Tuning shops in the Round Rock, Texas area or Austin, Texas area
Tuning shops in the Round Rock, Texas area or Austin, Texas area
Hello,
does anyone know of any tuning shops in the Austin Texas area, or Round Rock Texas area? It would really help if the shop is familiar with Evos.
I am having problems with "blown spark". I have a 2005 MR with an ATP turbo kit and the usual suspects: injectors, exhaust, boost control, Utec e.t.c. I am still running the stock cams and stock ignition. I'm running 26 ibs of boost with straight 104 unleaded. I got the car tuned and it was running excellent. I then decided to change the Spark plugs and Plug wires and that is when the problems began. I got Magneco wires and Iridium plugs (one step colder). The car runs great but when I get into it, the "Check Engine Light" flashes a couple of times at around 4500 to 5000 rpms. I regapped the plugs to ".026" and put back the stock plug wires, and it fixed the problem for a little while. However, the car started having the same problems again. I then changed the Spark Plugs and put back the stockers. This fixed the problem again temporarily. However the problem started again later on. It's driving me nuts!!
Has anyone else had this problem? What plugs, plug-gap, and Spark Plug wires would you guys recommend? Do I need to upgrade the ignition?
Thanks for your help and advice.
does anyone know of any tuning shops in the Austin Texas area, or Round Rock Texas area? It would really help if the shop is familiar with Evos.
I am having problems with "blown spark". I have a 2005 MR with an ATP turbo kit and the usual suspects: injectors, exhaust, boost control, Utec e.t.c. I am still running the stock cams and stock ignition. I'm running 26 ibs of boost with straight 104 unleaded. I got the car tuned and it was running excellent. I then decided to change the Spark plugs and Plug wires and that is when the problems began. I got Magneco wires and Iridium plugs (one step colder). The car runs great but when I get into it, the "Check Engine Light" flashes a couple of times at around 4500 to 5000 rpms. I regapped the plugs to ".026" and put back the stock plug wires, and it fixed the problem for a little while. However, the car started having the same problems again. I then changed the Spark Plugs and put back the stockers. This fixed the problem again temporarily. However the problem started again later on. It's driving me nuts!!
Has anyone else had this problem? What plugs, plug-gap, and Spark Plug wires would you guys recommend? Do I need to upgrade the ignition?
Thanks for your help and advice.
Use the regional forums! You're more likely to get an answer and those of us thousands of miles away from Texas don't have to hear about it
Your other questions would probably be best answered in another area of the forum as well.
Your other questions would probably be best answered in another area of the forum as well.
Last edited by Ike; Jan 22, 2006 at 10:46 PM.
use the stock plug wires, then get copper NGK BPR8ES gapped to .024-.026.
Also, it's strange to have an upgraded turbo, upgraded injectors, and UTEC, yet still have stock cams. Where did you get that crazy idea? =P
Also, it's strange to have an upgraded turbo, upgraded injectors, and UTEC, yet still have stock cams. Where did you get that crazy idea? =P
Originally Posted by Batmann!
Hello,
does anyone know of any tuning shops in the Austin Texas area, or Round Rock Texas area? It would really help if the shop is familiar with Evos.
I am having problems with "blown spark". I have a 2005 MR with an ATP turbo kit and the usual suspects: injectors, exhaust, boost control, Utec e.t.c. I am still running the stock cams and stock ignition. I'm running 26 ibs of boost with straight 104 unleaded. I got the car tuned and it was running excellent. I then decided to change the Spark plugs and Plug wires and that is when the problems began. I got Magneco wires and Iridium plugs (one step colder). The car runs great but when I get into it, the "Check Engine Light" flashes a couple of times at around 4500 to 5000 rpms. I regapped the plugs to ".026" and put back the stock plug wires, and it fixed the problem for a little while. However, the car started having the same problems again. I then changed the Spark Plugs and put back the stockers. This fixed the problem again temporarily. However the problem started again later on. It's driving me nuts!!
Has anyone else had this problem? What plugs, plug-gap, and Spark Plug wires would you guys recommend? Do I need to upgrade the ignition?
Thanks for your help and advice.
does anyone know of any tuning shops in the Austin Texas area, or Round Rock Texas area? It would really help if the shop is familiar with Evos.
I am having problems with "blown spark". I have a 2005 MR with an ATP turbo kit and the usual suspects: injectors, exhaust, boost control, Utec e.t.c. I am still running the stock cams and stock ignition. I'm running 26 ibs of boost with straight 104 unleaded. I got the car tuned and it was running excellent. I then decided to change the Spark plugs and Plug wires and that is when the problems began. I got Magneco wires and Iridium plugs (one step colder). The car runs great but when I get into it, the "Check Engine Light" flashes a couple of times at around 4500 to 5000 rpms. I regapped the plugs to ".026" and put back the stock plug wires, and it fixed the problem for a little while. However, the car started having the same problems again. I then changed the Spark Plugs and put back the stockers. This fixed the problem again temporarily. However the problem started again later on. It's driving me nuts!!
Has anyone else had this problem? What plugs, plug-gap, and Spark Plug wires would you guys recommend? Do I need to upgrade the ignition?
Thanks for your help and advice.
Spark plug gap: 0.7 - 0.8 mm (0.028 - 0.031 inch)
Install the spark plugs and tighten to 18.4 ft-lb.
stock plug wires
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Originally Posted by Batmann!
... how do I locate the "regional forum"?
Originally Posted by Batmann!
...Don't laugh, but what does "BPR8ES" mean?
Originally Posted by Batmann!
...thanks for the "regional" link.
What is the difference between "NGK BR8EIX" and "NGK BPR8ES"?
What is the difference between "NGK BR8EIX" and "NGK BPR8ES"?
br8eix = iridium
the copper one is cheaper and gets fouled more easily
iridium last longer
At a buck fifty a plug, who cares if they get fouled up easily, I run them, and I replace them about every other oil change, and I haven't looked back...Little piece of mind knowing you have brand new plugs in there IMO.
MZM is pretty much the only tuner anybody goes to here in austin. www.mzmperformance.com
Don't know if Mo has any experiece with the UTEC at all though, but it's worth a shot. Its down howard lane across the street from the FedEX spot.
Don't know if Mo has any experiece with the UTEC at all though, but it's worth a shot. Its down howard lane across the street from the FedEX spot.


