Park the car on a smooth safe surface. Use vehicle hoist or floor jack, raise the onto jack stands. NEVER WORK UNDER THE CAR SUPPORTED BY A JACK ONLY.





Disconnect the endlinks use 14mm wrench.



Remove swaybar bushing brackets then remove the sway bar.





Grease bushings using supplied grease and place them on the swaybar.





Install the new swaybar.Connect the endlink first but not tight. Install bushing brackets around bushings and secure bar to the chassis. Tighten bolts to(Perrin site) 24ft-lbs.

When bar is mounted move the bar up and down to make sure grease lubricates entire bushing.

Tighten endlink to 24ft-lbs. Re-check all connections.



Lower the car.

Test drive slowly. If there is any new noises (i.e. clunks, squeaks, etc.) Re-check entire installation. Enjoy but be safe.

Some info are from Perrin site.

 

I disagree.

When you don't have adjustable end-links, you should put the end-links on and then lower the car back to the ground BEFORE you tighten the brackets that hold the bar to the chassis, even if it is awkward to do. This way, you will not have a pre-load on the bar.

 

can we verify this. i wonder why perrin and others has a different installation.

 

Very few people seem to think of this issue. For example, how many sets of instructions for installing coilovers remind you to disconnect both swaybars before you set the heights? Only when you reach the level of corner-balancing do people suddenly realize that this kind of thing must be done with the swaybars disconnected ... that reconnecting the swaybars is always the very last step in setting a suspension and it must -(OK, should)- be done in a way that doesn't cause a pre-load on either bar. A pre-loaded swaybar ruins the whole point of corner-balancing. The only time that you want a pre-loaded swaybar is roundy-round racing.

 

right now what i can do is loosen the bracket then re-thighten it. i hope can fit underneath.

 

Yep. You're lucky because this is the rear and it's easy. The front is a biot... er, much more difficult job. Need a pit or wheel-lift just to set adjustable end-links. I don't see how you can guarantee no pre-load in the front using the loosen-and-tighten-the-brackets approach.

 

car likes G37 & and M3 is PITA even rear.

 

Just curious, but how will the bar get preloaded assuming the lengths of each end link are the same? The bar is able to rotate in the bushing even when tightened, right?

 

you are incorrect actually. if you don't have adjustable end links, tightening the bar to the chassis last will still result in preload if the sides are uneven heights. there are only two ways to eliminate preload in the bar. 1) made ride heights exactly the same on both sides, or 2) adjust the length of the adjustable endlink to dial out the preload in the bar.


you are correct in saying the bars need to be disconnected to set ride height on adjustable coilovers, but if you don't have adjustable endlinks it wont make a difference. if they aren't adjustable, then just do the corner balance with the bars attached so you know exactly what the corner weights are when the car will be driven. if you disconnect them, then after you do the corner balance you have to preload the bar to get it reattached, your nice corner balance is now out of whack (unless the sides are the same height, thus no preload in the bar).

 

the preload comes from the two sides of the car being different heights. this means one suspension side might be shorter then the other. then the end links will be at different heights relative to where the bar wants to be. so when you go to put the endlinks in the bar, the first will go on easy as the bar will rotate in the bushings to fit the end link. the second side might need the bar to be pushed up or down slightly to allow the endlink bolt to go through the bar. this is the preload, when you have uneven endlink heights. the adjustable endlinks allow you to adjust the length so that when you attach the bar, no matter how different your side to side height is, you can lengthen/shorten the endlinks to attach to the bar without any force (zero preload).

 

I get the purpose of the adjustable end links. But, why does it matter if you tighten the sway bar to the chassis when it is jacked up or lowered to the ground? I guess that was my question specifically.

 

^ I think there will always be a preload no matter what. Thanks Kevin.

 

I recently did mine with coilover install. I removed the stocker, installed my whiteline bar without connecting the end links, set the ride height, crawled under the car and connected the endlinks. There is enough room in tge rear to do it this way without jacking up the car. We will see if the stock endlinks hold up, and if I can avoid as much preload as possible when doing the front.

 

While I should admit before anything else that I haven't done a bar on an Evo X, all other cars that I've worked on have had enough slop in the brackets to use the "don't tighten until on the ground" method to remove any preload when you don't have adjustable end-links. In fact, many brackets have slotted holes for exactly this reason.

 

Because how much a wheel droops when unloaded is not a good indicator of where it will be when the car is on the ground. The goal is to have no pre-load at static ride height, not to avoid pre-load at full droop.