Lets See Those Custom Parts v.2023
Sweet good to hear and to your point there is always the option of a shorter stud assuming the strength of the head is still there.
And all very true about the one size fits all. Especially when youre trying to maximize the setup. If you try to accommodate different things then there will be sacrifices. And fitment is all over the map. Even someone with same wheels and tires same suspension then you have things like ride height alignment etc. that will all come into play. So what is this talk about an SLA? You probably shouldnt have openened up your mouth bc that sounds all too interesting
Isnt the Koyo pretty thick? One thing to keep in mind when it comes to weights of radiators is you must factor in the volume as coolant/water adds weight too.
But Im also very interested in what LGTD finds as Im still somehow rockin my factory radiator so its only a matter of time until the end tanks start spewing green stuff
And all very true about the one size fits all. Especially when youre trying to maximize the setup. If you try to accommodate different things then there will be sacrifices. And fitment is all over the map. Even someone with same wheels and tires same suspension then you have things like ride height alignment etc. that will all come into play. So what is this talk about an SLA? You probably shouldnt have openened up your mouth bc that sounds all too interesting
Isnt the Koyo pretty thick? One thing to keep in mind when it comes to weights of radiators is you must factor in the volume as coolant/water adds weight too.
But Im also very interested in what LGTD finds as Im still somehow rockin my factory radiator so its only a matter of time until the end tanks start spewing green stuff
The thickness of the Koyo is exactly why I don't want it. I currently have an OEM replacement plastic tank CSF rad in the car now (the one that failed this past weekend), and the CSF stock size core kept water temps at or below 210* with 90* ambient temps. So I'm sure this model CSF will do just fine. And being all aluminum with the Evo 6 upper hose placement can only help temps.
The thickness of the Koyo is exactly why I don't want it. I currently have an OEM replacement plastic tank CSF rad in the car now (the one that failed this past weekend), and the CSF stock size core kept water temps at or below 210* with 90* ambient temps. So I'm sure this model CSF will do just fine. And being all aluminum with the Evo 6 upper hose placement can only help temps.
you got it boss!
The only downside is that I wouldn't be able to run it in SM. I may put it on my car for local testing and playing around with but the nature of the design means itll be easy for me to switch back and forth.
Ahhh ok then well very interesting. Im having a hard time picturing how you can integrate a Mac strut into an SLA setup but I'll leave that to you to figure out. Like where is the other A-arm even coming from? But hey keep doing your thing...
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,108
Likes: 316
From: Croatia
I'll give you the exact part nr that fits when I have it in my hands..
Connor called me back this morning. The rep at their distributor is working on getting the part number added (I guess even the distributor didn't have it in their catalogue). Then I/STM can order it. It is definitely available from CSF.
I liked my stock CSF temp wise but it is a bit more fragile then the Koyo/Mitsumoto units. I'd really like to relocate it under the rad support bar running across the top rather then behind it kinda like the CBRD car had done.
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,108
Likes: 316
From: Croatia
ok, here is the inner tie rod solution for those who want to run wide front arms and correct bumpsteer via a spherical rod end...
I found that the opel Antara / Chevrolet Captiva / EPICA inner tie rod has the end threads nedeed for evo 8/9, 16x1.5 and 14x1.5 on the outside. It is 340 mm long. Unfortunately the threaded part is not long enough so that you can shorten it and use with OE outer tie rod ends, but with standard female spherical rod end it will be perfect with minimal shortening..
par nr Lemforder 3803101, cost me something like 14 bucks, with our 25% tax..
To use spherical rod end on steering arm, the hole needs to be enlarged to 14 mm and spacers below made to suit the wanted bump steer characteristics..
full compatibility list (so that you find it easier in the US)
CHEVROLET :
CAPTIVA (C100, C140) info
LEXUS :
ES (ASV60_, AVV60_, GSV60_) info
250 (AVV60_, ASV60_) (135 kW ; 06/2012 - )
300h (ASV60_, AVV60_) (118 kW ; 06/2012 - )
350 (GSV60_) (204 kW ; 06/2012 - )
OPEL :
ANTARA info
TOYOTA :
AURION (_V5_) info
3.5 (GSV50) (200 kW ; 09/2011 - )
CAMRY Saloon (_V5_) info
2.0 (ACV51_) (109 kW ; 09/2011 - )
2.5 (ASV50_) (133 kW ; 09/2011 - )
3.5 (GSV50_) (204 kW ; 09/2011 - )
I found that the opel Antara / Chevrolet Captiva / EPICA inner tie rod has the end threads nedeed for evo 8/9, 16x1.5 and 14x1.5 on the outside. It is 340 mm long. Unfortunately the threaded part is not long enough so that you can shorten it and use with OE outer tie rod ends, but with standard female spherical rod end it will be perfect with minimal shortening..
par nr Lemforder 3803101, cost me something like 14 bucks, with our 25% tax..
To use spherical rod end on steering arm, the hole needs to be enlarged to 14 mm and spacers below made to suit the wanted bump steer characteristics..
full compatibility list (so that you find it easier in the US)
CHEVROLET :
CAPTIVA (C100, C140) info
LEXUS :
ES (ASV60_, AVV60_, GSV60_) info
250 (AVV60_, ASV60_) (135 kW ; 06/2012 - )
300h (ASV60_, AVV60_) (118 kW ; 06/2012 - )
350 (GSV60_) (204 kW ; 06/2012 - )
OPEL :
ANTARA info
TOYOTA :
AURION (_V5_) info
3.5 (GSV50) (200 kW ; 09/2011 - )
CAMRY Saloon (_V5_) info
2.0 (ACV51_) (109 kW ; 09/2011 - )
2.5 (ASV50_) (133 kW ; 09/2011 - )
3.5 (GSV50_) (204 kW ; 09/2011 - )
Last edited by kikiturbo; Apr 6, 2017 at 10:07 AM.
