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Well, If you can sell them that would be best, but to fit something like this you would need the following
A rear fender roll (tight)
A rear fender pull
Re-locate the rear bumper bolt
Change your front camber to -2.0
Change your rear camber to -2.0 max
Even after doing the above items, there is no guarantee that you will have a zero rub fit. As noted, +20 on a 9.5" wheels is super tough to fit correctly in the rear.
Again thanks for your help!
Ive spoke to a few people today, one bein driftworks and they told me the et20 is the only wheel that fits the evo and that i should get a 235/40/18 tyre instead of 255/35/18 and i also spoke to my mechanic and he said he will try some camber and cut the lip out in the fenders if i want.. how badly will the camber affect my car? And also i spotted this red evo 7 on the net and he has same wheels, offset, and even tyre size (just a different brand) and he states he has no rubbing issues with just a fender roll and "fast road geometry setup" .. why does it fit some but stick out so far on mine?? Arghhh
Yeah, fitment advice / opinion is all over the board. Some say, no rub at all except when I have people in the back seat. There is so much opinion & most is not too accurate
The advice to go to a stretch tire & adding in negative camber is a way to cheat-it, to get some level of fitment
+20 will never be a good setup for the track or hard driving, thats why we note it as a show type offset
Not sure where that comment came from about the +20 is the only offset that works on the EvO? Maybe due to the no front spacer needed?
When I get back to my home office Ill add a pic that shows how rear fitment is to look like after the rear fender treatment
Up front, you will be OK but will likely have some liner rub at lock positions
Yeah, fitment advice / opinion is all over the board. Some say, no rub at all except when I have people in the back seat. There is so much opinion & most is not too accurate
The advice to go to a stretch tire & adding in negative camber is a way to cheat-it, to get some level of fitment
+20 will never be a good setup for the track or hard driving, thats why we note it as a show type offset
Not sure where that comment came from about the +20 is the only offset that works on the EvO? Maybe due to the no front spacer needed?
When I get back to my home office Ill add a pic that shows how rear fitment is to look like after the rear fender treatment
Up front, you will be OK but will likely have some liner rub at lock positions
Ok i understand and am realising i made a bad choice!
And yeah i think they made that comment as its ment to clear the caliper but it doesnt clear mine!
And when you say up front i will be ok... it seems to me as if my fronts poke out more than the rears? And what would you say a good size in the rota grid is suppose to be then? As after all my research i stupidly got et20 18x9.5
Bare in mind thats a normal front wheel not a rota
Ok i understand and am realising i made a bad choice!
And yeah i think they made that comment as its ment to clear the caliper but it doesnt clear mine!
And when you say up front i will be ok... it seems to me as if my fronts poke out more than the rears? And what would you say a good size in the rota grid is suppose to be then? As after all my research i stupidly got et20 18x9.5 Bare in mind thats a normal front wheel not a rota
Front pokes out more?
Sorry, not trying to make you feel bad
The fronts, due to the fender blister, are a lot more forgiving than the rears. With -2.0 camber that will certainly get the wheel to float into the well better. I didnt realize that you were getting caliper rub (that cant be tolerated as you know). You would have to add a spacer. Hopefully a 5mm will do it? That now puts your wheel at a +15.
I run a Rota as well on the street (17x9.5 +30 P45R). The trick is the +30, but even at the offset I needed all that rear fender treatment I noted in my first post. I run a 275 wide tire. Always best to find a wheel that does not require a front spacer.
The best offsets for aggressive driving / track duty seem to be in the range of +28, which requires a lot of rear fender work, up to +38 which requires the least.
Look at this photo below. This is true rear fender clearance w/no rub. (rear strut has been removed to check for clearance). Approx 8 hours of professional rear fender work done!
The fronts, due to the fender blister, are a lot more forgiving than the rears. With -2.0 camber that will certainly get the wheel to float into the well better. I didnt realize that you were getting caliper rub (that cant be tolerated as you know). You would have to add a spacer. Hopefully a 5mm will do it? That now puts your wheel at a +15.
I run a Rota as well on the street (17x9.5 +30 P45R). The trick is the +30, but even at the offset I needed all that rear fender treatment I noted in my first post. I run a 275 wide tire. Always best to find a wheel that does not require a front spacer.
The best offsets for aggressive driving / track duty seem to be in the range of +28, which requires a lot of rear fender work, up to +38 which requires the least.
Look at this photo below. This is true rear fender clearance w/no rub. (rear strut has been removed to check for clearance). Approx 8 hours of professional rear fender work done!
Wow you are really low though.. i dont plan on running that low as its quite bumpy where i live and i do like to drive my car properly its not for show so i appreciate your honesty and help i no the truth hurts sometimes lol.
As for the caliper rub im confused as nobody with a et20 seems to get it, im going to shave the caliper as i dont want to add spacers and its minimal so i light shaving of the caliper shud do the trick but poke wise is where im stuck/lost!
So if i get a 235/40/18 tyre and run -2 camber aswell as roll my rear arches you still believe i will get issues? If so im selling the wheels!!(which doesnt look easy either as not many cars seem to be able to run et20!)
Wow you are really low though.. i dont plan on running that low as its quite bumpy where i live and i do like to drive my car properly its not for show so i appreciate your honesty and help i no the truth hurts sometimes lol.
As for the caliper rub im confused as nobody with a et20 seems to get it, im going to shave the caliper as i dont want to add spacers and its minimal so i light shaving of the caliper shud do the trick but poke wise is where im stuck/lost!
So if i get a 235/40/18 tyre and run -2 camber aswell as roll my rear arches you still believe i will get issues? If so im selling the wheels!!(which doesnt look easy either as not many cars seem to be able to run et20!)
Hi Andre
No, The EvO does not sit that way normally. The strut was removed & the sway bar disconnected to push the wheel into the well, to determine clearance
The one car that does better w/the +20 is the EVOX. Maybe you can sell them to an X owner?
This is how she sits w/the Rotas 17x9.5 +30 / Tires Federal 265/40's. Full rear clearance due to the roll, fender pull & camber at -1.8 degrees
No, The EvO does not sit that way normally. The strut was removed & the sway bar disconnected to push the wheel into the well, to determine clearance
The one car that does better w/the +20 is the EVOX. Maybe you can sell them to an X owner?
This is how she sits w/the Rotas 17x9.5 +30 / Tires Federal 265/40's. Full rear clearance due to the roll, fender pull & camber at -1.8 degrees
Your rear will need more than just a rear roll
Joe
Right i understand you now, i thought that looked extremly low haha.
Looks like you done the best possible to get them to fit good.
Did you need spacers upfront? Or is the p45r different to grid?
And every mechanic/panel beater im talking to is scared to touch it and all say i will distort the panels!
Right i understand you now, i thought that looked extremly low haha.
Looks like you done the best possible to get them to fit good.
Did you need spacers upfront? Or is the p45r different to grid?
And every mechanic/panel beater im talking to is scared to touch it and all say i will distort the panels!
Thats one of the reasons I went w/the P45's as no spacers are needed. Even my track Advan RGII 17x9 +29 doesnt need them.
Yeah, doing rear fender work w/most always leave permanent signs, especially when pulling is needed (Ive got the tell tale pull crease)
Fitting the wide rubber & aggressive wheels require the work
Thats one of the reasons I went w/the P45's as no spacers are needed. Even my track Advan RGII 17x9 +29 doesnt need them.
Yeah, doing rear fender work w/most always leave permanent signs, especially when pulling is needed (Ive got the tell tale pull crease)
Fitting the wide rubber & aggressive wheels require the work
Thanks for your help buddy you have helped alot and i think im going to just try and sell the wheels as the looks doesnt sound worth the trouble and i do not want a "show" car!
^^^Just to confirm we are looking at 17x9 +25 w/a 235/45 tire
yes, exactly
Originally Posted by MinusPrevious
Remember, the rear wheel pivots in an arch, but it looks close
What are your thoughts being that you have seen it first hand?
I think my car was originally lower sitting than most expected, amplifying the problem. I have mixed feelings about raising it some to help prevent it from touching.
I do have the megan racing coilovers, and the car is very stiff but I don't really know how much the suspension travels.
I am going to roll it and see how much that helps. I think that will solve the problem. As far as looks go, it was exactly what I was after. I do not think there is too much "stretch" to the tire - it looks fairly natural.
Jul 31, 2017, 10:29 AM
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and i do not want a "show" car!
