Justinandcecil

Justinandcecil

Hey guys ! I'm sure you guys are thirsty for updates haha. Well the head removal was a success, I'll upload pics asap. Did not really have any major issues with removing it, was an acceptably straight forward task. Definitely worth it for someone who plans to be a DIY mechanic on a car that you've come to love(namely Mitsubishi Lancers) and plan to own one for the rest of your days lol...definitely nice to have something like this behind you

Justinandcecil

The old head bolts




Old head bolts




Old head bolts, ok so they look normal...all except one, notice below




Notice anything different about 1 of the bolts?




Here's a closer look, for some reason the threads of this one bolt is covered in a really thick milky substance...very interesting. And what is more is it literally stinks. I has a real stinky smell to it. Definitely smells like something different. Could be some kind of a sealant. But it's only on this one bolt, all other bolts are clean(only covered in oil of course)

Justinandcecil

Just some process pics




Here you can see what the alternator tensioner adjuster officially turned out to look like hehe. But anyway this pic shows how I'm trying/hoping/praying the timing doesn't get messed up. I used some paint to mark on the pulley and belt. I did this on the front side here and on the back also. So if the belt doesn't move, and the pulleys don't move, the timing should stay the same right?




Just some progress pics, and yes in case you're wondering...yes I do plan to remove the blue paint from the intake manifold before everything gets reassembled

CJBarker2

I don't know about a smell, maybe Crankswick can verify, but I know that when water meets oil, it makes a sludge that's about that color. My old Honda Accord had a coolant leak from a pinhole in the radiator, and when it splashed back on the motor from running down the road, it made that exact same color sludge. I would have gone back to check that spot for a crack somewhere, because IF it did crack on you, especially down in the threads of the bolt, changing the head gasket really won't do you any good at all. You'll have to replace the cylinder block or get it milled out, welded up, threaded, and pray to God that it holds. A block might be in your future, man. Junkyard will charge $70 for one, just to let you know. Man, I REALLY hope that that didn't happen to you. Maybe that's the one where the head gasket blew and the coolant leaked down into the threads. Still, man, I hope everything was fixed with the head gasket. I wonder if THAT's the reason you got the car so cheap. A little TLC and some busted knuckles will fix anything, though. Good luck, brother. Keep us posted. I kind of hope that this 3-man thread gets featured sometime. Really is a good learning curve you're having to work with.

Justinandcecil

Now remember guys this is the work of a first timer, and at this point in the process, I'm so excited and thrilled about what I'm seeing...wow I've never removed and engine head before lol. One thing I'm experiencing with this Lancer is there's a first time for everything, and, you learn something new everyday. Guess that's 2 things.

Justinandcecil

Just some progress pics, got it up on a slab of cardboard




Just some progress pics, the timing belt btw is secured with tape so it wont drop down, so at this point in the process everything should be intack as far as the timing. Am I right?

Justinandcecil

Hang on time!!! Haha joke




Got the paint marks also on the inside of the cam gear, also on the belt

Justinandcecil

Ok guys here's some pics of the situation




Only looks this bad because oil came off the head and got over and in everything

Justinandcecil

Looking forward to removing this paint




Everythings intack, and the bottom of the head is resting on a nice soft piece of cardboard. We'll get to that another day as far as cleaning and checking/inspecting the head, I've set it aside for now I'm focusing cleaning and preping the block and bolt holes. I'm using brake cleaner to remove all the oil from inside the wells and from the gasket area. And I'm using the blue scotch pad to gently clean the gasket area

Justinandcecil

Ok guys got to get ready for work so I'll post the results of the block clean and prep tomorrow. I already cleaned and preped the block and put a cover over it while I start to clean prep and inspect intake manifold and the head.

Justinandcecil

Guys thanks in advance for your comments and I will reply asap ok cheers!

CJBarker2

If you marked the timing on the belt at both ends and line it back up that way, then it should be fine; yes. If it drops down, though, it's easy to set again. All you have to do is remove the harmonic balancer with some patience and either a 7/8" socket or a 1/2"-drive breaker bar/ratchet at the pulley. The easiest way is to use a breaker bar, because you can pump the starter to get the bolt broken loose. Since you've got the belt off and the valves are drawn up, that wont do any harm. There is a small mark on the crankshaft timing gear as well as a line over the gear that is made into the block. Line these up and then look at the head. There is a small wedge in the head to the left of the cam gear. If you look, it is shiny and points to the cam gear. In the cam gear is a notch on the side of one of the teeth. Set the notch on the tip of that wedge/arrow that is on the head beside it. Timing on these engines is really easy. If they don't line up quite right, the cam gear bolt is a regular 17mm hex bolt. Count the teeth that are offset on the crank gear (if it is the trouble one) and set the cam gear very gently ahead or backward the same number of teeth. Mine was 4 teeth ahead on the crank, so I set the cam 4 teeth ahead.

NOTE: The harmonic balancer is marked for something that I believe is related to the timing, and its mark corresponds to a projecting piece on the lower timing cover. I have not looked into this, but I will see if I can find it for you and post it from the manual that I have.

Remember: this is all IF the belt gets moved around. If you can save the work by playing with it a while and working it back on from the side, then that is probably your safest bet. If not, just have patience and look carefully at your timing marks. Try not to gouge the belt with the edge of the cam gear, because if you damage it too badly, you'll have to remove the passenger-side motor mount to replace the belt. Using a bad belt on an interference engine like this (one where the valves and pistons occupy the same space at different times) can destroy your valvetrain and pistons---In short: EXPENSIVE, so don't risk it if you find a reason to doubt the belt's integrity.

Seriously, if you have access to a computer, I would get the manual off of the front page or wherever you can find it. That has saved me SOO much headache and heartache over the last few months. Good luck, man!

CJBarker2

I would spread some oil in the cylinders before I closed up shop for the day. I left my spare block out in the heat, covered up under a bag and a tarp, and I have to hone it now because it rusted around the top. Exposure to moisture will rust the cylinder walls pretty quickly. I hope that you can evade that.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

all 4 cyclinders on the same stroke? I don't think so...unless those are all EXACTLY half-way, lol...hard to tell from the pic...


hopefully, that's the case, and definitely coolant and oil make stinky chocolate milk...


pls verify those pistons are all crossing paths, and on different strokes, and just happened to be exactly the same depth in each cylinder...it looks weird. but definitely looks like the gasket is pooched..




edit*
also: I wouldn't fully trust that electrical tape in keeping enough tension on that belt to stay in-time. you've gone this far, re-install the belt and check timing properly, it'll save time and potential headaches.