Please see attached photos below of my rotors after 1 track day using a medium Hawk HP Compound. I bedded the pads 2 months ago, using 20 mph - 0 braking and increased speed and pressures up to about 60 mph about 20 times. The rub marks on the rotors appears rust in color. I had complete brake failure after about 5 laps at PIR on Friday with ambient air temps around 50 degrees F. After a few laps the brakes started fading badly, until the pedal would hit the carpet and I'd have to pump them about 4 times to get anything. A few of us determined it was probably boiling fluid, but this is what my right rotor looked like after taking the wheel off. (The photos were also taken the next day after a 150 mile drive on the freeway home.) After the brakes cooled after a session, they'd work fine again for a lap or two then fade would return. We could not figure out however, what was going on on the rotor with the photos attached. I'm going down again in May and I do not want another track day ruined by brakes.


I flushed the brake fluid today, and reseated all the pads

 

Did you put the rotors on backwards? The curved vanes will not deliver air if they are pointing forward

 

they way i am looking at it they are not pointing forward

 

What brake fluid are you using? Do you have any brake cooling? It sounds like you need it.

That "rust" colored stuff on your rotor is pad deposit material. From my experience, overheated pads generally deteriorate pretty quickly and can leave those type of marks on the rotors. Hawk HP+ pads are really more of a street pad. They can't handle the heat of a high hp heavy evo on the track for repeated high speed stops. You should really step up to a race pad.

 

I'm thinking Marksae has it.

that is pad transfer in a big way. the hp pad is not meant for lapping sessions. from the looks of it you will need a track pad. with that much transfer I'm surprised you don't feel wheel wobble.

part of it may be your style of braking. because I know some people who can make it lapping with a stock pad. they don't like it but it can be done.


personally I like the hawk 70. run with no cooling, but no left foot braking or long brake applications.



I was at pir last weekend. everyone talks about the new track layout. all I could tell that was going to make a difference was the big parking lot two corners before the back straight. during a race all kinds of havoc is going to happen there. viewing that corner will be the best ticket in the house.


then after the second session my boost was sneaking away and I didn't notice. the turbo was coming loose from the mainfold. I was thinking, man that car is fast, as he blew by me on the straight.

 

The internal vents are shaped in the other direction from the slots, so I assumed that was the important part vs. the direction of the vanes.


I was running factory fluid, last night I put in AP Racing 600 DOT 4.

 

Looks to me like you heated the pads, boiled the fluid and left pad on the rotors as well.

Step up to a better pad, flush the fluid and put in some Motul 600 with a full flush and get back out there.

Good luck.

 

oops. repost

 

all i can say is the your rotors are installed incorrectly, meaning that the vains face the wrong way, not that this would make your brake fail or pads heat up and melt onto the rotors as it looks to me happened. , but i would start with perhaps light resurface on rotors, and flip them over, change pads, fluid, make sure your caliper pistons are not frozen.

 

there installed correctly.!

 

I'm looking at my installation sheet right now for the Works 2-piece rotors and those are installed incorrectly.

 

Yours came with sheets? Mine came with nothing but rotors in the box, I was wondering about that... I keep hoping the Works crew will show up sooner or later on this thread.

 

im guessing later not sooner are you looking at going with a different pad now?

 

Yeah, the hawks are going in the garbage as soon as a replacement is selected. I want to try the Ferodo DS-3000's but they're $550 a full set. I've been reading up on other options, I just don't want brake failure ever again.

 

I've heard mixed reviews about the DS3000s, especially if you use them in front. I currently use them in the rear and PF97s in front. That combo works.. I've also used Hawk DTC60s and DTC70s. A lot of our local fast guys run Rayestos ST43s and love their performance and long life. The Raybestos and Hawk DTCs are also quite a bit cheaper than $550/set. raceshopper.com gives the best brake prices.