15 years later, back in a CT9A!
This bugger, the fan control module.
Over the past month, it started to get a little weird and liked
to run a lot. Sometimes even in the morning whenever it was cold, I would turn my key to accessory, and it would run full speed, alternate down to low speed, cut off and back on again. So I replaced it yesterday, and all is well again!
This has also helped my idle quality improve, because the fan was running more than it should have been.
If it makes you feel any better you aren't alone.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ught-farm.html
I'm on my 4th right now.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ught-farm.html
I'm on my 4th right now.
If it makes you feel any better you aren't alone.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ught-farm.html
I'm on my 4th right now.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ught-farm.html
I'm on my 4th right now.
I looked at the STM OEM one, but it seemed expensive. Instead, I opted for the lifetime warranty one from O’Reilly auto parts. It looks mostly the same with the heat sink looking bits, but the extra connector on the side has two male leads in it. Hopefully it will serve me well.
thank you so much for linking your thread. Lots of great info in there.
I just read through your thread and you are about 10 times more intelligent than I am. 🤣 I wouldn’t know where to start taking one of them apart.
I looked at the STM OEM one, but it seemed expensive. Instead, I opted for the lifetime warranty one from O’Reilly auto parts. It looks mostly the same with the heat sink looking bits, but the extra connector on the side has two male leads in it. Hopefully it will serve me well.
thank you so much for linking your thread. Lots of great info in there.
I looked at the STM OEM one, but it seemed expensive. Instead, I opted for the lifetime warranty one from O’Reilly auto parts. It looks mostly the same with the heat sink looking bits, but the extra connector on the side has two male leads in it. Hopefully it will serve me well.
thank you so much for linking your thread. Lots of great info in there.
thanks but I'm just curious about how things work...or in this instance don't work. I'm pretty much in the same boat with the parts store repackaged module. I don't recall if it had a warranty or not, but if not I'll probably give the Nissan GTR module a shot like the folks in the thread were recommending.
Congrats on the clean find Noize! I couldn't agree with you more about taking out the cage for a street car, it's not safe without a helmet and takes up space in the cabin. Since you are already doing that, I would keep the car.
I think what you described earlier is very similar to how my mindset is for the evo, but everybody is different. I think a lot of people end up selling their evos because they actually set up the car wrong for their use case and don't want to go backwards to fix any regrets. I myself have done a lot of trial and error with different parts and configurations to find the place I like best. In my opinion, the fastest way to ruin a street evo that gets street driven 5+ times a week is to do the following compromising mods: A/C delete, radio delete, solid motor mounts, welding in a cage or roll bar, unsprung heavy clutch, installing seats that don't recline (pole positions), very big and laggy turbos, very big injectors, very big cams, stiff suspension, race brakes, too loud of an exhaust, and if in colder climates, a small battery. I have noticed that many of the younger evo guys make these mistakes on a street car and then sell the car thinking that they don't like it anymore, when in fact they ruined the car for themselves by building a track car instead of a street car. There is a HUGE difference between a track car and a street car and most of us need street cars.
I look forward to seeing what you do with this build!
I think what you described earlier is very similar to how my mindset is for the evo, but everybody is different. I think a lot of people end up selling their evos because they actually set up the car wrong for their use case and don't want to go backwards to fix any regrets. I myself have done a lot of trial and error with different parts and configurations to find the place I like best. In my opinion, the fastest way to ruin a street evo that gets street driven 5+ times a week is to do the following compromising mods: A/C delete, radio delete, solid motor mounts, welding in a cage or roll bar, unsprung heavy clutch, installing seats that don't recline (pole positions), very big and laggy turbos, very big injectors, very big cams, stiff suspension, race brakes, too loud of an exhaust, and if in colder climates, a small battery. I have noticed that many of the younger evo guys make these mistakes on a street car and then sell the car thinking that they don't like it anymore, when in fact they ruined the car for themselves by building a track car instead of a street car. There is a HUGE difference between a track car and a street car and most of us need street cars.
I look forward to seeing what you do with this build!
I’ll take an X over a super neutered 03 US spec car every time. I’ve had way more CZ4As than CT9As. VIIIs and IXs are pretty beat down now, unless they’re $45k plus. Nostalgia ain’t worth that kind of money to me.
Last edited by Noize; Jan 25, 2023 at 05:42 PM.
Everyday with an ACD, front limited slip, AYC, Mivec on both sides, and an undersquare engine.
I’ll take an X over a super neutered 03 US spec car every time. I’ve had way more CZ4As than CT9As. VIIIs and IXs are pretty beat down now, unless they’re $45k plus. Nostalgia ain’t worth that kind of money to me.
I’ll take an X over a super neutered 03 US spec car every time. I’ve had way more CZ4As than CT9As. VIIIs and IXs are pretty beat down now, unless they’re $45k plus. Nostalgia ain’t worth that kind of money to me.
Just want to add, I guess I was expecting a cool restoration thread to follow, thought you'd be doing diff work and other updates we could follow, then when I read this I was pretty bummed about that I guess lol










