Adjusted down to 34 with vacuum connected, pull vacuum and I get roughly 39~40 PSI. Interesting enough, it only caused a 1% change in STFT.

Still no trims after idle for 20 minutes... I don't know what to make of that.

 

No STFT or LTFT or both?

 

I checked the voltage at the pump cranking, and starting. I get solid 12v at start, then drops to 8.1v at idle. So I think the ECU circuit controlling highspeed/lowspeed mode is working.

I fixed the check valve connection to the valve cover, good to go, held on for a brief test tonight in boost, that ended up way lean.

I checked the spark plugs and they looked good, except the white inner tips are no longer white, they are orange. THese are the IGR7A-G gapped at .24... I went ahead and put my Denso IW24's back in. Gonna run a test there, and see if literally, the spark plug gap is what is causing this(very hesitant). Also, 2 of my spark plug boots that connect to the coil, are a little melted on the inside around the wire clip or coil in the well that connects to the spark plug. I cleaned them out, and cleaned them up, hopefully that isn't a big issue either...

I get STFT and 02 feedback, but no trims. Drove for an hour, and nothing. I played with Periphery and all the rear o2 stock tables as well as the tephra patch. No dice.

Also no boost, can't get below 12 AFR's no matter what. Correction, plenty of boost, NO FUEL. Whether I dial up the injectors latency, lower the size scaling, nothing. She wont go below 12. Played with MAF Adder too, no joy.

Nothing has changed since the other day, when it was almost dialed in, except for trying to squeeze gas mileage out.

What circuit are the trims on in the ECM? Any way to test if I dorked this unit too, since I dorked my last one with a similar short on the fuel circuit?

Almost ready to part out and just say **** it.

I just have a sneaky suspicion that Pin 39 is the culprit, and the fuel pump is no longer going over to high speed. I have tested the actuator in EVOScan, and can hear the fuel pump kick on when activated, just not sure if it is activating the 12v mode or 8v mode...? Don't know if what I see at start up represents that High SPeed is working under boost...

 

Bump for post 21, and /or edit of original post near the bottom.

 

So I may have found it. Since I am still running the EGR on my setup(Why...I am beginning to ask myself...) Either way, bottom side of the intake manifold, the black w/yellow markings hose fell off the EGR Vacuum regulator solenoid valve(the only one not zip tied under the hood.) Again, not sure if this is the problem child, but any thoughts? Ziptied it up, and will test in the A.M.

 

Bump for fix to post 23, as well as edit at the bottom of first post.

 

Ok, so been through the whole system again, looking for leaks. It looks as though my exhaust manifold gasket is leaking on the bottom side of the manifold/block connection. See some oil and carbon deposit on the block. Would this cause a Lean condition?

 

Any exhaust leak before front O2 sensor can make ECU think it needs more fuel.

Any exhaust leak before wideband O2 sensor can read lean.

Usually cold air causes lean AFR (not a lot, but more like 0.3 or so in my case) in open loop, and you can play with air density vs temp map to compensate it a bit, but not always easy because IAT sensor is kind of heated inside engine room, and aftermarket open-type air filters also sucks in heated air also. But if you change the value where your IAT reads, you can change the AFR.

I also experienced weak fuel pump can give about 1 AFR lean condition. I always thought fuel pump just dies before getting "a bit" weak, but it can also happen.

 

Understand that. Idle registers +/- 1.0 % on stft, trims still not working.
Cruise STFT registers +/- 2%, trims still not working.

OK. SOunds like the manifold gasket needs replaced then... Coincidently, there is no sound as to there being an exhaust leak. Car sounds great from an exhaust tone. I stuck a vacuum stethoscope under the manifold and heard nothing. Just see oil and carbon deposits.

Under hood temps register under 100 F with outside temps at roughly 32 F.
Can you give me table names for 94170715 ROM. I think I know which ones, but would like clarity.

Voltage at pump is spot on. 12v at startup, 8v shortly after.
Pressure reads 44 psi vacuum disco'd on AEM.FPR(Kelford 272 Cams) and 40 connected. Vaccuum on AEM.Boost gauge reads 12~14 ish at idle.
I can trigger the fuel pump while car is off, and hear it kick in to what I assume is high pressure mode via EVOScan

I relooked at logs, and it was running fine under conditions listed above, changed spark plugs like I said, and coincidently **** hit the fan. Then yesterday I found the vacuum leak on the egr, and fixed it hoping that was it... no dice. Can't figure out what the heck is going on.

 

It is called "Relative Air Density vs Temp for Airflow/Hz" table.

The stock value is ideal value for air, but I bumped a bit for colder air temp to make the AFR difference smaller.

When I was dealing with this weak pump problem, I was surprised it was responding to ECU changes like injector scale, but it always reads about 1 AFR leaner at WOT loggings, fuel pump swap corrected the problem right away, not sure it is your case though.

I saw LTFT is not moving when front oxygen sensor is dead, but the oxygen sensor was giving lower voltage even at rich condition. Denso aftermarket O2 sensor is pretty cheap like $35 or so, if you haven't changed it yet, I strongly recommend to change it, also in case you use Invidia O2 housing where O2 sensor position is different, this sensor has a bit longer wire so no need for extension.

Hope you can find solve the problem soon.

 

Do you by chance have the 94170715 addresses for the tables. I need to cross reference. That table by name given is not in my tuner def file. I'm sure it is in there, just under a different name. Need to cross check memory addresses.

EDIT: I think this is the one, let me know.




Thanks

 

Yes, that is it. Different naming and scaling, but address is correct, so it will work the same way.

 

Cool. So you suggest bumping up the lower temp fields? Alot, alittle, calculation?

 

I changed the value a bit to compensate part of AFR difference between summer and winter.

Difference itself is about 0.2~0.3 AFR, so mine probably compensates only about 0.1 AFR.

0.7 or more AFR change still sounds like weak pump or something else though.

 

Bump, update in bottom of Post 1.