, but since I took down the steering rack I decided to install the whiteline steering precision kit. I still had my oem bushings on there so I might as well upgrade since its out. Also decided since it was out to replace the seals on the fittings and replace the return lines. The line was starting to crack and look weathered and this again was a perfect time to replace.



transmission going out..




to be continued.......

 

Focusing on my plans and goals with the car I decided to go with a competition clutch stage 2 and a competition clutch flywheel



Heres a pic of the clutch with ACT's new monoloc. They released this product just in time when I was starting to put the engine back in. Lucky for me.

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/837/vtfv.jpg/]

I decided to do some other projects since I had everything apart. One was to relocate the acd pump. I relocated the pump to the trunk and went to a hydraulic shop and had them fab up some ptfe lined hoses with crimped on AN fittings. I believe I ended up needing roughly 12 feet.



finally routing and DEI heat sheath cover.



I don't have pics yet of how I mounted the pump. But main focus was weight distribution. Its always a compromise trying to figure out he best way to mount this thing. I ended up mounting in the spare tire well area towards the pass side. This is the lowest point in the trunk, keeps my pump out of the elements and while not quite in the middle, mounting more towards the passenger side is more ideal than the left side imo.


heres a pic of the the new engine getting put back together. A few modifications I decided on was to delete the balance shafts using the stub shaft.



to be continued.......

 

heres the block finally in.




So now at this point I wanted to change up my setup a bit. Previous mods before the engine failure were:

RMR Dp
Mil spec 100 cell hfc
RMR catback
walboro hp 255
spoolinup cop kit
ETS licp
ETS UICP
Tuned on 91 octane by FFTEC, made 273hp/271tq @ 22 psi (mustang dyno)

Mods going on the car now are:
stock evo 9 turbo, replacing my 8 turbo
MAP stage 1 head with std size supertech valves nitride intake/Inconel exh.
BC springs w/ titanium retainers
topline lifters
Kiggly HLA
Tomei poncam type R cams 270 dur. 10.7mm lift intake/ 10.2mm exh.
balance shaft delete w/ stub shaft
titek O2 housing
walboro 255 (already had)
ETS licp (already had)
ETS UICP (already had)
Spoolinup cop ( already had)
buschur racing ported oem exhaust manifold
RRE DP
OEM cat (Cali emission reasons, needs to smog)
HKS sport catback
ARC intercooler
ARP Head studs

heres a pic of the cylinder head I got back from MAP





cams,lifter,HLA, and cam gears installed.

 

So after getting the shortblock in. I relocated back to Southern California. Our new place didn't have a garage available so Installing the rest of the parts was not gonna be as easy. I pretty much had to finish it up in the parking area at our complex. lol

Heres the head and valve cover installed.



Because I was outdoors I had to make sure everything that was going in was as clean and debris free as possible. Ideally installing a fresh cylinder head should not be done outdoors. I made it work, luckily Southern California is not windy and weather is mild.





The intake and exhaust manifolds are installed.

After this I found a Evo shop close to me to finish up the car and get her tuned. KT Motoring in Chatsworth, Cool shop and cool people there. I talked to the owner Khiem about my goals and plans for the car, and where its at repair wise. Dropped it off and the very next day I got a text that the evo fired up and everything was good. Now just buttoning it up, mocking up my new oil cooler setup, and getting it tuned.

So at this point I just wanted to say special thanks to the folks that made my rebuild possible,

STM for their extremely vast inventory of oem parts and quick shipping
MAP for their excellent headwork and great products and quick shipping
KT Motoring for the excellent work they have done so far and for actually getting this car running.


Will update with more progress soon..

 

I can't remember, what was the reason for the failure?

 

Headgasket failure. After teardown inspection it looked like the stock head bolts failed. The gasket failed enough to introduce coolant into the combustion chamber which looked to have flash cooled the cylinders, destroying material from the combustion chamber, and somehow the valves seized or got bent in the process even though my timing belt and tensioner were fine.

The sad part was that I had plans to get Head studs put in before the upcoming track event, along with a wideband setup.

heres a link to that old thread. pics of my valves on page 2

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...sterday-3.html

 

Who tuned your car?

What was your boost and whp/tq?

Build looks great, glad to see it coming together

 

Tuned on 91 octane by FFTEC, made 273hp/271tq @ 22 psi (mustang dyno)

that was the original setup.

Currently its at KT Motoring. They are putting the finishing touches like fabbing up a scca legal box in the trunk for my battery, the tuning, and checking make sure all is ok with the motor. It fired it but hasn't been tuned yet so no hp numbers just yet.

 

Did you ever find the reason for the OEM studs stretching?

I ask because those are very mild numbers.

 

high egt, boost spiking, over revving. idk at this point it was so long ago. When it over heated it ruined the bearing on the water pump, or maybe that happened first causing an over heating issue compromising the gasket.

That day was a 2 driver event. my nephew was in the novice group. He wasnt too hard on the car but maybe that was too much stress, since our run groups were back to back. He could have over revved it accidentaly and begun the slippery slope to breakage. One thing I do remeber was how loose the head bolts were when i took them out. They were all barely finger tight, and my oil was burnt to a crisp. Stunk up the whole shop, my spark plugs had turned a dark grey from the heat, it was a mess.

Two things I learned from it, ARP headstuds and a wideband. I dont want this to happen again.

 

SCCA legal battery box? What are there requirements? I have a Taylor box behind the passenger seat

 

Nice job! I love garage builds

 

just a sealed box basicaly, just like yours. Nothing really special, I just didnt have anything for the battery to be mounted to. My p680 oddyssey just had a simple cover that was fine. Im not using that battery so I just need something for the one Im using.

 

Thanks. I was surprised how much of the drivetrain I was able to remove with just a 14mm,17mm, prybar, and 3 giant scoops of N.O. Fury. lol

 

Quoted for truth!