Yeah, it just goes to an open center diff. But its not like you completely lose rear drive.

 

It does act just like an open differential when the clutch packs are open though I dont know if their is any preload on them. Having take mine apart a few times, I dont think so.

The Viscous diff also act somewhat open till it get some slip. In my old autox talon it always felt pretty slow to repsond and wasnt till I had a good rear diff in that car that I felt it didnt matter. I think thats why the evo is fine with viscous center. Already has a decent front/rear diff so center is less worked.

Ive driven the evo with an early test ACD tune that didnt work and turned off the ACD. That being fully open was painfully obvious. One end would light up coming out of corners and rear was damn near uncontrollable with the TRE 12plate on exit.

 

yeah, the secret to ACD is that it reacts to steering input, among other things but it seems steering speed is one of the major influences... so it tends to react quite fast.. .doesnt wait for G sensors for it to act..

 

I just don't like contorting to reach the bolt LOL. I'm laying on my back...trying to avoid fluid while laying on a drip tray..
I'm kinda blind while attaching the line, if I remember right.
No fun.

I'll just skip the bolt. Not really needed anyway.

Re: ACD, I was skeptical of it. Only after getting it tuned, was I sold. If I could find a mechanical center diff that worked as well, or even close (not even sure it would matter at my skill level), I'd of course rather go that route. I also prefer simple.
But, man....does the car rotate nice and power-out well with a tuned ACD.

 

Here's a side view slowmo vid launch of my car. The front wheels spin about 1/2 rotation before the rear catches up. Wavetrac front, stock center, Shep 12 plate rear. I really like how it pulls through corners and I haven't noticed it having issues putting power to the ground, but I also have never driven a car with ACD so I don't have anything to compare it to. I've wondered if something like a Quaife center diff would make any significant improvements. But I think you're right, having good front and rear diffs can pick up some slack from the center diff.

Anyway, sorry for the thread derail...

 

I'm just jealous of how low your car is

 

Oh I'm all about that #stancenation lyfe lolol.... not

 

Looks great! I've been wanting to revisit my setup to see if I can drop the car a bit.
This picture says no...

 

That's an awesome shot! I've always wanted to drive MRLS.

I'm debating raising the car a hair. The only reason being that the tire rubs on the harness that's above it on the driver side. Before I resort to that I'm trying to figure out a way to raise the harness up to keep it out of the tire's reach.

 

My car looks downright silly. Huge gap at the front But I run softer springs, so I can't go too low. Not that I run MRLS all that often. It's fine for my "local" track.

 

FWIW, I tune my own acd, and I thought about making it pre-lock for launching. After talking to Jon at TRE, I decide against it to help the ring and pinion survive. You want the front to slip a little and ramp in the rear torque.

 

I'm also not a big fan of leaving out any tcase bolts. With the abuse I put the drivetrain through, it needs as much holding it together as possible.

 

You would hate being around our (my friends and I) track cars. 2/3 bolts holding on a distributor (three m10 bolts to keep a distributor on? Really?) because you can't easily get to the third, in a hurry..... three out of five engine mounts (Hondas pretty much never run the front, lower engine/trans mounts), A missing t-case bolt, etc. Most of our stuff is over-engineered, anyway. I've never seen a negative result from a missing t-case bolt (though I admit I've only been involved in Evos for seven years), but if I did, I'd start putting it back in.

 

We also leave the big bolt out haha. Never had an issue. Neither has any of the rally guys. Hardest part of doing the gearbox these days is taking all the stuff in the way out.

Regarding acd. Ive had mine go into fault mode from losing a wheel speed sensor and u notice it big time on track. I was losing 1 to 2 seconds a lap.

Ayoustin you can get that loom to pull a lil bit and tuck it up the side of the beam it runs along. We did it to mine. Ideally it should run inside the beam but ud have to de pin everythn

 

Awesome, I'll give that a shot. I've not looked at it much but hadn't really come up with any good ideas yet.