So anyone know if I should even flush and bleed if I am only changing the pads and not the lines?

 

you'll need to flush them eventually
why not just do it now while you're at it?

 

Ferodo DS2500
by far the best.

 

Yes, I've already gone over this. OEM fluid is good for ~2 years and your car is older than that.

A complete flush should cost you under $20 if you do it yourself. A 1L can of ATE Super Blue is enough to do your brakes and clutch, then all you need is a 10mm wrench, a 11mm wrench, a clear plastic hose, an empty bottle, and a friend to help.

 

cause its $450 of my blood and tears LOL

 

No offense, but if you can't afford routine maintenance then maybe an Evo isn't the car for you. If money is that tight, just do the job yourself; it can easily be done with a very basic set of tools.

 

lol...im just be cheap, I'll pay whatever it takes to get the car running.

It's just a double fail for me that the brakes needs to be replaced at the sametime...I guess it could be good or bad.

 

lol dude we gave you suggestions. could have gone with the cheaper option of the stop techs and the flush is like 80 bucks..so it's not that bad..

pimp yourself out for extra cash

 

uhh... Ivan charges the same price, regardless of fluid (5.1 vs rbf600) Hell I got 660 for $22 a pop.

 

Does that include fluid tho?

 

Not gonna get into a pricing argument. But 5.1 is considerably less than rbf

 

Fine $4 less per bottle from Chris are u back in town yet?

 

Yup, came back late last night. Tired as **** lol

 

Fluid and pads go hand-in-hand, its like changing your oil filter at the same time as your oil.

A complete set of good pads will be $100-300 and 1L of fluid will be $10-100. Pick the ones that best fit your needs and go from there. If your car is nothing more than a street car and you want to keep costs down then do some decent ceramic pads with generic DOT4 fluid from any parts store. If you want something that exceeds stock and is great for aggressive street driving then do some Stoptech or RacingBrake ET500 pads with ATE or Amsoil DOT4 fluid. If you want a hardcore billy-badass track setup that screeches like a banshee on the street then do some expensive tracks pads and Motul fluid.

You'll notice, each step you go up gets more expensive with a larger gap than the previous.

P.S. Don't forget you'll also want to buy new rotors, get your current ones resurfaced, or at the minimum give your current ones some light sanding to remove existing pad transfer. You can do without, but run the risk of the new pads not bedding-in properly.