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Group Buy Dominick Irragi High Output Alternator for Evolutions

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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 01:10 AM
  #106  
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From: garden grove, ca
Originally Posted by YtDiamond05
Got mine tonight!
is it ups or fedex??
Old Nov 30, 2007 | 08:15 PM
  #107  
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From: AZ, currently in Space Coast, FL
He sent them out UPS
Old Nov 30, 2007 | 08:50 PM
  #108  
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From: garden grove, ca
Originally Posted by TempeRacerGuy
He sent them out UPS
k kool
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 12:32 PM
  #109  
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OK, just an update:

I wrote the how-to on making the battery wires, however my camera data cable is missing and I have to buy one tonight so I can upload the pictures.. (d'oh)

I am also half way through the alternator install and my god this is so much easier than people make it sound. The hardest part of the job is that you need to remove the accessory belt :-)

Here's a quick run down just so you know what to expect:

remove your negative from battery, discharge system with your headlights on
Remove you strut brace (6 nuts, 2 bolts)
unbolt your fuel rail and shove it to the side (2 bolts, remove 1 vacuum line)
unbolt your dip-stick guide and push to the side (1 bolt)
Jack the car up
remove your accessory belt (remove tension with a 1/2" breaker bar, then slide belt off)
remove through bolt from rear engine mount
Lower car down.
remove charging wire (one nut)
remove alternator harness connection
remove top alternator bolt
remove lower alternator bolt and nut
This is the point where I am now, and I am 34 minutes into the process with taking pictures each step, but I have to quit and get ready for a date tonight... sorry guys

Next steps:
Jack rear of engine up (to give access up top)
slide alternator out the top side of the engine
slide new alternator into the engine and bolt into place
Lower engine down
Jack car up
remove tension from accessory belt tensioner and slide belt onto alternator
connect your new power and ground cables (tomorrow I will give specs as to size and length)
connect rear motor mount
Lower car down
replace oil dip stick
replace fuel rail
replace strut bar
connect ground wire to battery

I feel that what's left is 1-2 hours work TOPS, so this is a 1.5-3 hour job to the normal tinkerer with hand tools. Those who are paying a mechanic with a lift 5 hours to replace your alternator are getting stuffed up the tail-pipe

Last edited by TempeRacerGuy; Dec 2, 2007 at 02:31 PM.
Old Dec 2, 2007 | 02:31 PM
  #110  
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Sorry guys, but I hit a snag.

The Iraggi alternator uses a smaller pully than factory, and I didn't think of this before-hand.

As it uses a smaller pully the factory belt cannot be re-used, because now the factory belt is too long. I would normally just go to the local shop and pick out a smaller belt, however it's started to rain, and my alternate transport is a sport-bike.

The steps I listed above still stand, however let me add a few "tweaks"

Unbolt the AC line stay and the power steering line stay. Unclip the main engine harness and move it aside. This will give you enough room so you can wiggle the old alternator out and the new alternator in from the top.

Other than that, this is truely a 3 hour job for anyone that is decent with tools.

Tomorrow on the way back from work, I will pick up a belt and post the part number.

I will post the lengths of the battery-alternator power wire, and the factory ground wire replacement, however the other ground wires will depend on where you have decide to bolt them to the chassis
Old Dec 2, 2007 | 06:10 PM
  #111  
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alternator

you can use the stock pulley from your alternator it will only change the output of the alternator at idle. That way you can use the stock belt and have nothing to worry about. It may not be 90 amps at idle but it will be plenty more than the stock alternator was making which i think was around 35 to 40 amps at idle. This new alternator would be probably at like 70 to 75 amps at idle instead of 90 with the stock pulley and belt.


I will be using the factory belt and pulley. I really did not need a 180 amp alternator So for me it is not going to make that much of a difference even if I lost 50 peak amps from the new one it would still leave me with 130 amps which is still alot more than the 90 I had stock.

Derek
Old Dec 2, 2007 | 06:19 PM
  #112  
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How is this sale going?
Old Dec 2, 2007 | 10:04 PM
  #113  
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From: garden grove, ca
Originally Posted by Derek Baker
you can use the stock pulley from your alternator it will only change the output of the alternator at idle. That way you can use the stock belt and have nothing to worry about. It may not be 90 amps at idle but it will be plenty more than the stock alternator was making which i think was around 35 to 40 amps at idle. This new alternator would be probably at like 70 to 75 amps at idle instead of 90 with the stock pulley and belt.


I will be using the factory belt and pulley. I really did not need a 180 amp alternator So for me it is not going to make that much of a difference even if I lost 50 peak amps from the new one it would still leave me with 130 amps which is still alot more than the 90 I had stock.

Derek
Just throwing this out there how come nobody uses a light weight alternator pulley from Unorthodox Racing ???
Old Dec 3, 2007 | 04:47 PM
  #114  
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^^^^^^ That sounds like a good idea I have never thought about it
Old Dec 3, 2007 | 04:52 PM
  #115  
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From: garden grove, ca
Originally Posted by Derek Baker
^^^^^^ That sounds like a good idea I have never thought about it
yeah i just thought about it last night im probably going to order one and install it when the alternator comes
Old Dec 3, 2007 | 06:02 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by evo ippo
yeah i just thought about it last night im probably going to order one and install it when the alternator comes
Would you mind posting a link to the website where we can order?
Old Dec 3, 2007 | 06:09 PM
  #117  
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From: garden grove, ca
pm me i can get the alternator pulley and the water pump pulley for you for a pretty good price
Old Dec 6, 2007 | 07:38 PM
  #118  
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Are you still going to post pics of the install?
Old Dec 7, 2007 | 04:57 PM
  #119  
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Sorry guys.

I just got my internet back up last night, and I have been SWAMPED with work. I still don't have a camera cable, I will try to get one tomorrow night.

I cannot believe how easy this was. It really is as simple as the steps I listed. The hardest part was routing the new belt through the accessories :-)

I would suggest against swapping the pully. Only because this alternator was designed to spin at a certain rate, otherwise why did the designer change the pully in the first place, and underdriving the pully will put it in a range it was not designed for.

The replacement belt was only $19.95 at advanced auto, and it's a 69.5" long and is a 6 rib belt, so I don't see what the big deal is replacing it.

you will need to figure a positive battery cable connection yourself. This is pretty easy to do if you have aftermarket terminal adapters like I do. If you try to use the stock ones, you may be making a headache for yourself.

I will post what I have when I can. Sorry but it has been maddening here, this all has happened in the past 10 days...

buying a house
finding a mortgage
salary negotiation and signing on perminantly with my company
fired 2 employees
hired 3 employees
hiring a moving company to get my stuff in AZ
installing a new software and hardware system.
training exsisting employees on the new system, and the new employees on Everything

Oh and my condo association complained because my hood wasn't latched on my Evo for the past week...
Old Dec 7, 2007 | 05:03 PM
  #120  
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Just wanted to say thanks for organizing this.

I received the two 180 amp alternators I ordered earlier this week. Both look excellent.

Thanks again.



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