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nice hardware! Are you going to have an engine builder blueprint and assemble the bottom end or are you doing it yourself?
Thanks! They're engine builders on island. Will I be using their services you ask? Nope! Blueprint... what's that! (exactly what they would say)
A good friend of mine will be assisting me with the motor. Down here, It's more along the lines of..."if you want something done right, do it yourself". My friend's knowledge coupled with my OCD, I can take my sweet time to assemble my motor.
Up next I'm planning to buy the bearings and a torque plate, before I think about anything else.
Last edited by sumopower87; Nov 9, 2015 at 09:05 PM.
Currently in the car were ACL Race main and rod bearings. They were on there way out because I stared to notice little gold shavings to increase at every oil change. Despite the hydrolocking incident, I was already planning to pull the motor...just not like this
So... given the fact that I want nothing but the best for this new motor, I started searching.
My search lead me to a brand I'm sure many have heard about "King Bearings". I've seen a lot of positive results from them, and I'm really considering these bad boys over what I previously owned.
Who has had experience with both brands? Maybe you all could change my mind by providing some user feedback.
I would mic the crank and bore gauge the mains and make sure that the mfg you get the bearings from sells the correct sizes. Its not uncommon to need 2 sets of slightly different size bearings to get the right tolerances for every journal. Remember you need to torque down the main caps completely before measuring.
I would mic the crank and bore gauge the mains and make sure that the mfg you get the bearings from sells the correct sizes. Its not uncommon to need 2 sets of slightly different size bearings to get the right tolerances for every journal. Remember you need to torque down the main caps completely before measuring.
Thanks for the advice Biggiesacks. Tools are definitely going to be bought for this build. So far this is what I have on my list.
Thats a good list. If you dont already have them, i would add a set of brushes for cleaning the oil passages. If the block goes out for any machining its going to need it. Also if you install arp main studs you will need to align hone the mains. I also wanted to mention to double check if every torque spec is either dry or lubed. They will be different and mixing them up is a really bad.
Thats a good list. If you dont already have them, i would add a set of brushes for cleaning the oil passages. If the block goes out for any machining its going to need it. Also if you install arp main studs you will need to align hone the mains. I also wanted to mention to double check if every torque spec is either dry or lubed. They will be different and mixing them up is a really bad.
Got the Brushes already
What I normally do is.
1. Buy like 6 cans of brake cleaner and some engine degreaser.
2. Spray the block down with the engine degreaser and power wash the hell out of it.
3. I'll clean the holes out with the brushes before I power wash the block one last time.
5. Then I'll rinse the block off with a gallon or 2 of distilled water.
6. Blow it out dry with compressed air.
7. Drench every nick and cranny with the brake cleaner.
8. After the block is dry I'll oil it up where needed and wrap it.
Align hone the mains as far as I recall we don't have the machinery for that on island. We'll definitely be checking the clearances and torque specs.
Hope the Christmas break and New Years was enjoyed by everyone. It's been a little while since I last updated the thread, coming to you with with mixed emotions.
The reason being is because I decided to part out the Ole Girl.
A friend of mine gave me an offer that I couldn't refuse. This was something I had to battle with for pretty much 2 years. Making the decision to spend twice the money to rebuild the Evo 3 OR spend half and buy the Evo 7. Then he dropped the price for me (1k less).
Some specs on the Evo 7:
2001 EVO 7 JDM 5-speed
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
1000 cc PTE Injectors
Innovate LC1 WB
ETS equal length tubular manifold
Custom 3" TBE
Turbotrix intake pipe with HKS mushroom filter
HDI FMIC and Piping
Kelford 272 Cams
Turbonetics GTK550 ball-bearing oil and water cooled Turbo
Tial 44mm WGA
93 octane @ 27 PSI
VD 470Hp/366Tq
Other things to consider on the Evo 7, that I wanted for the Evo 3:
5 lug comes stock
Brembo Brakes
Wider fenders
More wheel choices
Jack's 'Indestructible' Transfer Case
Full 3" exhaust
I wouldn't have to worry so much about chassis flex.
I wouldn't have to change the roof panel.
90% of what's made for the Evo 8 can work on the Evo 7, which leads to more available parts.
I've already started the process of parting out the 3. Mixed emotions through the roof!!! I guess the best thing I did, was to hold off on buying other motor parts, and the parts that I did buy can swap right in, so if needed I'll still be able to build a 2.2L 4g63.
Sorry to be a let down, but spending the kind of money I was planning to spend was a little far fetched, and I kept lying to myself that I could do it Yeah Right!
What's most important to me, is the prevention of making friendships and most importantly my marriage from go sour. it's a tough choice, and the Evo 3 will always be my favourite, but unfortunately I have to say goodbye.
I'll eventually start a new thread when I sort a few things out.
I moved this to the build thread section. We can close it out if you'd like but there might be questions specific to this build so Im fine leaving it open.
Oct 2, 2015, 01:45 PM
Despite the hydrolocking incident, I was already planning to pull the motor...just not like this
as far as I recall we don't have the machinery for that on island. We'll definitely be checking the clearances and torque specs.
