First, thanks to everyone who had constructive feedback on what I should do Especially my wife who didn't b1tch at all that my car was taking up the entire garage while it snowed Thanks babe

Ok, so for those of you who didn't read the other thread: I ported and polished my spare cylinder head. I then put everything back and the valves were on the opposite sides (intake valves on exhaust side, and vice-versa). So yeasterday, starting at noon, I began the complete teardown again. By midnight, I had vroom.

Not much in the way of pointers, other than make sure the valves are on the proper side and keep an eye on those freaking little spring retainer locks. Sheesh!! I lost one completely when it flew out of my oily fingers and I'll be buying a replacement at the dealership tomorrow when I go in for my recall repair. I just took one off of the stock head after looking for 40 minutes for the first one.
Putting your hands on the service manual will help a lot in terms of torque specs and a general idea of how things should go. It doesn't say a lot about all the miscellaneous bolts and wires connected to the head, though. Hardcoretuner's "install instructions" for the cam and gear are useful for figuring out where things are. Plus, if you don't have the patience to read this at least once through, you won't have the patience to do the swap Here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ht=cam+install
For the cam gear I actually cheated a little and used a piece of flat bar wedged in the cam gear to get it off of the head. I used my torque wrence and brute force


I would NOT make this your first project. Do the intake manifold install first. It's actaully more comlicated than the head because of all the hoses and wires for the fuel system and vacuum system. If you can do the IM swap successfully, and you have a couple days and a lot of patience, the you can do a head swap. The special tools that I used were my scan tool to diagnose a CEL that came on once the engine started and a big "C" clamp type valve spring compressor. I forgot to hook up one wire for the engine coolant temp gage. It also told me that I was idling properly and that my timing was in spec.
The spring compressor took a lot of modification because they're designed for V8's. I couldn't find the style pictured in the service manual, so I made due. I could not, under any circumstance, make the "corkscrew" style valve spring compressor work. So, everytime I want to change my valve springs I guess I'll be taking the head off

In terms of gains, that remains to be seen. I'll get it on the PDA dyno ASAP, but it's been snowing and cops are crawling all over, presumably to "help people". Initial butt dyno feels good. Prob another 10WHP, but we'll see.

 

hey great sounds good man, now ill have somebody i can pester when i begin this in a week or so. glad to know we are going to see results from the dyno too. do you have pics of how much your ported on teh inlets and outlets btw?

 

glad to hear its up and running man. hopefully this means even more gains once you get the fuel rail in

 

Mike: just a little less than I did to the IM- basically it's a gasket match. Most of the work was on the inside where you can't see. You should do some reading on short-side porting to get an idea of what to remove and where for the most improvement. The for the inlet and outlets is to make a nozzle that would look like this on the intake side > and the same on the outlet side > ..... The outlet side is not only more important (because this is where you'll be able to scavenge exhaust out of the cylinders and possibly create some vacuum to help suck the cylinders up) it's the harder side, too.
There won't be a lot of questions, I'm sure.... just a lot of spilled coolant. Keep a lot of kitty litter handy for the floor and a box of those "shop towels on a roll" handy for in-engine-bay cleanup.

******* I hate coolant... but I'll ask tomorrow when I go in for my fan controller fix how they go about draining the stuff without it going everywhere.


GP: can't wait for the rail

 

Congrats on completing this major modification.

I'm guessing that this will probably make you the "fastest NA lancer" but we'll wait to see what results you get once is it safe to do so.

WADAD

 

We'll have to wait until the drag strips open before I'll be able to claim that title without question, I would think. Not that I'm going for fastest 1/4 mile, but my goal of ***-kicking AX car would seem to include some pretty quick 1/4's too

I'd really like to get some cheap dyno and wideband time so I can properly tune my eManage.

 

what class are you shooting for?

edit: is there a class inbetween FSP and SM? just wondering b/c there is a lot of work you can do and keep you car n/a that is not listed in FSP.

 

That's want I LOVE about my AX club. We don't do the SCCA classes. So as long as I'm not on R compounds and don't go FI, I can race in Mid-Size Sedan forever But I think in SCCA I'd have to be like STX or STU since I did the head swap and I'm definietly doing cams.

 

yeah im trying to find out the max class you can go with out getting kicked into SM (dont wanna run with evos lol). I think im gonna stay n/a. Anywas sorry for the hijack and ot. glad you got it all working agian.

 

bump for results

 

Damn man! I haven't even had it running for 72 hours yet And we get this stuff called "cold" up here. It's almost 40 now with a low tonight in the 20s. It might be a week or more before I get a chance to drive it anywhere that's not a sheet of ice. Don't worry, unlike some people I ACTUALLY come back with results

03 I have a worksheet here from my local group to crossreference mod with class. I would actually be in.... let's see.... SP right now and the cam would make me SM. I guess I'd be buying some R-compounds, too, if I had to abide by these rules

 

ok ok sorry, jsut used to the 70+ weather lol. i was jsut trying to hurry you lol.

 

Quit your whining, it was 4 degrees here last night.

You did all the grinding yourself right? Did you use a die grinder? I'm just wondering if this is something I could do myself or if I'm going to need a shop to do it for me. Of course this will not be done with my stock engine, nor any time soon. I plan on buying another engine (maybe even a MIVEC engine) in the future and building that up. If I'm still in the area I'm going to get everything SWAIN coated as well.

Looking forward to hearing how things are going.

 

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/2341/pandp.htm
Pnp Cyl Head

http://vamp.darkravers.net/DIYPortPo...keManifold.cfm
PnP IM

Similar principle . . . there's another one w/ closer pics on the Pnp for the cyl head that was done by a 240sx owner on his ka24. Unfortunately, I can't find it.


www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm
I'm not sure if this is it . . . can't get to it.

 

Once you port and polish do you have to change your intake and exhaust valves because of the size difference?

Or am I totally stupid this morning (It is early and I don't know too much about P&P)

Congradulations though. Hope the dyno results make you a happy camper!